Hi, I recently just bought an 09' Infiniti G37x sedan. I have two key fobs, one to use as a backup, and both of them are having problems to unlock the car. The one that I am currently using unlocks the passenger side doors, but not the drivers side doors. The backup one won't even unlock any of the doors to the vehicle. When I push the button to unlock the drivers side, I can hear a faint clicking within the door, as if it's trying to unlock it. I'm wondering if this could be a problem with the key fobs (such as maybe needing new batteries) or if it could be a problem within the car itself. Any help would be appreciated.

 

^^^^

New batteries would be the place to start.
If you have a multimeter you can check the voltage on the existing batteries

 

Do the power doorlocks lock/unlock properly from within the car?

If the lock is attempting to unlock, then it's not a fob issue. You probably need a new driverside actuator.

 

Yeah, it won't unlock from inside the car either on the drivers side for both the front and rear door, which leads me to believe it's an issue with the actuator. Does anyone know if only one actuator controls both the front and rear door or if there are separate actuators for front and rear?

 

Each lock has its own actuator/motor in each door. If you're hearing a mechanical like sound then the switch is command the computer to unlock.

Just so we're clear, the entire driver side does not unlock but the passenger (front and rear) does?

Are you able to work the lock mechanism manually from inside the car?

Does the key work on the driver door lock cylinder?

Generally I'd expect the driver side front door lock to fail first. I have my car set to unlock/lock all the doors any time the button is pressed, so all locks get equal wear. Suppose it is possible for both driver side (front/rear) locks to fail at the same time.

With respect to your backup remote, that may actually have a dead battery.

 

1. Yes, the entire driver side (front and rear) doesn't unlock.

2. From inside of the car, the unlock button in the car doesn't work for the driver side doors (front and rear). But the lock button inside the car does actually work for the driver side front door, but not the back door.

3. The actual hard metal key does work to unlock the doors on the driver's side. That's how I've been able to get into my vehicle when it's locked for the time being.

As you can see I seem to be getting varied type of results which further leads me to believe it's a problem within the doors (such as the actuator). And I agree that my backup remote may need new batteries since that isn't even working to lock the doors.

 

It kind of sounds like a wiring issue to me. It would be VERY odd to have two actuators fail at the same time and on the same side.

The BCM processes the signals and controls the actuators (per DLK-11). DLK-18 lists:
BCM connectors M119 (Front Driver Side: terminal 8 & 9 of BCM; Rear Left Hand: Terminal 8 & 10 of BCM)

See DLK-71 and DLK-73

PER FSM DLK-73
1. Disconnect BCM connector.
2. Check continuity between BCM harness connector and front door lock assembly (driver side) harness connector.
- Continuity should exist when testing the wiring harness to the actuator
3. Check continuity between BCM harness connector and ground.(M119 Connector, pins 8 & 9)
- Continuity should NOT exist when testing the BCM connector (M119 Connector, pins 8 & 9)

FSM says if both tests pass, then it is a BCM issue, otherwise it is a harness issues (or actutator, but unlikely)

See also BCS-72