G37 Sedan

'09 G37x - no start, LOW oil p0340 - HELP

Old Jul 11, 2017 | 11:54 PM
  #46  
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sal81
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Originally Posted by David Cruz
So I was driving on the highway when all of a sudden my car stalled. After numerous attempts of trying to restart it just would not turn over, only sputtering a few times. Immediately I'm thinking fuel pump. No clanking, no smoke, no loss of performance throughout the other 300 miles I had already driven to that point. I checked my oil and it wasn't marking. I had a friend meet with some oil thinking there was some kind of safety mechanism on the vehicle to keep the engine from getting damaged. Added almost 3 full quarts of oil, attempted to start it again. Same result. Got the car towed 45 miles home to the tune of $213.
Woke up the next day, read some forums and came up with many different scenarios. Checked the battery 1st, fully charged. Checked the fuel pump fuse, completely fine. Pulled out the back seat and headed for the fuel pump. Turned the push button start to the on position and heard the fuel pump making the priming noise fine as well. Next I went to AutoZone and borrowed the fuel pressure guage tool and hooked that up to it. Attempted to turn over the vehicle again, no marking showing any pressure getting through on the guage. So my question is, can the fuel pump still be my problem even though it seems it is priming correctly?

Let me take you back even further than that...
I bought the car back in March of this year. After a couple of weeks I started to notice a small puff of smoke from the exhaust upon start up and took it to Infiniti immediately. After their diagnosis, they determined the car had a sludged engine and needed to be replaced. Tried to hit me for 6700 for a used engine or 11000 for a new one. I told them i had no performance issues, no irregularities, no knocking, no nothing. Then they go on to tell me that another person brought the same car to that same dealership a year before and they told them the same thing. They couldn't believe it was still going. I decided to go with a couple of mechanic buddies of mine and add a cleanser. This I did twice after about 1000 miles and the car has been fine. I figured my problems were solved. Not the case anymore. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT I CAN DO AT THIS POINT????? I'M at a huge loss right now.
Not a car guy but I will do my best to explain what happened to me. Sounds a very similar. It took four months to get my issue resolved. Car actually started but only with one of the CAM sensors disconnected. When connected, engine would turn, but never start. It is a safety mechanism. Turns out back plate leaked oil, causing damage to a device that uses oil pressure to "retard the timing" at high RPM to provide more air to pistons. Fixed oil leak and that device. Still no start. Timing chain waa fully stretched and skipped a tooth. Replaced that. Still no go. Finally discovered sprocket also needed to be replaced. Apparently, mechanic thought it was fine until he saw what it was supposed to look like... In other words the damage was obscure. Once he replaced the sprocket, I can honestly say my car never ran better.bettter. He only charged my $5,000..was the only one determined to identify and resolve problem. Two places before simply told me I needed a new engine.

I hope this helps. To bad I later totaled the car in a head on collision on an expressway with a drink driver going the wrong direction. Lol.
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Old Jul 13, 2017 | 12:40 PM
  #47  
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Long oil change probably contributed to the issue. The valvetrains in these cars have some tiny passages that need a consistent supply of clean oil to do things like adjust variable camshaft timing and tension the timing chain. Clog a passage with sludge, run low on oil, or let your oil go so long it's out of spec and there are a lot of potential problems that can occur

As for oil changes in these cars, there are several synthetics that can go 10, 15, 20k miles under the right conditions, but i suspect given how much the VQ shears oil, that the proper conditions don't exist in our engines for such an extended run. I would hesitate to take a synthetic past 7500 without a lab confirming the oil was still serviceable and in grade

Last edited by Victory; Jul 13, 2017 at 12:47 PM.
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