Sedan Chat Thread
One approach that seems most common is to jam a screwdriver into the vents in the rotor, so that it jams up against the caliper when you torque down. Another is a 3 foot section of 2x4, at a 45* angle crossing the hub between the studs. Torque down every *other* stud, and that gets you a star pattern. I'm not sure which is worse: lateral stress on the studs with the wood, or stress against the caliper with the cotter-pin approach. (maybe the wrong word). Which would you do?
I've always done the final torqueing on the ground so the tire didn't move...but I've never worked on a RWD before, and I've never worked with spacers.
I am having trouble determining what Rochester is trying to do and having trouble doing. Is it putting a wheel on the hub/rotor and tightening lug nuts on the lugs?
Can anyone elaborate to me why it must be torqued down while suspended? I can't relate at all to this as I've never tried to change a wheel on a G37 (or other RWD vehicle before) so please educate me...what sort of issues am I going to face one day?
I am having trouble determining what Rochester is trying to do and having trouble doing. Is it putting a wheel on the hub/rotor and tightening lug nuts on the lugs?
Can anyone elaborate to me why it must be torqued down while suspended? I can't relate at all to this as I've never tried to change a wheel on a G37 (or other RWD vehicle before) so please educate me...what sort of issues am I going to face one day?
I've always done the final torqueing on the ground so the tire didn't move...but I've never worked on a RWD before, and I've never worked with spacers.
I am having trouble determining what Rochester is trying to do and having trouble doing. Is it putting a wheel on the hub/rotor and tightening lug nuts on the lugs?
Can anyone elaborate to me why it must be torqued down while suspended? I can't relate at all to this as I've never tried to change a wheel on a G37 (or other RWD vehicle before) so please educate me...what sort of issues am I going to face one day?
I am having trouble determining what Rochester is trying to do and having trouble doing. Is it putting a wheel on the hub/rotor and tightening lug nuts on the lugs?
Can anyone elaborate to me why it must be torqued down while suspended? I can't relate at all to this as I've never tried to change a wheel on a G37 (or other RWD vehicle before) so please educate me...what sort of issues am I going to face one day?
- My car is lowered on Swift Springs.
- I'm using the OEM duckfeet as winter wheels w/snow tires.
- The negative camber is perfect for my Vossens, but tucks the duckfeet to silly proportions.
- I bought 15mm wheel spacer adapters to poke the duckfeet back out 15mm. Just for winter.
- The adapters have 5 shorty nuts for the OEM lugs.
- In order to torque them down, the hub has to be locked. Somehow.
- This is problematic for the front wheels, which turn freely.
That's my story.
Yes, final torque when the wheel is slightly down. Then again when the corner has full weight (because ****). Then again in a few days (because super ****). Then again every so often as a spot-check, because paranoid freak.
At work we use a screw driver like device and put it in between the vents. It doesn't do any damage to the rotors or the calipers. In fact that's how I did it when I installed my spacers. We've been doing it at the plant for over 25 years so unless you unleash your inner Hulk I think you'll be alright.
Just tried that, and it works pretty good. I'll probably bend the screwdriver.

Still need the wifey to come home so I can hit up the auto-store for the socket.
I think this explains everything. You're first mounting the spacer to the hub...then mounting the wheel to the spacer. If so, I think I totally understand your issue.
I for some reason envisioned the stock lugs poking through the spacer and being long enough.
Am I right?
I for some reason envisioned the stock lugs poking through the spacer and being long enough.
Am I right?
Wait, if I jam a screw-driver into the rotor vents, extended at 4:00, with a lengthwise 2x4 piece underneath to catch the end of the screwdriver so it can't rotate past 6:00... Just tried that, and it works pretty good. I'll probably bend the screwdriver.
Still need the wifey to come home so I can hit up the auto-store for the socket.
Still need the wifey to come home so I can hit up the auto-store for the socket.
I just take my floor jack handle, place it between two of the studs on the spacer, and let the ground hold the end of the handle. That has been working for me when I don't have someone to hold the brakes.
I think this explains everything. You're first mounting the spacer to the hub...then mounting the wheel to the spacer. If so, I think I totally understand your issue.
I for some reason envisioned the stock lugs poking through the spacer and being long enough.
Am I right?
I for some reason envisioned the stock lugs poking through the spacer and being long enough.
Am I right?
I'm back now from SEARS, and I've got the driver's side done. I have to say, the duckfeet look pretty darn good lowered and poked 15mm.

That's one spacer design, yes; where you have extended lugs. These aren't those, they're adapters, where the OEM lugs poke through one set of holes, and a new set of lugs are attached to the spacer. See the pic below, and it will make sense.
I'm back now from SEARS, and I've got the driver's side done. I have to say, the duckfeet look pretty darn good lowered and poked 15mm.

I'm back now from SEARS, and I've got the driver's side done. I have to say, the duckfeet look pretty darn good lowered and poked 15mm.


That's one spacer design, yes; where you have extended lugs. These aren't those, they're adapters, where the OEM lugs poke through one set of holes, and a new set of lugs are attached to the spacer. See the pic below, and it will make sense.
I'm back now from SEARS, and I've got the driver's side done. I have to say, the duckfeet look pretty darn good lowered and poked 15mm.

I'm back now from SEARS, and I've got the driver's side done. I have to say, the duckfeet look pretty darn good lowered and poked 15mm.


Last edited by Mik3G37S; Nov 11, 2014 at 09:27 PM.








