Been getting a slight vibration around 60-65mph since I have installed my new wheels. Alignment done, balance done, tires good, wheels are spot on. Couldn't figure it out until we took a look at the Hub Rings. The wheels have a bore of 67.1, ours are 66.1, so I am going to order better ones. Hopefully that will fix the vibration.

 

Any updates e3?

 

Just got the new hub rings, I was told to clean the rotor and make sure I put the rings on first then the wheels.



I put some anti seize since rings tends to get stuck


Going to go for a test drive and buy some gas....wish me luck

 

Given that you're having problems, if I were you, I'd have taken a wire brush to those hubs.

 

+1 on what vqsmile said.

I hope this resolves your problem with the highway vibrations.

 

Alrighty, I am glad to say that the vibration has significantly improved. If riding with stock wheels is a 10, I would say its about a 9. Of course with 19 inch wheels and thinner tires, it will never ride as well with stock tires.

 

I am getting a very slight vibration around around 60-65mph, but I feel that coming from stock wheels to aftermarket of course the ride is not going to be as smooth. It could be all in my head but will riding with a slight vibration going to cause any problems in the long run?

 

You see that blue dot on one of your studs? Its significant. When you mount your wheel, situate the valve stem at that stud, or as close to it as possible. You don't want the blue dot wheel stud at 12:00 and the valve stem at 3:00. Make sense?

Also, if you are using a locking security lug nut, consider removing it for testing purposes and test drive with 5 regular nuts. Good luck.

 

Not sure if serious.

 

You feel the vibration through the steering wheel or the entire car? Try polyurethane hub rings maybe?

 

Serious. And if OP isn't having them road-force balanced, he is spinning his wheels.

Remove tires from wheels, remove all counterweights. High speed spin each wheel and find the out of round. High speed is 135 MPH. EVERY wheel has an out of round, even fancy expensive aftermarket. This out of round is indicated by a small dab of paint on OEM wheels, believe mine were blue. Mark each wheel. Remount tire, inflate & high speed spin. They will be out of balance as every tire also is out of round. Instead of arbitrarily adding counterweight to compensate, the tech will then deflate and rotate tire on wheel in correlation to mentioned out of round dot. Reinflate and respin, likely this will take a few tries. Once completed you will find wheel/tire is balanced with much less pound on or stick on wheel weights. The goal is to find the sweet spot between an out of round tire and an out of round wheel.

On my last set of tires on my G35, no wheel had counterweights. On my BMW, only 1 wheel has a counterweight, the smallest size.

Ask about indexing the tires. If they look at you with a blank stare, you are at the wrong shop. Indexing is removing rubber from the tire. Shaving off a highspot, usually where the each end of the rubber meet. (your tread is one long piece of rubber that is attached end-to-end) Its called runout. A road-force balancer will detect runout. It must be road-force. A common spinning balancer will not. Rubber can be shaved from the outside. If the issue is on the outside sidewall, they can shave from the inside the tire. Hope this makes sense, but a knowledgeable tire shop can do this. A not so knowledgeable tire shop will keep hammering weights onto the wheel and tell you its good.

Most Porsche owners manuals mention aligning the valve stem with the painted dot on the wheel stud.

 

Also most brand new tires have index marks for mounting them too~Here's a cut & paste from Tirerack~

Original Equipment (OE) tire suppliers are required to mark the tire's "high point" while OE wheel manufacturers mark the wheel's "low point." This helps the vehicle manufacturer match mount combinations that maximize new car ride quality while reducing the amount of balancing weight.

Today, many vehicle manufacturers specify the use of a temporary tag applied to tires and wheels that are removed before the vehicle is put into service. Unfortunately, this means that there are no permanent marks to reference later.
There was a time when the valve stem hole on standard wheels indicated the optimum place to which the tire should be match mounted. However, with the advent of styled, steel wheels and aluminum alloy wheels, the stem position evolved into an aesthetic issue rather than being a uniformity indicator. Add to this the probability of wheels retaining their original runout after thousands of miles of use and you can understand that simply mounting the tire so the colored dot is at the valve stem is no longer required practice.
We have found that the only way to accurately match mount replacement tires on used original or new aftermarket wheels is to use Hunter tire balancers which have the ability to measure wheel runout and tire force variations under load before the tire and wheel are installed on the vehicle. Using these machines, a colored dot might be positioned anywhere on the wheel relative to each wheel's runout measurement. In the end, the markers have little, if any, relevance when replacement tires are installed.

 

Road force balance is my next move, I have new hub rings in and will try them out. The last shop I had balanced my wheels was very reputable, they work on a lot of performance cars. They also stated they might have to index the tires, but did not mention any shaving. They were able to balance out the wheels but using weights. Hell they didn't even charge me for the balance because they felt bad the vibration was still there. I will try out the new rings then look for a good shop to road force balance. Thanks.

 

I will not be able to try different nuts since I am using Gorilla lugs, ofcours the OEM ones wont fit. Interesting concept with the valve stems and stud, I will have to try that out, Thanks.