Sedan Chat Thread
Yep. Which, are already "sport tuned" (FWIW) on the RWD G37S. I don't know what else can account for the huge difference in ride and handling between the 6MT and the non-Sport. AFAIK, the springs and swaybars are the same on the RWD Sport and the RWD non-Sport. Besides, the struts have less than 18,000 miles on them, so there's years of life left, regardless of the new springs.
Putting shorter springs on the OEM struts, particularly linear springs like the swifts are, will accelerate wear on your Struts. You'll be fine for quite a while, but I would guess that you'll be replacing the struts in the next couple years. Maybe longer given how little you drive your car.
I recognize that the speed and decision to this mod are atypical, and that buying lowering springs goes against just about everything I've ever said about lowering the car... but you have to admit I've done a pretty good job of justifiable rationalization.
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 153
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From: Staten Island
Finally got the axle done last Friday, car feels way better now.
Still feel a little hesitation 80 and up like the car is sluggish..
i know i shouldn't be driving that fast anyway but still.
Saw a nice looking white G37xS on 280 in jersey yesterday it was lowered on stock wheels.
it looked good.
Still feel a little hesitation 80 and up like the car is sluggish..
i know i shouldn't be driving that fast anyway but still.
Saw a nice looking white G37xS on 280 in jersey yesterday it was lowered on stock wheels.
it looked good.
Yes sir, I would agree. If I'm driving on average 5k to 6k miles per year, this shouldn't be an issue (knock on wood) for at least 3 to 4 more years, if that. And that dovetails back into my original (albeit somewhat loose) plans, which is to get coilovers in 2018... to ride out the last couple years of total ownership.
I recognize that the speed and decision to this mod are atypical, and that buying lowering springs goes against just about everything I've ever said about lowering the car... but you have to admit I've done a pretty good job of justifiable rationalization.
I recognize that the speed and decision to this mod are atypical, and that buying lowering springs goes against just about everything I've ever said about lowering the car... but you have to admit I've done a pretty good job of justifiable rationalization.
Got some stuff Done today. Got my Stillen Front tow hook License plate holder, Paddle shifters and M45 Sport ****. Stillen tow hook was $85 shipped from ebay and the other two from James at OC Infiniti. Was too excited to have all three items arrive on the same day and i just went to installing all 3. Also got really lucky which i will explain at the end.
The **** was simple, but i didn't cut in new grooves for the lock and just happy to replace my old one. I won't be pulling up on the **** so i left the lock pin handy if i decide to lock it in. But for some reason i couldn't reinstall the shift boot onto the aluminum ring under the ****.
The paddle shifters were quite to easy to install except for getting that low column part out and then at the end when you have to realign all the corners. Haven't taken it for a test drive yet but i am thrilled.
The Stillen tow hook came with a silver extension for those who had a different hook thread so i had to use it for my 08 Sedan. It does stick out from the bumper by 1-2" and would have been happier if it was flush or less then 1" from the bumper. But i guess it might be a good thing in case someone accidently bumps into my front bumper and it can take the hit i suppose. Also, when tighting it, at the last turn to tighten, it is leaning slightly to the right , if i try to center it, it becomes loose.
Just wanted to share what i had done and quite happy with the results.
P.S. Lucky part. So the Paddle shifters came without any bolts or washers to install the shifters on each side. I needed two bolts and two washers. I was a bit upset now that i had to go buy some from a local shop. But since i installed my stillen bracket already (which has 4 bolts, and 4 washers) and used only two for the top of the plate. I figured i would try those bolts on the paddle shifters and they fit like a glove! I was ecstatic!!! I was just too happy to find two different sized bolts that worked on a part i just so happened to have. Pics are below.
The **** was simple, but i didn't cut in new grooves for the lock and just happy to replace my old one. I won't be pulling up on the **** so i left the lock pin handy if i decide to lock it in. But for some reason i couldn't reinstall the shift boot onto the aluminum ring under the ****.
The paddle shifters were quite to easy to install except for getting that low column part out and then at the end when you have to realign all the corners. Haven't taken it for a test drive yet but i am thrilled.
The Stillen tow hook came with a silver extension for those who had a different hook thread so i had to use it for my 08 Sedan. It does stick out from the bumper by 1-2" and would have been happier if it was flush or less then 1" from the bumper. But i guess it might be a good thing in case someone accidently bumps into my front bumper and it can take the hit i suppose. Also, when tighting it, at the last turn to tighten, it is leaning slightly to the right , if i try to center it, it becomes loose.
Just wanted to share what i had done and quite happy with the results.
P.S. Lucky part. So the Paddle shifters came without any bolts or washers to install the shifters on each side. I needed two bolts and two washers. I was a bit upset now that i had to go buy some from a local shop. But since i installed my stillen bracket already (which has 4 bolts, and 4 washers) and used only two for the top of the plate. I figured i would try those bolts on the paddle shifters and they fit like a glove! I was ecstatic!!! I was just too happy to find two different sized bolts that worked on a part i just so happened to have. Pics are below.
The **** was simple, but i didn't cut in new grooves for the lock and just happy to replace my old one. I won't be pulling up on the **** so i left the lock pin handy if i decide to lock it in. But for some reason i couldn't reinstall the shift boot onto the aluminum ring under the ****.
I wasn't going to cut grooves either then I realized in the off chance I was doing some aggressive driving and the angle wasn't quite right I may have popped the **** off so I grabbed the dremel, cut the grooves and locked it in.
ETA - Looking good, always fun when parts come in isn't it?
You may have taken a little too much apart there. When I swapped mine out I was able to pull the aluminum ring down off the existing **** then snap it back on. When I Restitched the shift boot I had to cut the zip tie and remove the boot from the ring then reapply a zip tie to get it all back together and snap it back on. I can't see exactly what you have going on there but I know there was no way I could get the zip tie to stretch enough to use the original one.
I wasn't going to cut grooves either then I realized in the off chance I was doing some aggressive driving and the angle wasn't quite right I may have popped the **** off so I grabbed the dremel, cut the grooves and locked it in.
ETA - Looking good, always fun when parts come in isn't it?
I wasn't going to cut grooves either then I realized in the off chance I was doing some aggressive driving and the angle wasn't quite right I may have popped the **** off so I grabbed the dremel, cut the grooves and locked it in.
ETA - Looking good, always fun when parts come in isn't it?
For the shift boot, i actually accidentally removed it all the way by accident about a year ago. Couldn't get it back to sit in the grooves no matter what i tried. To cut grooves for the ****, i am just afraid i might damage it and not even sure where to cut or where the locking area is. While i was at it, i tried removing my scratched up driver side door where the buttons are and have tried some plasti dip on it just for the fun of it.
Haha indeed it is, i got the first package in regular mail which was the tow hook and went to install it. 5 min in and the UPS truck comes with the rest and i had the biggest smile. I think the UPS Truck is the equivalent of the ice cream truck when we were kids. (lol i know him by his first name).
For the shift boot, i actually accidentally removed it all the way by accident about a year ago. Couldn't get it back to sit in the grooves no matter what i tried. To cut grooves for the ****, i am just afraid i might damage it and not even sure where to cut or where the locking area is. While i was at it, i tried removing my scratched up driver side door where the buttons are and have tried some plasti dip on it just for the fun of it.
For the shift boot, i actually accidentally removed it all the way by accident about a year ago. Couldn't get it back to sit in the grooves no matter what i tried. To cut grooves for the ****, i am just afraid i might damage it and not even sure where to cut or where the locking area is. While i was at it, i tried removing my scratched up driver side door where the buttons are and have tried some plasti dip on it just for the fun of it.
I placed the **** on the shifter then used a sharpie to mark where the lock would sit and cut there. Not a lot, just a small score line enough for the clip to seat. If you had a small hacksaw blade you could probably use that to score a line too. You're probably going to need to pull the whole assembly off, cut the zip tie then reinstall one. Perfect time to restich if you wanted to.
I wouldn't bother calling Infiniti dealerships about that part. I'll look at the part # on the box when I get home tonight for ya. My dealerships parts dept. said, "We don't sell aftermarket parts".
I contacted a company from the net and they ordered it from Nissan for me. I think the "delete" cost me about $20. You just need to supply them with the paint code.
I'll see what I can find out for you, Rochester.
I contacted a company from the net and they ordered it from Nissan for me. I think the "delete" cost me about $20. You just need to supply them with the paint code. I'll see what I can find out for you, Rochester.
Does anyone have any suggestions for fixing brake squeal? I've cleaned the rotors (just rinsed them off) I've tried stomping on the brakes to try to get any glazing off of them and I've replaced the brake pads. The rotors were machined about 15,000 miles ago. I literally am at a loss and it's driving me up a wall.
Copper grease on the back of the pads should help prevent squeaks
Do you have ceramic pads?
Brake squeal is not a bad thing, it's normal on most supercars FWIW
Nick C.
Do you have ceramic pads?
Brake squeal is not a bad thing, it's normal on most supercars FWIW
Nick C.
Does anyone have any suggestions for fixing brake squeal? I've cleaned the rotors (just rinsed them off) I've tried stomping on the brakes to try to get any glazing off of them and I've replaced the brake pads. The rotors were machined about 15,000 miles ago. I literally am at a loss and it's driving me up a wall.
Here's what TireRack says to do with new HAWK pads:
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
