Clutch Slipping - Need replacement suggestions
#1
Clutch Slipping - Need replacement suggestions
Clutch started slipping a few weeks ago so I want to get ready for replacement before it goes out.
First of all:
Q1. Which exacts parts of the clutch system do I need to replace if the clutch is slipping?
Q2. Just the pressure plate + clutch disk -- I shouldn't need flywheel unless it has visible damage???
Q3. Seems like this is called a clutch-kit and the combo includes the flywheel?
EDIT: Further research shows it would be wise to replace the CSC and the MC when doing a clutch job....
Some combos offer this and others don't...
Now it gets pricey $$$$
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I preferably would like something a little beefier that doesn't sacrifice daily driving.
Every once in a while when it rains at night after midnight I'll have a 30min drift session in an empty parking lot (maybe 4-5 times the past 3 years I've had the car).
I noticed the stock clutch doesn't deal well with prolonged high-revs and heat.
I would have to do about 10min of sliding around and let it cool so the pedal wouldn't stay "sticky".
I don't auto-cross or anything but every once in a while I'll do a peel-out from 4K-5K rpm or fishtail a corner.
Q4. Is there something that better suits me for these activities ?
Q5. Is Stage 2 clutch overkill for my intentions?
I've seen decent deals on the board, would any of these be a good replacement for me:
First of all:
Q1. Which exacts parts of the clutch system do I need to replace if the clutch is slipping?
Q2. Just the pressure plate + clutch disk -- I shouldn't need flywheel unless it has visible damage???
Q3. Seems like this is called a clutch-kit and the combo includes the flywheel?
EDIT: Further research shows it would be wise to replace the CSC and the MC when doing a clutch job....
Some combos offer this and others don't...
Now it gets pricey $$$$
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I preferably would like something a little beefier that doesn't sacrifice daily driving.
Every once in a while when it rains at night after midnight I'll have a 30min drift session in an empty parking lot (maybe 4-5 times the past 3 years I've had the car).
I noticed the stock clutch doesn't deal well with prolonged high-revs and heat.
I would have to do about 10min of sliding around and let it cool so the pedal wouldn't stay "sticky".
I don't auto-cross or anything but every once in a while I'll do a peel-out from 4K-5K rpm or fishtail a corner.
Q4. Is there something that better suits me for these activities ?
Q5. Is Stage 2 clutch overkill for my intentions?
I've seen decent deals on the board, would any of these be a good replacement for me:
Last edited by steez; 12-04-2015 at 04:18 PM.
#2
I'm not familiar with any of those names. Maybe I'm old school, but I personally would stick with a known clutch manufacturer like Luk, who I believe makes OEM clutches for some German auto brands.
Generally you don't need to replace a flywheel, just get it refaced if necessary.
Generally you don't need to replace a flywheel, just get it refaced if necessary.
#3
Registered Member
So I would recommend getting a clutch kit, it will include pressure plate and flywheel, most likely you will need all of it, I went with JWT personally and loved it you can actually go with southbend as well, but you will have chatter noise with is normal due to the lightweight flywheel but you will notice a difference in acceleration, so when you replace a clutch you also need a oem master cylinder and also on our cars the slave cylinder are horrible I went with a z speed concentric slave cylinder very popular on the vhr's since oem fail.
#4
Curious why you need to replace the master cylinder when a clutch disc is replaced?
Replaced clutches on various cars, never replaced the master as part of the deal.
As a new owner of a G37S vert, what I would like is to change the abrupt and narrow clutch engagement.
Replaced clutches on various cars, never replaced the master as part of the deal.
As a new owner of a G37S vert, what I would like is to change the abrupt and narrow clutch engagement.
#7
Seems to be some misinformation in this thread. Let's start by answering your questions.
1. Replace the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch slave cylinder, and clutch master cylinder. Optional items are shaft bearings and you should probably get a stainles steel clutch line.
2. Depends on how many miles are on the flywheel but it seems so silly to me not to replace it. Why would you want to drop the trans AGAIN after replacing all of that stuff.
3. Clutch kit usually refers to clutch + pressure plate. Some places offer full combos like the ones you linked.
4. If you do not track your car, do Auto-x, or plan on going above 350 HP, then almost any clutch will be fine for your car.
5. Overkill is always better than underkill.
Southbend and JWT are both VERY reputable companies regardless of what was said in this thread. I've heard bad things about the cheaper stuff but just check out some reviews from other people. I have a Southbend stage 3 daily clutch with a 12 lb aluminum flywheel.
Keep in mind that the OEM flywheel is a very heavy dual-mass flywheel. This reduces noise and makes the car rev more slowly. Any lighter sinlge-mass flywheel will rev more quickly, but will also give you whats known as clutch-chatter (google it). You can get the optional "quiet disk" option for South Bend clutches which significantly reduces the chatter (I opted for this).
Here's my review of my set-up:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/drivetr...sc-option.html
With any aftermarket clutch, you'll want a HD CSC from Z Speed, rather than a stock CSC which will probably fail before the new clutch wears out.
And to speedo66, a new clutch won't really change the engagement point (it probably will a little bit but not significantly). If you really want to change it, get the RJM clutch pedal assembly, which offers clutch adjustability and is the only reason I don't want to chop my leg off on long drives.
1. Replace the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch slave cylinder, and clutch master cylinder. Optional items are shaft bearings and you should probably get a stainles steel clutch line.
2. Depends on how many miles are on the flywheel but it seems so silly to me not to replace it. Why would you want to drop the trans AGAIN after replacing all of that stuff.
3. Clutch kit usually refers to clutch + pressure plate. Some places offer full combos like the ones you linked.
4. If you do not track your car, do Auto-x, or plan on going above 350 HP, then almost any clutch will be fine for your car.
5. Overkill is always better than underkill.
Southbend and JWT are both VERY reputable companies regardless of what was said in this thread. I've heard bad things about the cheaper stuff but just check out some reviews from other people. I have a Southbend stage 3 daily clutch with a 12 lb aluminum flywheel.
Keep in mind that the OEM flywheel is a very heavy dual-mass flywheel. This reduces noise and makes the car rev more slowly. Any lighter sinlge-mass flywheel will rev more quickly, but will also give you whats known as clutch-chatter (google it). You can get the optional "quiet disk" option for South Bend clutches which significantly reduces the chatter (I opted for this).
Here's my review of my set-up:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/drivetr...sc-option.html
With any aftermarket clutch, you'll want a HD CSC from Z Speed, rather than a stock CSC which will probably fail before the new clutch wears out.
And to speedo66, a new clutch won't really change the engagement point (it probably will a little bit but not significantly). If you really want to change it, get the RJM clutch pedal assembly, which offers clutch adjustability and is the only reason I don't want to chop my leg off on long drives.
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xnick101 (12-05-2015)
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#8
Registered Member
Clutch started slipping a few weeks ago so I want to get ready for replacement before it goes out.
First of all:
Q1. Which exacts parts of the clutch system do I need to replace if the clutch is slipping?
Q2. Just the pressure plate + clutch disk -- I shouldn't need flywheel unless it has visible damage???
Q3. Seems like this is called a clutch-kit and the combo includes the flywheel?
EDIT: Further research shows it would be wise to replace the CSC and the MC when doing a clutch job....
Some combos offer this and others don't...
Now it gets pricey $$$$
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I preferably would like something a little beefier that doesn't sacrifice daily driving.
Every once in a while when it rains at night after midnight I'll have a 30min drift session in an empty parking lot (maybe 4-5 times the past 3 years I've had the car).
I noticed the stock clutch doesn't deal well with prolonged high-revs and heat.
I would have to do about 10min of sliding around and let it cool so the pedal wouldn't stay "sticky".
I don't auto-cross or anything but every once in a while I'll do a peel-out from 4K-5K rpm or fishtail a corner.
Q4. Is there something that better suits me for these activities ?
Q5. Is Stage 2 clutch overkill for my intentions?
I've seen decent deals on the board, would any of these be a good replacement for me:
First of all:
Q1. Which exacts parts of the clutch system do I need to replace if the clutch is slipping?
Q2. Just the pressure plate + clutch disk -- I shouldn't need flywheel unless it has visible damage???
Q3. Seems like this is called a clutch-kit and the combo includes the flywheel?
EDIT: Further research shows it would be wise to replace the CSC and the MC when doing a clutch job....
Some combos offer this and others don't...
Now it gets pricey $$$$
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I preferably would like something a little beefier that doesn't sacrifice daily driving.
Every once in a while when it rains at night after midnight I'll have a 30min drift session in an empty parking lot (maybe 4-5 times the past 3 years I've had the car).
I noticed the stock clutch doesn't deal well with prolonged high-revs and heat.
I would have to do about 10min of sliding around and let it cool so the pedal wouldn't stay "sticky".
I don't auto-cross or anything but every once in a while I'll do a peel-out from 4K-5K rpm or fishtail a corner.
Q4. Is there something that better suits me for these activities ?
Q5. Is Stage 2 clutch overkill for my intentions?
I've seen decent deals on the board, would any of these be a good replacement for me:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G37/Coupe/2012/CL.pdf
Telcoman
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Z1 clutch kit or south Bend. Recommendation to change the csc while you got the transmission out. Reason being is that they're known to fail over time. The msc, not so much, but folks still replace them as a peace of mind. The z1 csc elimination kit or czp heavy duty csc are good replacements
#10
ik that it might be a little overkill for what you are talking about, but have a Spec super twin clutch in my 08 S coupe and I absolutely love it. I also did the heavy duty CSC and big bore wilwood MS while I was at it
#11
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Z1 clutch kit or south Bend. Recommendation to change the csc while you got the transmission out. Reason being is that they're known to fail over time. The msc, not so much, but folks still replace them as a peace of mind. The z1 csc elimination kit or czp heavy duty csc are good replacements
#12
ZSpeed Southbend Stage 2/3 Packages
Thanks for the replies.
Yes. I agree CSC and MC should be changed due to FSM and since I'm already dropping the tranny.
So far I'm looking at these ZSpeed/SouthBend packages because they include CSC and Master Cylinder:
Q1. Any reason NOT to get a lightened flywheel ?
Q2. Does anyone not like the way it drives/feel ?
Q3. Any comments on the faster revs (and how it drops faster too) ?
Q4. What if I opted for just the clutch kit and got the CSC and MC separate? (Probably won't save much anyways and prob not worth it ?)
Yes. I agree CSC and MC should be changed due to FSM and since I'm already dropping the tranny.
So far I'm looking at these ZSpeed/SouthBend packages because they include CSC and Master Cylinder:
- ZSpeed Performance Nissan Infinti OEM & Performance Parts (Southbend Stage 2 Package)
- ZSpeed Performance Nissan Infinti OEM & Performance Parts (Southbend Stage 3 Package)
- https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart...on.php?II=9754 (I can also customize a similar package here thru the drop-down options)
Q1. Any reason NOT to get a lightened flywheel ?
Q2. Does anyone not like the way it drives/feel ?
Q3. Any comments on the faster revs (and how it drops faster too) ?
Q4. What if I opted for just the clutch kit and got the CSC and MC separate? (Probably won't save much anyways and prob not worth it ?)
Last edited by steez; 12-08-2015 at 11:35 AM.
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