I have a 2010 G37 Sedan and recently my coolant reservoir was empty, it last had blue coolant in it but I’m not sure anything else about it. Today I changed to the prestone 50/50 and it’s green. Is this going to cause any changes? Should I go back to blue? And if so what brand?

 

You should be using the recommended coolant that is specified in your owners manual. which is Nissan long life Blue.

https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...00000005629362
See Page MA 10

Genuine NISSAN Long Life Antifreeze/ Coolant or equivalent

 

Thank you, which one is equivalent though?

 

Everywhere I've seen has said to use Genuine NISSAN.

Is, perhaps, the reason being that the G37's waterpump is on the timing chain i.e. an alternative of insufficient caliber could not just adversely effect the waterpump but the engine as well? One of those 'it's not worth the risk' situations?

 

Zerex Asian coolant is an equivalent. It comes in red or blue. The only difference is color.

 

So Zerex Blue coolant would be fine for my 2013 Infiniti G37 coupe?

 

blue is what your 2013 shouldve came with, 2012 was the last year that it was either blue or green
so yes go with asian blue make sure its ASIAN not euro

 

The OEM coolant from a Nissan or Infiniti dealer is surprisingly affordable - about $20/gallon. Just saying.

 

I just paid $12.50/gal. (bought 3) of Nissan Blue (999MP-L25500P) from dealership.

So, yeah, just saying... (lol)

 

My dealer is $25 gallon. No discounts..
What about Walmart's Super tech OE Asian Blue? For Honda Nissan etc...That's currently $11..

 

OEM can be found online for $15-20. Z1Motorsports has it for $16.

My opinion? Stick with a name brand product. Prestone, Peak, etc. I have little to no confidence in anything "generic" let alone anything from WallyMart. Again, just my 10¢.

 

I will say that Walmart brand fluids saved my bacon with my Mazda3 - apparently newer mazdas need a super secret squirrel ATF rating - since the dealer wanted $40/gal at the parts counter, and WM was $25 or so.

Otherwise, and for any car that sees a more severe load (sports cars cough cough) I won't use WM stuff.