Here is an excellent video on how to properly diagnose this problem.
Yes, it does use special tools, but show you how you can verify actual cam timing with a pressure sensor to determine the encoder has slipped:

 

That is an excellent video, except this time "hot rod BS" wasn't the problem. The problem was listening to guys who don't have the tool or the car in front of them. When I had an RX7 and took it to Peter Farrell for tuning he told me he would stop supporting me cold if he found out I was doing A N T Y T H I N G someone on the internet told me to do. Today that really hasn't changed, it's just different. I have followed that advice many times but my cheapness keeps getting in the way hope my $90 easy fix is it or I'm taking it to someone with this kind of diag.

 

Great video talking showing a shifter phaser wheel. It also confirms what I have been doing with the compendium. B1 phaser wheel needs to be pointing at tooth #5 after the TDC dot. Just need further confirmation that B2 needs to be on tooth #8.

You can also use this video as confirmation that if in case a no start and only starts without the sensor or disconnected then this mean wheel has shifted.

Sadly this level of diag requires a fancy scope. You might be able to obtain similar data from ECUTEK/Uprev however I'm not sure.

From what I have gathered in these programs what you should look out for is IVT (solenoid) data to match each other. If it does more than likely solenoids are good.
Then compare the good bank to the faulty bank. VTC angles should be the same or close to. If it's not then it points to VTC issues.

Being that this points to VTC issues, IF the VTC is damaged or the phaser wheel has shifted the repair requires a new VTC regardless.

With the Compendium completed we should then be able to just visually inspect the phaser wheel to make sure it's where it needs to be. Nandosan has confirmed that his older VTC phasers have not shifted.

The last part involving VTC issues is wear in the hole where it meets the VTC cover. This part here is a bit tricky because NONE of the previous tests can catch a VTC cover internal oil pressure leak between cover and VTC.
We will eventually find a simple way to test for this in the future.


PS: Hotrod bull**** sadly that mentality cost's customers. Cars will forever be modified, we can somewhat assume that by following the forums advice you'll be able to modify your hotrod correctly.

 

Well, the new Hitachi solenoid WORKED! For now. Runs like it did before this cluster F. Let me drive it for a few days and I'll check back. The old/cheap $40 one was from Parts Geek. Maybe ill keep it and test it.

 

Fingers crossed.

 

So far so good on the way to work. It would have limped by now if it weren't fixed...I believe. "Fingers crossed"

 

Little update for you guys,

I decided to pull the engine out since I was planning on do the upper tensioner on bank 2 and the upper oil pan. I swapped out both cam sprockets, crank sprocket, water and oil pump, chain and the main tensioner as well. Unfortunately though I broke the rack and pinion’s oil supply line when I was dropping the engine back in so now I gotta see if I can find the little line or if I have to replace the entire rack and pinion. I ALSO snapped an idler pulley bolt on the bracket so I’m waiting on that part to come in.

im a little scared when it comes to the VVEL system and synchronizing and all that since I did have to take the ladder out to get to the tensioner. Hopefully my nightmare ends soon and I can finally drive my G, it’s been almost 4 months now without driving it.


Im picking up a new battery from autozone and will start it later today, won’t have any of the pulley connected, just really wanna hear my g start up lol


Rack and pinion line

The broken part of the upper oil pan

Upper oil pan


Bank 2

Bank 1

Crank

 

The Hitachi one you got was the OEM Hitachi or the VTS0003 and 5?

 

Yes, I'd like to know too. I replaced mine from RA with the VTS for B1 and still have P0011.
I'm eager to hear back if OEM vs VTS did the fix... Many thanks.

 

Only get OEM Hitachi.

 

Thanks for the reply. Just a general question if you or anyone knows the difference between OEM vs aftermarket Hitachi.

 

I just answered this question just now on another thread. There should be no difference but there always is. First run quality almost never goes to aftermarket no matter who or where it was made. I'm in the OE supply base. In general you should be good with Rock Auto as they do not have counterfeit parts.

 

Hi, I have an Infiniti Q60 Convertible, 2015, 45k miles
I have problem with error P0524 and P0021.
- oil pressure is OK
- gallery sealing is OK
- the solenoids are new
-new sensors
-sealing o-rings new
-the pointer on the phaser points to 8 teeth from the dot
-electrical cables OK
I will connect the diagnostics and reset the errors. The engine idles beautifully. After starting, when the engine starts to pull, it starts to report errors and it no longer idles well. When pulling between 1200-2000 RPM I hear a rattling sound.
Please what should I do next?
Could the L phaser be bad?
Thank you.

 

How do you know Gallery gasket is OK

 

I had the whole front engine cover apart and I put a new gasket on just to be sure (the old gasket was fine too).