So I'm chasing down a knock..at first I thought oh no..rod knock..but it dosnt have any symptoms of a rod knock realy.still runs fantastic.no idle noise now under load noise..so then I moved to well..maybe wrist pin..but again no other symptoms and usually wrist puns make noise at start up and are a constant even at idle..not timing chain slap because after hitting it with a timing light it's rock solid and no noise at cold start..it's only at 2000 to 300 rpm and only at very light throttle..wich got me thinking...has anybody had a vvt solenoid go bad? Will it mimic a early stage rod knock? Dosnt sound like valves smacking the piston? Just sitting here at work working this through my head..hopefully it'll be nice this weakend and I'll pull the solenoid and hit it with the ohm meter..also a data log shows nothing unusual and no no dtc..

 

What you're experiencing is pinging from incorrect VTC timing. Usually happens with bad gallery gaskets or bad VTC. If you keep it at that RPM it will throw a code eventually. Most likely a p0021 is what will come up so get ready. Gallery gaskets might be needed soon.

 

ok thank you so I was on the right track ...gallery gasket alot hapier then full tear down for rods and pistons ..

 

Drive it in manual mode and see if by manually shifting and staying above 3k rpm you get your power back and noise goes away. If it does then drive the car in regular drive mode particularly staying in the 2-3k rpm to get the CEL light to trigger.

It will hurt to hear the sound until you trigger the light however the light will confirm these suspicions.

 

I only drive in manual..im boosted at 9 psi and have a gearstar 700r4 adapted in.so in uorev i have it set as a manual.
and yea down low it feels I don't know to describe it not crisp.bcrisp.miss.no stuttering. Noise only happens at 1900 to just about 3000..goes away and yea does feel pretty much normal above 3k but..hard to tell realy because at 3k im on boost..i do notice however highway it feels surgie..im figuring probably the vvt hunting for its place..and i will have to confirm this with a different pressure gauge my oil pressure gauge is at the turbo in the rear of the car but...i am down oil pressure..just about 43 to 46 at 3k..wich dosnt make me real happy lol..gallery gasket im sure ..but..i dif get 172k and 130k of that was @9psi so i guess i realy cant bitch right.gallery gasket might as well do timing set water pump and oil pump upgraded gears while im in there uhg..
and is something else concerning me actually..in town I'm around 2500 all the time and my dtc has never fired..but I'm positive at this point its not rodney saying hello...i have no metal in oil pan or filter..I also didn't see gasket but that meens nothing realy..I'll have to start the car when I get back in a couple days and just sit and hold it at rattle rpm and see if it'll kick off..
thank you guys for the ideas.

 

That far back of an oil pressure reading might not show the erraticness. The gasket many times cracks and opens up however never trully falling off of that area which is why you might not have noticed anything in the pan. Also depending on how it falls it might get destroyed by the chain so chances that you'll see gasket material in the oil can be 50/50.

Unsure when was the last time you had the car tuned however if access to Uprev/Ecutek you can monitor VTC % and the % of the solenoid. These should be moving around however in the specific range of fault they will act crazy trying to compensate without sufficient pressure. Over time the VTC gear can get damaged by overheating and slipping the Toothed wheel on the VTC.

 

Thank you that was a question I had I was going to look into.i did data log and timing was spot on but I didn't think to log the vtc. 1 and 2 should be simulator I would think thank you gives me another diagnostics check I didn't think of...last it was tuned was a few years ago when I went to a gt3582.
spoiled a little quicker and a better area under the curve..
I realy can't complain it has been realy good to me this is honestly the forst problem ive had with it in 130k miles

 

130k boosted miles is more than enough to ask of them and for that year at those miles you should have had these problems already.

You should log
VTC 1&2
VTC solenoid 1&2
AFR 1&2
Accelerator pedal
RPM
Knock
Calculated load

I currently have Gallery issues and VTCs go crazy around that RPM with more than 35% load. What's even more interesting is that I've replaced my gasket however my issue might be hardware or bad VTC because my oil pressures are much above what folks report. I get 15psi at 650rpm, I get 90psi above 3000rpm. With the code off my oil pressure looks like a heart attack jumping back and forth 20psi from anywhere in the rev range. Once I trigger a p0021 my oil pressures stabilize however with the light it means limpmode. I clear the code and off to the races the pressures go.

Knock sensors can pick up some of this stumbling and misfires as well. So it's important to take a look at all of them after the log to see if at any point you see any inconsistencies after you figure out your averages.

On another note my self and the community would love to see this setup.

 

Yea I allready log all them on a normal welfare check data log I'll have to add the vtcs..our reliefs open at 90 psi could be why yours jump around at 90+ or maybe gear is worn in the pump wich I doubt or I'd not think you'd see 90+..did replace both vtc? Maybe other is beat up as well.or maybe the sprocket itself. I feel your pain having g to Crack it open again uhg..
and yea it's been good ro me .rthis is the first problem I've had with it I thought for sure I'd have folded a rod lol it's proof a great tuner..
I'll have to take some updated pictures when I get home ..I'm at a convention for the weakend.but I do have some early build pictures in the phone I'll upload it dosnt look anything crazy with h is what I wanted..
oh as a thought..have you hit your solenoids the should ohm out at 8 -12
any way these are the pictures I have in the phonephone...

 

ok did same data logs have a look ..what do ya think..

 

I'm not seeing anything out of the ordinary..but maybe IM far from a tuner so maybe I'm misunderstanding what im seeing here..

 

Unsure what you use for seeing your logs however I use https://datazap.me

I see about a 4-7% difference in A/F correction in between banks. This means that either a dirty or maf reading lower than the other or an exhaust leak or under performing A/F. I doubt this has anything to do with the rattle but something to pay attention to in the future.

In the Highway and rattle logs I saw a significant amount of knock and it's being detected by all of the cylinders. Since you did not log vtc or solenoids I'm unable to know. In mine's I dont get that knock.

Here's a shot of your knock count.



Might be a bit tricky to log all of this but this will give me a bit more data

 

Tea b1 and 2 have allways been off of each other even before i went f/i Jeff said it was typical of a vvel engine and as long as it dosnt leen out its normal.
I just use windows trio to view my logs i don't know why you don't see vvt i have them flagged and I see them with trio..but I'll have to use the viewer you usr because i dont see a knock count either except under boost but i did pull a few more logs today and made sure vvt was logging ill upload them here ..i do think i have a gallery issue as well while idle pressures are fine im at min spec at 3k ..i see 42 to 44 at 3k but if i lay on the throttle does jump to 60 but. Then again my oil pressures are back at the turbo i had a turbo seize on me oil line got pinched so I moved pressure at the turbo was an expensive lesson lol..so this weakend I'll toggle in another sender at my cooler plate .any way here's the logs

 

bumping this up. did y'all end up fixing your vvt issues? i'm throwing a P0011 right now, but it doesn't go into limp and i still have full power. Gallery gaskets were changed (mls kind) back in 2022 during the WP job. was thinking about swapping banks to see if it jumps, but of course, the part numbers are different..