Sedan Chat Thread
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From: Katy (close to Houston)
Well my front passenger side rotor runoff is bad causing alot of jitter/shutter and rather than resurfacing I fig now would be a great time to invest in slotted/drilled rotors...biggest question is what pads have you guys been using that's not causing any noise (squealing, screeching, etc, and 2 that are low dust? Thanks
Well my front passenger side rotor runoff is bad causing alot of jitter/shutter and rather than resurfacing I fig now would be a great time to invest in slotted/drilled rotors...biggest question is what pads have you guys been using that's not causing any noise (squealing, screeching, etc, and 2 that are low dust? Thanks
Will be doing slotted/drilled rotors, stoptech SS lines, and the one kit I am looking at they do offer it to come with the POSI quiet performance pads
Will be doing slotted/drilled rotors, stoptech SS lines, and the one kit I am looking at they do offer it to come with the POSI quiet performance pads
i went with slotted rotors I felt like the drilled and slotted were kinda overkill considering I wasn't really tracking the car much
but I went with the posiquiet pads or what ever they are called
but I went with the posiquiet pads or what ever they are called
to each their own....I've read 1000's feedback that drilled could potentially crack after use or long periods on track use and Ive read ppl who've had them for 100k miles with 0 issues. Bottom line is my car is a DD, that I track 2-4 times a year in the quarter only. The slotted/drilled option was more for show imo with the use I will get out of them.
However, after reading more about the stoptech SS lines and crappy routing option or lack there of...I believe I am wanting to go with the Goodridge SS kit and maintain the same oem mounting
However, after reading more about the stoptech SS lines and crappy routing option or lack there of...I believe I am wanting to go with the Goodridge SS kit and maintain the same oem mounting
to each their own....I've read 1000's feedback that drilled could potentially crack after use or long periods on track use and Ive read ppl who've had them for 100k miles with 0 issues. Bottom line is my car is a DD, that I track 2-4 times a year in the quarter only. The slotted/drilled option was more for show imo with the use I will get out of them.
However, after reading more about the stoptech SS lines and crappy routing option or lack there of...I believe I am wanting to go with the Goodridge SS kit and maintain the same oem mounting
However, after reading more about the stoptech SS lines and crappy routing option or lack there of...I believe I am wanting to go with the Goodridge SS kit and maintain the same oem mounting

Drilled rotors have less surface area because they have a bunch of holes drilled in them.
Less surface area = less area for the pad to contact = less friction = increased stopping distances
Drilled rotors have less mass because they have a bunch of holes drilled in them.
Less mass = greater heat retention = increased fade
Blanks or slotted are your best bets, but it's your car.
It's not just the propensity to crack

Drilled rotors have less surface area because they have a bunch of holes drilled in them.
Less surface area = less area for the pad to contact = less friction = increased stopping distances
Drilled rotors have less mass because they have a bunch of holes drilled in them.
Less mass = greater heat retention = increased fade
Blanks or slotted are your best bets, but it's your car.
It's not just the propensity to crack 
Drilled rotors have less surface area because they have a bunch of holes drilled in them.
Less surface area = less area for the pad to contact = less friction = increased stopping distances
Drilled rotors have less mass because they have a bunch of holes drilled in them.
Less mass = greater heat retention = increased fade
Blanks or slotted are your best bets, but it's your car.

Drilled rotors have less surface area because they have a bunch of holes drilled in them.
Less surface area = less area for the pad to contact = less friction = increased stopping distances
Drilled rotors have less mass because they have a bunch of holes drilled in them.
Less mass = greater heat retention = increased fade
Blanks or slotted are your best bets, but it's your car.
New to the site!
Hey all! New to the site, just got my (new to me) 2011 G37x. Got it as a CPO, 55k, navigation. Can't get enough of it. Spent the last two days looking through the site for what to do to it! Paddle shifters up first for sure.
So is there a fine line between when slotted is worse than full faced? With slotted, you have less weight, and less surface area too. I guess there's a point where the added benefits of of heat dissipation from the slots are counter productive. It is for heat dissipation that we have slotted rotors right?
I'm a fan of blanks, personally, but slotted are fine, and don't have the disadvantages of drilled.
I'm having the same problem with my stock rotors although I've read they are prone to warping. My gas pedal vibrates after I hit a certain speed. I think I'm going to go with some slotted rotors. Also what are some low dust pads? The ones im running now dust like crazy and that reverse squeal is annoying.
I think you've got this part of it wrong Lego_maniac "Less mass = greater heat retention = increased fade" drilled rotors help the heat and gasses escape which means less brake fade. Unless I didn't read this right and you were referring to stock rotors.
Advantages of Cross Drilling or Slotting Rotors
Drilled Brake Rotors - HowStuffWorks
Advantages of Cross Drilling or Slotting Rotors
Drilled Brake Rotors - HowStuffWorks
I think you've got this part of it wrong Lego_maniac "Less mass = greater heat retention = increased fade" drilled rotors help the heat and gasses escape which means less brake fade. Unless I didn't read this right and you were referring to stock rotors.
Advantages of Cross Drilling or Slotting Rotors
Drilled Brake Rotors - HowStuffWorks
Advantages of Cross Drilling or Slotting Rotors
Drilled Brake Rotors - HowStuffWorks
1) Create friction with the pads
2) Absorb heat created by #1
3) Cool down
Drilled rotors are bad at 1 and 2. While they might cool better than blanks, they need to, because they are going to be hotter since they have less mass to absorb the heat created by the pad contact during braking.
Brake cooling ducts--like are available for the 370--would do more for cooling than drilling holes in your rotor.








