Hi guys,

Thanks for being so hospitable to me. So my car is going to HP Logic in West Palm Beach to get a full fluid change. I'm collecting parts and they are starting to scatter throughout the house, Haha, But I have a few questions if you guys would be so kind to help me out?

1) Rocker Switch - I'm putting an auxiliary set of lights on my car (that I promise will NOT be tacky) and so with that being said, I'm going ot have them come on with the parking lots but I still want to install a switch incase I want to shut them off. What switch fits in the switch blanks to the left of the steering wheel? I'd like something as clean looking as possible.

2) I'm not having the brake fluid changed. I'm thinking about doing it as well as having stainless steel lines installed front. What are your thoughts? 142k unknown history.

3) I keep getting a Check Engine for my Catalytic Converter. I'm thinking about putting in a set of test pipes and leaving the rest of the exhaust stock for right now, as im focusing on getting the car 100% mechanically sound before I start upgrading. Anyone have any experience?

4) Brake Rotors? Suggestions? I like Hawk HPS Pads so thats my goto pad. Are cross drilled and slotted suggested on these cars?

5) Im looking for pics of our cars on CCW Classic wheels. I don't care if it takes me 2 years of scraping and saving, I am getting those fn wheels!

Thanks again for allowing my annoying ***

 

Answered my own question on the switch after some searching . Sorry about that. Everything else tho?

 

I'm running DBA 4000 D/S rotors paired with Hawk HPS 5.0 pads and have had zero issues in the three (3) years since I installed them. Keep in mind I average 2500 miles a year so I can't vouch for long term wear. I do know that in a panic stop they will stop on a dime and give you 9¢ change.

Drilled and/or slotted rotors are a touchy subject on here. Some swear by them, others despise them, and those, like me, who gets what they want within reason. It all comes down to your driving style, needs, and preferences.

It does seem that the Z1 2-Piece rotors are a very popular option.

 

For clarification to anyone who might ask about the brakes, you have a 2008 6MT, so that means the Akebono brake setup.

OP, if you don't know the car's history, then absolutely swap the brake fluid. It's hygroscopic, meaning over time it will absorb moisture and become less brake-fluid-y (LOL). This is something you should do every 3 years or so.

While at it, swap the diff fluid, tranny fluid, clutch fluid, PS fluid and coolant. Full fluid swaps are best when buying an old car without history.

Test pipes will smell bad. They just will. If you're OK with that, and the raspy noise that comes with it, and you can either live with or resolve the inevitable CEL, go for it. My advice is to get a pair of high-flow cats with a 300 cell-count.

Drill holes and slots are for looks. If that's the look you want, have at it. Your best rotor replacements would be light-weight, two-piece rotors, but you will spend a LOT of money for that setup, for minimal gains.

CCW Classics? They look fat and old school to me, irrespective of the 3-piece design, but the heart wants what the heart wants. If the centers were black and the lip were polished silver... maybe.

 

I just put stop tech z26 kit on my coupe (rotors, lines, pads). They look great and the car stops. Would do it again.

 

You got the blank or drilled and slotted rotors?

 

Drilled and Slotted. Here is a pic for reference.