By "popping" the trunk I am referring to using a coat hanger to try hitting the trunk release switch ON THE DASHBOARD, NOT the outside switch. The dash switch should work regardless of where the damn fob is.

 

Your issues might be as simple as communications. Bare with me.

The car can easily lock with the fob inside. (Why do you think the car can lock itself when you are driving)
Recently I found a fob at the yard and had a buddy program it to the car. The car accepted the key.
With this key I would be able to lock the car while engine was on with the fob #1 inside, once ready to enter the car I would unlock by the handle with fob #2 and it would recognize and unlock.

I received a low battery warning on thefob #2, I switched the battery on fob #2 and somehow put it backwards without realizing then put the #2 away.
I lost fob #1, tried fob#2 and now I was not getting anything. I would insert the fob into the slot and it would recognize but not on it's own. (battery backwards dumbass)
Realized later I had put the battery backwards.

I suggest you:
1 check your fob battery level and orientation
2 check that fob #2 for you has unlocked the car in the past
3 bring the spare physical KEY to infiniti and have the profile checked to see if it matches your vin
4 check to see if when you bought the car they didn't just threw a spare fob from another car.

 

Gotcha. I'd think the mechanical key would work regardless of where the fob is too but...

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Interesting thing you did with the spare! My comments on your suggestions...

1) Done multiple times...it's the correct battery (new) with the correct orientation (plus + side down).
2) That horse has left the stable! Next time I buy a car I'm checking both keys before driving off. It's not doing anything now...and the mechanical key doesn't go in 100% (See pic I posted above - white car door). Earlier poster mentioned that the second fob won't work with the original fob still inside the car....as it is still "communicating" with the vehicle brains. That makes some sense (I think?).
3) If only I had a car I could drive to the dealer. Serious question: If I take the second fob to the dealer, will they be able to know if it works for my car that's sitting 30-miles away? I see there is some print on it when you take the mechanical key out, but it's a bit worn & small & difficult to read at this point.
4) Very possible that happened.

 

What they can do is see if the physical spare matches the supposed profile for depending on what your VIN mandates. If it doesnt, you have been trying the wrong fob all this time.

 

Since you chimed in yesterday, thought I'd fill you in on the final resolution: My car is unlocked, washed, waxed, & safely back in the garage!

Went to the Infiniti dealership today where I bought the car. As you mentioned, based on the VIN, they cut me a new key. We visually compared it to the spare mechanical key I was given when I bought the car 6 years & 2-days ago (Labor Day 2014) that didn't work - clearly different shapes. Got home & tried the new key they cut for me...worked like a champ.

I also learned:

• The ID # inside the fobs (top 2 rows) should match for a given car (it's in the area behind when you take the mechanical key out). There's even a tiny little QR code in there I had never noticed before.
• Strange thing is...mine DID match, but I somehow still had a mismatched mechanical key.
• They tested the fob at the dealer, and could tell it was good...but it was clearly not matched (programmed) to work with with my car. Six years & I had no clue. Guess I never used it.
• According to them, to reprogram it, I need the car & all fobs at the dealership. Not sure it's worth the cost to do so....really they should not charge me anything since they gave me a bunk fob/key to begin with, but at this point I'm just happy to be mobile again. They didn't charge me anything for the new key today sooooooooo.
• Contrary to what I said yesterday, Infiniti says the second fob should still work with the primary fob locked inside the car. Since my secondary fob is not programmed correctly, I never was able to prove this out. He suggested locking one fob in the car with the window rolled down & checking the second fob.
• Lesson learned: when you buy a car, check all of the keys before you leave the lot!

Anyways...I learned a bunch.

Thanks for chiming in & safe driving!

 

Since you chimed in yesterday, thought I'd fill you in on the final resolution: My car is unlocked, washed, waxed, & safely back in the garage!

Went to the Infiniti dealership today where I bought the car. Based on the VIN, they cut me a new key. We visually compared it to the spare mechanical key I was given when I bought the car 6 years & 2-days ago (Labor Day 2014) that didn't work - the two keys were clearly different shapes. Got home & tried the new key they cut for me...worked like a champ.

I also learned:

• The ID # inside the fobs (top 2 rows) should match for a given car (it's in the area behind when you take the mechanical key out). There's even a tiny little QR code in there I had never noticed before.
• Strange thing is...mine DID match, but I somehow still had a mismatched mechanical key.
• They tested the fob at the dealer, and could tell it was good...but it was clearly not matched (programmed correctly) to work with with my car. Six years & I had no clue. Guess I never used it.
• According to them, to reprogram it, I need the car & all fobs at the dealership. Not sure it's worth the cost to do so....really they should not charge me anything since they gave me a bunk fob/key to begin with, but at this point I'm just happy to be mobile again. They didn't charge me anything for the new key today sooooooooo.
• Infiniti says the second fob should still work with the primary fob locked inside the car. Since my secondary fob is still not programmed correctly, I never was able to prove this out. They suggested locking one fob in the car with the window rolled down & checking the second fob. They say it should work.
• Lesson learned: when you buy a car, check all of the keys before you leave the lot!

Anyways...I learned a bunch.

Thanks for chiming in & safe driving!

 

Don't get the aftermarket ones. https://www.carandtruckremotes.com/2...4aAqJ_EALw_wcB Just take your car and all your fobs to a locksmith to program for under $40 total and maybe $10 for each key cut. You can have up to 4 programmed to your car at the same time. https://www.batteriesplus.com/servic...ob-replacement. Just call the store first to see if they do programming there.

 

I know both of my fobs work, but I've never tried the mechanical keys. I should do that...