2009 G37 Limp mode w/ SES-No codes
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2009 G37 Limp mode w/ SES-No codes
Hi everyone. I am new here, but have visited the site multiple times before and finally joined.
I have a limp limp mode issue. I’ve seen posts about this but all seem to have a different solution.
I got the car a month ago. 89k miles AT.
First drove around the block it was fine. I took it to the store and on the way back it started surging (limp mode)so I pulled over and shut it off and turned back on and it was fine. Before this, all I did was change the oil with Castrol synthetic and a fram ultra guard oil filter. Also some body work that was needed.
The second time, it started surging and this time the traction lights and SES light came on. Plugged in obd2 and no codes, despite the light being on.
When it enters this limp mode, the car won’t rev past 2,400 rpm. I can shut it off for 10 seconds, then turn it back on and it will drive fine.
On a 3hr 1way trip this weekend it only did it once.
Coming back, it did it 3-4 times.
I have since replaced
The battery in the key and air filters.
Could it be the MAF sensors that are dirty or bad?
No oil leaks, I read some bad gaskets would cause this?
The battery was also completely dead when I got it. I charged it and it is fine now.
The car drives fine the rest of the time. But it’s random limp mode is no fun at all.
Thanks in advance.
I have a limp limp mode issue. I’ve seen posts about this but all seem to have a different solution.
I got the car a month ago. 89k miles AT.
First drove around the block it was fine. I took it to the store and on the way back it started surging (limp mode)so I pulled over and shut it off and turned back on and it was fine. Before this, all I did was change the oil with Castrol synthetic and a fram ultra guard oil filter. Also some body work that was needed.
The second time, it started surging and this time the traction lights and SES light came on. Plugged in obd2 and no codes, despite the light being on.
When it enters this limp mode, the car won’t rev past 2,400 rpm. I can shut it off for 10 seconds, then turn it back on and it will drive fine.
On a 3hr 1way trip this weekend it only did it once.
Coming back, it did it 3-4 times.
I have since replaced
The battery in the key and air filters.
Could it be the MAF sensors that are dirty or bad?
No oil leaks, I read some bad gaskets would cause this?
The battery was also completely dead when I got it. I charged it and it is fine now.
The car drives fine the rest of the time. But it’s random limp mode is no fun at all.
Thanks in advance.
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From: Milwaukee,WI
I had this issue before. I would check the oil pressure with an external gauge, not your OBD II data. In my case, the oil gallery gasket failed and cause low oil pressure. That low oil pressure also damaged the intake cam solenoid bank 2 as well. Dealership repair cost is about 2300 dollars labor and parts together. My 3rd party warranty covered that cost. Mine failed at 121k miles. This is a permanent fix.
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What gaskets are they and do they require the engine to be pulled?
I would hate to have to pull it.
Do you think that is my issue? The internal gaskets.
I did a little more reading. The gaskets you mentioned are behind the timing cover on the front of the engine right ? Rear timing cover oil gallery gaskets?
Last edited by Serf27; Feb 12, 2018 at 04:48 PM.
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I had this issue before. I would check the oil pressure with an external gauge, not your OBD II data. In my case, the oil gallery gasket failed and cause low oil pressure. That low oil pressure also damaged the intake cam solenoid bank 2 as well. Dealership repair cost is about 2300 dollars labor and parts together. My 3rd party warranty covered that cost. Mine failed at 121k miles. This is a permanent fix.
I will check oil pressure in a couple hours.
From I saw in a video
minimum oil pressure at idle with oil temp 80° is 15+ psi?
minimum oil pressure at 2k rpm is 44psi.
Is this correct?
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I checked oil pressure.
At first it was 21 psi at idle.
Then it dropped to 16.5 psi at idle on the second-third test.
At 2k RPM, it was around 50 psi.
Cleaned MAF sensors.
Problem still persists and jerks the car and transmission jerks too.
At first it was 21 psi at idle.
Then it dropped to 16.5 psi at idle on the second-third test.
At 2k RPM, it was around 50 psi.
Cleaned MAF sensors.
Problem still persists and jerks the car and transmission jerks too.
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I took the car to get a diagnostic.
Was told the passenger maf sensor wasnt wasn’t working at all.
Spark plugs had to be changed
coil boots had to be changed
and valve cover gasket was leaking into plug tubes causing a misfire?!
I was told all this stuff was making it go into limp mode
I replaced the VC gasket
Plugs and
MAF sensors with eBay ones.
Still goes into limo mode
It seems a lot like it only does it at night.
I just bought Autozone duralast maf sensors,
hopefully it fixes it.
Could 1 maf sensor be completely not working and the car run well?
If these duralast sensors don’t stop the issue then where else should I look?
Was told the passenger maf sensor wasnt wasn’t working at all.
Spark plugs had to be changed
coil boots had to be changed
and valve cover gasket was leaking into plug tubes causing a misfire?!
I was told all this stuff was making it go into limp mode
I replaced the VC gasket
Plugs and
MAF sensors with eBay ones.
Still goes into limo mode
It seems a lot like it only does it at night.
I just bought Autozone duralast maf sensors,
hopefully it fixes it.
Could 1 maf sensor be completely not working and the car run well?
If these duralast sensors don’t stop the issue then where else should I look?
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Same issues
Welcome to the forum.
Your situation sound similar to what I had a few months ago on my 2009 6mt sedan. Was just heading out to grab some groceries and I was revving up to shift and it jerked like crazy at 2800RPM even threw the same warnings also. Towed it to the dealership and they diagnosed it to have code P0524 - low engine oil pressure- inner timing cover leaking *Rear.
If you search that code or inner timing cover leak around myg37 you'll see tons of threads on it. At first I thought the same thing as you around MAF and Throttle body which i'm glad I didn't go further than my driveway after giving those a good clean as the jerking just came right back.
This is one of the bigger (if not biggest) issues the earlier years of the G37 has because of the bad quality paper gasket that was updated in the later years.
According to my repair order and chat with my buddy who was the service manager, the tech had to remove most of the front end including the radiator and all hoses to make enough room to get the timing chain cover off the block. The cost of parts isn't that bad, its the labor that's killer. They had my car for about 4 days to get it all done. There is a guy on Youtube who tackled it and he mentioned that the dealership quoted him (i think) ~$3,500 for the repair.
Best of luck of the fix,
1scG37s
Your situation sound similar to what I had a few months ago on my 2009 6mt sedan. Was just heading out to grab some groceries and I was revving up to shift and it jerked like crazy at 2800RPM even threw the same warnings also. Towed it to the dealership and they diagnosed it to have code P0524 - low engine oil pressure- inner timing cover leaking *Rear.
If you search that code or inner timing cover leak around myg37 you'll see tons of threads on it. At first I thought the same thing as you around MAF and Throttle body which i'm glad I didn't go further than my driveway after giving those a good clean as the jerking just came right back.
This is one of the bigger (if not biggest) issues the earlier years of the G37 has because of the bad quality paper gasket that was updated in the later years.
According to my repair order and chat with my buddy who was the service manager, the tech had to remove most of the front end including the radiator and all hoses to make enough room to get the timing chain cover off the block. The cost of parts isn't that bad, its the labor that's killer. They had my car for about 4 days to get it all done. There is a guy on Youtube who tackled it and he mentioned that the dealership quoted him (i think) ~$3,500 for the repair.
Best of luck of the fix,
1scG37s
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2018
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Welcome to the forum.
Your situation sound similar to what I had a few months ago on my 2009 6mt sedan. Was just heading out to grab some groceries and I was revving up to shift and it jerked like crazy at 2800RPM even threw the same warnings also. Towed it to the dealership and they diagnosed it to have code P0524 - low engine oil pressure- inner timing cover leaking *Rear.
If you search that code or inner timing cover leak around myg37 you'll see tons of threads on it. At first I thought the same thing as you around MAF and Throttle body which i'm glad I didn't go further than my driveway after giving those a good clean as the jerking just came right back.
This is one of the bigger (if not biggest) issues the earlier years of the G37 has because of the bad quality paper gasket that was updated in the later years.
According to my repair order and chat with my buddy who was the service manager, the tech had to remove most of the front end including the radiator and all hoses to make enough room to get the timing chain cover off the block. The cost of parts isn't that bad, its the labor that's killer. They had my car for about 4 days to get it all done. There is a guy on Youtube who tackled it and he mentioned that the dealership quoted him (i think) ~$3,500 for the repair.
Best of luck of the fix,
1scG37s
Your situation sound similar to what I had a few months ago on my 2009 6mt sedan. Was just heading out to grab some groceries and I was revving up to shift and it jerked like crazy at 2800RPM even threw the same warnings also. Towed it to the dealership and they diagnosed it to have code P0524 - low engine oil pressure- inner timing cover leaking *Rear.
If you search that code or inner timing cover leak around myg37 you'll see tons of threads on it. At first I thought the same thing as you around MAF and Throttle body which i'm glad I didn't go further than my driveway after giving those a good clean as the jerking just came right back.
This is one of the bigger (if not biggest) issues the earlier years of the G37 has because of the bad quality paper gasket that was updated in the later years.
According to my repair order and chat with my buddy who was the service manager, the tech had to remove most of the front end including the radiator and all hoses to make enough room to get the timing chain cover off the block. The cost of parts isn't that bad, its the labor that's killer. They had my car for about 4 days to get it all done. There is a guy on Youtube who tackled it and he mentioned that the dealership quoted him (i think) ~$3,500 for the repair.
Best of luck of the fix,
1scG37s
I was beginning to wonder if anyone would reply to me.
The diagnostic sheet from the mechanic says
“Vehicle inspection found upon arrival-P010B MAF sensor/circuit B2 passenger side. Air flow too low”
Guess their snap on code reader code read the code that my decent reader couldn’t find
I will give these duralast maf sensors a shot and see how they work. If problem persists, I am going to ask the Shop to do another diagnostic.
I checked oil pressure first, not sure if you saw, but I had about 16-21psi at idle, 50psi at 2k rpm.
Though the FSM says minimum 14psi, could 16psi still be too low if the problem persists?
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 78
Likes: 9
Quoting Slartibartfast.16PSI is fine. I think it's actually like 16PSI +/- 1-2PSI depending on oil viscosity, temp, and other factors.
50PSI on light load at 2K RPM also seems ok. So maybe you may just have a faulty MAF. Are the intakes stock or possibly the previous owner had aftermarket intakes, threw on the oem ones to sell and didn't clean it. Nonetheless, trying a new set of OEM MAF sensor may just fix your issue.
Not sure how much history you have on the car, but I'd still be cautious of that inner timing oil gallery. Those 2009 oem gaskets are just terrible.
-1scG37s
50PSI on light load at 2K RPM also seems ok. So maybe you may just have a faulty MAF. Are the intakes stock or possibly the previous owner had aftermarket intakes, threw on the oem ones to sell and didn't clean it. Nonetheless, trying a new set of OEM MAF sensor may just fix your issue.
Not sure how much history you have on the car, but I'd still be cautious of that inner timing oil gallery. Those 2009 oem gaskets are just terrible.
-1scG37s
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 78
Likes: 9
Just googled the Code you pulled;
The site i found stated the following:
Possible causes:
- Faulty mass air flow sensor
- Intake air leaks
- Dirty mass air flow sensor
- Dirty mass air filter
- Mass air flow sensor harness is open or shorted
- Mass air flow sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p010b_infiniti.html
Hopefully it isn't a short in the circuit somewhere, that would be a huge pain to diag.
-1scG37s
The site i found stated the following:
Possible causes:
- Faulty mass air flow sensor
- Intake air leaks
- Dirty mass air flow sensor
- Dirty mass air filter
- Mass air flow sensor harness is open or shorted
- Mass air flow sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p010b_infiniti.html
Hopefully it isn't a short in the circuit somewhere, that would be a huge pain to diag.
-1scG37s
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