Scored a set of Eibach sway bars for 276. Sweet! Do I really need to lower the exhaust rear section? I guess I'll do everything when I'm under there doing the rear Camber arms.

 

Yes, but just a little bit. Unbolt the hangers from the frame and let the cans rest on something. But hey, take that with a grain of salt, since all I did was watch my mechanic install them.

That's a good deal, IMO. Nice find. I'm assuming it comes with the bushings, right? And you're going to have to buy yourself some pre-lube for those bushings. You can get a small tub of ES Pre-lube through Amazon on the cheap, and that should last you forever.

 

The front I got used with brackets and bushings for 100 from a "yard" down south. The rear I just ordered new from the TireRack for 176 and free shipping. Was going to get some silicone grease from Autozone or Advance Auto to install them. No good idea?

 

A lot of good info on here.. Answered a few questions I had anyways.

 

So, thoughts on the TWM STS after 3 days of seat time

Why TWM? I’ve done a fair amount of research on STS here and on the370Z, and TWM always popped to the top of the list: made in Canada (I have a thing about COO), one piece, well documented install directions and positive reviews.

While I was browsing the TWM site there was a offer to submit your email and get 20% off 1 item. Having just got my annual bonus, decided to go for it. I had the STS within a week, packed all nice and tight, with detailed instructions for both the 370Z and G37.

The Install. I tackled this by myself with the supplied instructions, and the DIY on the 370 forum. Google it.

Cliff notes: Everything under the car sucks. Especially trying to get the dust cover on the bottom of the shifter, where you need to stretch it into this 1/8” groove. It’s rough finished aluminum, and gloves don’t give enough tactical feel, so expect a knuckle buster. I bleed enough to need bandaids and duct tape. It took me 4 hours. But I also walked an electrician through a home improvement project, and had a plumber in to unclog a HVAC drain line. Figure 2.5 hours if you were focused, 2 if you didn’t drink a bunch of beer.

What’s it like? I’ve had 3 previous cars with STS, a 1994 Trans Am with a Hurst 5.0, 2004 Mazda 6s with the Mazdaspeed STS, and a 2010 Subaru Legacy with the optional factory STI unit. The TWM provides a similar experience—shorter throws, with firmer stops and overall action.

My first thought was that I couldn’t possibly be in 1st. It was too short. Pulling my car out—I had backed in so I could jack the car up on ramps—something was wrong. Going from N to 1st was too short. But it worked

The factory shifter is actually pretty short, but the TWM is like wrist flicking. And the factory unit has a lot of mush. When you push it into gear, there is a softness. A give in the action. The TWM feels like hitting a brick wall by comparison.

I had to adjust the way I drove. Driving slow or fast, you’re cutting the gear engagement distance by a 1/3.

Another byproduct is less shifter vibration. A lot less. The whole mechanism just seems more direct. I was running through some back road corners running 5-7400 rpm in 2nd, and getting totally out of the throttle at almost redline transmitted significantly less vibration through the shifter.

What’s wrong? The physical height reduction is only f ½” but it seems shorter. I don’t think the shifter looks right, and the boot definitely has excess material, but that's not unexpected.

What I specifically don’t like, is resting my hand on the shifter in 4th, puts my wrist on the shifter surround.

One last thing. That firmness. The shifter is advertised at 1/3” shorter throws, and it seems like it takes 1/3 more effort. That might or might not be good. If you think of the 6MT as a luxury car, you might not like it. If you think of the 6MT as a Japanese muscle car, you’ll probably love it. I'm going to love it, because I lean to the latter perspective on the car, but not until I get the boot and **** sorted out.

 

Excellent commentary, Lego.

The shortened height is something I'm very interested in knowing what you do about it.

Grok.

I had a Hurst Competition shifter & linkage in my '82 Trans/Am 30 years ago. And I had a STS mod in the cable shifter linkage on my '03 Maxima. IMO, it's just better. Can't fully explain why, it just is.

 

Have an offer out on the table with a local guy that has some G37 19" Anniversary Wheels. He has three rear wheels 9 inch width and three front wheels 8.5inch width. Currently has 2 rears and 2 fronts on his maxima.

I am offering my G35 Coupe Sport rims (staggered) on 245/45/18's all around in trade +400 cash on top. He's going to give me all 6 wheels as he needs them gone..

I think this is a really great deal except I'm concerned about two things..

1. Rolling Diameter for my X.
His wheels - 225/45/19 Fronts - 245/40/19 Rears (I think that falls within one percent rolling diameter but hoping someone can confirm)

2. I have an Akebono BBK that I will be rebuilding/finishing and installing in the future.. I am assuming (I shouldn't) that these will clear them just fine.

I plan to purchase a 4th Rear wheel to make a complete squared set and change all the tires to the same. I'll likely do this in the spring. I could always also get a 4th front wheel too and sell that as a set too.

 

Y/N on "3.7"? May have goofed on placement

 

I vote no. If I had a Q50, I'd probably debadge that on Day One.

 

Like the Horse said one day to the other Horse"Naayy".

 

No, because every time I see a caddy with 3.6 on the side I can't help but laugh.

 

3.7 announces to the world that you're too big for FI, and too small to be a V8.

Not that there aren't exceptions. It's more of a general guideline than a rule, LOL.

 

For an X I'd just run 245/40/19s all around, that small 1/2" stagger won't effect rolling diameter, a better option that running those staggered tire sizes.

 

"The world" meaning the microcosm of car nerds?

Kinda dislike the "3.7" more than I like it, just wanted to try something different, might try Skyline badging next. Think this fender emblem from the r34 GT would look neat

 

The 3.7 badge in gunmetal (to match yer rims) or black (stealth mode) would look better. I think the chrome just sticks out a little too much...