vqnoire

2012 G37 7AT 180xxx kms

Here's The Full Story:

So I've been experiencing the dreaded P0011 ("A" Camshaft Timing Over Advanced Bank 1) code for about 2 months now. Tried oil change, solenoids, and cam sensors, none seemed to fix it.
Took it to a local mechanic and they said: "...the intake VVT solenoid (bank 1) is always 10 degrees behind desired timing. While checking operation of the solenoids, there was a noticeable chain noise when the timing was changed, one to 2 degrees, either positive or negative."
They also stated that my oil pressure was high (70psi while desired is 43psi) and that they would have to do a deeper inspection (take timing cover off) but it was most likely either the timing chain or cam sprocket. They said they would order in all the parts and would start the job 2 weeks from then.
About 2 weeks later, they said they couldn't get the parts and I would have to go to the dealer...

So I booked another diagnosis inspection through an Infiniti dealer 2 hours away. They were pretty busy and I was able to get in 2.5 weeks from then.
Then about a week and a half before my appointment, the G wouldn't start. Scanned for codes and found code P0340 (Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit).
Ordered a aftermarket sensor from rockauto and the car started up and the code P0011 code was gone. I thought the issue was fixed and I wouldn't have to worry about dishing out 3k-5k for a fix.

Everything was working amazing for about 2 weeks (2500kms of driving). Then after work, the car went into limp mode again @3500rpms. Checked for codes and P0011 was back again...
I did some more research and I found that the aftermarket sensors aren't usually reliable and tend to give out. So I ordered a OEM one from Z1.
Put it in, and car wouldn't start again. Unplugged the sensor and car would start. So that's when I knew I was going through what Jim Wolf Tech explained: http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...derslipped.pdf

Fast Forward To Now:

I've decided that I'm not gonna pay the dealer 3k-5k for this since I'm an 18y/o apprentice who is just starting his career. I've ordered the parts and have decided to do this with the help of a couple of the boys (one who is in a mechanic co-op).
The parts I've ordered are:
- Timing Kit (Chains, Guides, Tensioners, etc.)
- Both Bank 1 & 2 Cam Sprockets (Hitachi)
- Water Pump (for coolant leak)
- OEM Updated Gallery Gaskets (Z1)

So as I start this project tomorrow (December 26th, 2023) I hope that you guys wish me good luck. And if you have done a project similar to this and have any tips/advice, please don't hesitate. I've never done a big project like this but I'm eager and want this fixed so I can drive and enjoy my car.
Merry Christmas and wish me good luck.

December 25th, 2023
- vqnoire


@BULL @SonicVQ srry for @ing y'all, ik you guys have some good knowledge on this sorta thing.

beefychicken

Have fun and keep us updated and dont hesistate to post if you need help!
Its good to see someone out there diving into a repair and hoping for the best.

From what i understand is that once the job is complete and works you will earn your Forum Certification.
Mods, we may need to order another Forum Service Excellence patch : )

vqnoire

Thanks for the response man. haven’t been on the forum since i posted lol.

UPDATE: I’ve took off everything that’s needed (upper intake manifold; intakes; valve covers; serpentine belt along with idler pulleys and tensioner; and moved alternator, power steering pump, and ac compressor).

In regards to the AC lines connecting to the radiator, I do have working AC and don’t want to discharge my AC so I’ve kept the lines intact. I haven’t moved the radiator fully, but I’ve pulled just the one side over so I am able to fit an impact in there. I’ll leave a picture below.

All that’s left is to get the crank bolt off. I’ve ordered the special thick 19mm socket that is recommended and it should be coming in soon. I’m gonna use a 1/2” Milwaukee Impact Wrench (1400 ft/lbs torque) to take it off… it should do the job.

Once the crank bolt is off, i’ll be able to take off the timing cover then replacing all the parts should be the easy part lol.

Thanks for the reply wish me good luck.

beefychicken

Here is a really nice tool to use for breaking loose a stubborn crank bolt especially in limited access situations. (just now remembered this when I read your post)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26188757612...mis&media=COPY

vqnoire

Okay thanks. I bought a Harmonic 19mm Socket that should break the bolt loose. I’m using a Milwaukee Impact Wrench (1400 ft/lbs bolt breaking), so it should get the job done. I’ve heard that this socket + impact gun combo will get the bolt off. Gonna try this on Sunday

BULL

I wish you the best of luck. Look up my VTC thread so you can check where your old VTC gear was VS new ones.
Also at the moment in 2023 it is much cheaper to replace the whole engine than repairing.
There will be a time where repairing will be cheaper which I'm not looking forward to it but the VTC gear should be the end.

Clean clean clean. Nissan Silicone for the timing cover and be patient with the waterpump seals.

Good luck

vqnoire

Thanks for the reply. When you say “VTC gear should be the end”, you mean like it should fix it right? I got some permatex ultra grey silicone for the timing cover, oil pan, and valve covers.

For the water pump seals, you mean the O rings right? If so, the water pump came with the O rings already on it.

vqnoire

UPDATE Jan 1, 2024:
So I’ve got the timing cover off. The harmonic socket took the crankshaft bolt off like butter. I’ve removed the primary timing chain, gallery gaskets (not blown and are updated gaskets), tensioner, guides, and the bolt for the two intake sprockets.

The Bank 1 Cam Sprocket encoder ring was indeed slipped and that’s what’s been causing this headache. Bank 2 is fine but still gonna replace as I never wanna take the timing cover off again. First photo is bank 1 (passenger side), second is bank 2 (driver side). They’re being compared to brand new Hitachi sprockets.







Gonna use a stronger impact gun to take the exhaust sprocket bolts off and need to get the water pump out. After these are off I’m gonna start replacing everything.

BULL

I see you have already started to compare them. Can you do us ALL a favor and follow this thread and do your best at comparing your old gears with new ones.
This will contribute a huge help to the community and VHR owners in the further diagnosing of VTC issues.

Look for the dot on the teeth of the VTC and mark it and compare it to the closest VTC leg of the phaser.

Compare yours with what we have documented and deduct your old slippage. I suspect that up to half a tooth is acceptable. Anything higher than 1 tooth over will create stupid issues.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...ng-gasket.html

vqnoire

Yeah I’ll make a separate post under this post and the one you linked once I get the old sprockets off tonight. Thanks for the help

vqnoire

FINAL UPDATE: After changing out all the parts and putting everything back together, the car started up. This has been such a great learning experience and the bank 1 cam sprocket was indeed slipped causing this big headache for months.

No more check engine light and I’m pretty sure my coolant leak is gone now. Was leaking from the infamous “weep hole” on the water pump.

Thanks to @BULL and @beefychicken for the help.

If you’re going through something similar to this and you have any questions, feel free to ask.

BULL

I'm happy this cleared your issues. Seems to be that gaskets and VTC are the most common of faults. I've yet to see a slipped bank 2 gear but hey.

Whenever possible if you can post some better pictures in the previous thread I posted it would really help the community and others in the future.

vqnoire

Another Disappointing Update: So driving to school yesterday, and my car basically dies. Can’t accelerate, a bunch of lights start flashing on dash (oil light, battery light) and I pull over.

Turn off car and attempt to turn it back on, only cranking. Checked for codes and P0340 is back. After literally beating on everything in my interior, I regained my rational thinking and unplugged the bank 1 cam sensor and drove home in fail safe mode.

I did everything correct and car was running good for 3 weeks, then it came back.

I’ve ran out of ideas at this point and I’m leaning to just replacing the motor with a 2015 VQ37 from a totalled q50. I have two options: either $1200 for a 2015 3.7L with 80k kilometres (roughly 50k miles) with transmission or $1000 for 2015 3.7L with 165k kilometres (roughly 90k miles) and transmission.

My parents want me to take it to the stealership just for a second diagnosis. Which I think is just a waste of money. I’m almost certain they’re gonna say new motor and quote me 5 grand. Just gonna drive it there in fail safe mode with the sensor unplugged then plug it back in.

@BULL @beefychicken You guys have helped me so much during this process and just wanna see if you have any opinions or anything like that. Thanks.