Sedan Chat Thread
Oh I thought the G37S had different sways than a regular rwd G37.
I did, too. Until I sold my Sport sways to Brad, and he measured them against his identical Journey sways, then assessed the total absence of changes after installation.
Oops.
It seems the "sport tuned" suspension on the RWD Sedan Sport Package is simply a different set of struts. (Granted, the close-ratio steering, VLSD and BBK are welcome upgrades, but still...)
Oops.It seems the "sport tuned" suspension on the RWD Sedan Sport Package is simply a different set of struts. (Granted, the close-ratio steering, VLSD and BBK are welcome upgrades, but still...)
Last edited by Rochester; Aug 9, 2014 at 11:08 AM.
I did, too. Until I sold my Sport sways to Brad, and he measured them against his identical Journey sways, then assessed the total absence of changes after installation.
Oops.
It seems the "sport tuned" suspension on the RWD Sedan Sport Package is simply a different set of struts. (Granted, the close-ratio steering, VLSD and BBK are welcome upgrades, but still...)
Oops.It seems the "sport tuned" suspension on the RWD Sedan Sport Package is simply a different set of struts. (Granted, the close-ratio steering, VLSD and BBK are welcome upgrades, but still...)
Operation Koni + Swife Installation = complete
I started at about 11, and I finished at 6. Yeah, 7 hours. But I had several interruptions, my sister-in-law and her 3 kids, my father/mother in-law and a surprise visit from the sheriff
That 7 hour total does at least include getting the car jacked up and cleaning up everything and putting my tools away
I could do it a lot faster if I was doing it again.
Anyway, no real problems. The bolt that everyone seems to have problems with only caused me issues on the passenger side. I supported the A-Arm with my jack on the driver side--other wise you're just torquing the suspension down--and it came right off. Not on the passenger side. Used a 6 point wrench and a dead blow hammer. Problem solved. You probably don't want to do this job with 12 point sockets/wrenches, 6 points are a must.
I drove a couple laps around my neighborhood and was pleased. No squeaks or any bad noises. Feels tight. Driving impressions tomorrow. Because inlaws.
I started at about 11, and I finished at 6. Yeah, 7 hours. But I had several interruptions, my sister-in-law and her 3 kids, my father/mother in-law and a surprise visit from the sheriff

That 7 hour total does at least include getting the car jacked up and cleaning up everything and putting my tools away

I could do it a lot faster if I was doing it again.
Anyway, no real problems. The bolt that everyone seems to have problems with only caused me issues on the passenger side. I supported the A-Arm with my jack on the driver side--other wise you're just torquing the suspension down--and it came right off. Not on the passenger side. Used a 6 point wrench and a dead blow hammer. Problem solved. You probably don't want to do this job with 12 point sockets/wrenches, 6 points are a must.
I drove a couple laps around my neighborhood and was pleased. No squeaks or any bad noises. Feels tight. Driving impressions tomorrow. Because inlaws.
After a few months, I've got all kinds of creaks and groans when moving the car around the driveway and low speed over gutters and whatnot. It's annoying, but I'm accepting it until the day comes the entire suspension is swapped for CO's. Couple of years, at least.
So... alignment, then spacers?
Here's a question my wee little brain can't process: when dropped, is the camber spec affected by how much sidewall is available to the tire? In other words, when dropped on OEM 18's, could the camber potentially be more in line with specs than if it were dropped with the identical hardware, but on 19's or 20's?
My rears are at -2.1* and -2.2*. I wonder if Lego will fair better?
My rears are at -2.1* and -2.2*. I wonder if Lego will fair better?
Here's a question my wee little brain can't process: when dropped, is the camber spec affected by how much sidewall is available to the tire? In other words, when dropped on OEM 18's, could the camber potentially be more in line with specs than if it were dropped with the identical hardware, but on 19's or 20's?
My rears are at -2.1* and -2.2*. I wonder if Lego will fair better?
My rears are at -2.1* and -2.2*. I wonder if Lego will fair better?
I believe it won't matter if you have the same hardware or not. correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure if you modify anything in the suspension (lowering/raising) that it will still affect the camber and toe. Rim diameter shouldn't make anything any different as long as the tire/rim combo overall diameter is the same or close to stock. Now, width of the rim will however affect it as you will have more or less area to touch the ground with.I hope you understand what I mean.

BTW, AroundTheG37... are you considering that ES bushing mod to lift the rears back up 1/2", or have you finally come to peace with the setup? Every now and then, I look at the rears and think I should do that. CO's are still 3 years out on my schedule.



Just wrote up a quick review in my progress thread.





