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Damn I don't have 21+ years driving manuals. I must be really good at driving this car
Your trolling here in a legitimate thread isn't appreciated. So at this time I'm going to invite you to no longer post in this thread ever again. With immediate effect. Continued trolling (as defined by the staff's judgement or reports from members complaining about your trolling) in future posts anywhere on the forum will compel me to feel inclined to extend your invitation to no longer post on our forum to a more permanent basis. No need to thank me for this one last chance at remaining a member here. Just make the most of it. You might benefit form thinking before you fingers hit the keyboard in the future. Or maybe you won't. It's really your choice.
Congrats on this mod, Fat Sac. Are you having that why-didn't-i-do-this-sooner feeling?
OMG yes, granted I just bought the car end of May and have had the pedal sitting for a month...but couldnt agree more that this is the best mod ive done for my car. Hands down
This could be called the "V8" mod. Having nothing to do with the engine. For those of you who aren't old, V8 vegetable juice drink used to have ads where people lamented that they drank something else and said, "Wow! I coulda had a V8!"
Almost every G37 6MT modder has this reaction once they've installed it. It kind of made me feel sorry for those that swear that turning the clutch fork rod or taping coins/spacers on the pedal arm or a spring with a different stiffness is actually fixing the problem. Putting a band aid on a gunshot wound is better than nothing I guess, but having surgery to remove the bullet and suture the wound closed is what is really needed to "fix" the problem. This mod is the surgeon.
Congrats on this mod, Fat Sac. Are you having that why-didn't-i-do-this-sooner feeling?
And congrats to you too.
I have a very small bit of slack, almost imperceptible. I believe the point is to insure you've zero engagement with the clutch. Here's an analogy: imagine you have a string tied to a brick, and the brick is resting on a scale. Try to hold the string up in the air so it's taut, without registering a change on the scale. See what I'm getting at? That's my not-an-engineer opinion.
Well, after having the RJM pedal assembly for almost 6 months, decided to install it this morning.
Installation was fairly easy, took me about 1-hr and pretty happy with the results.
I didn't remove the seat but I did move it back and use a couple of cases of water right outside the door level with the kick-plate.
Used a blanket and I was able to lay down and install the pedal assembly
See this here? This is my original equipment Clutch Position Sensor. It's located at the top/back of the clutch pedal, both OEM and RJM. It pokes through a little extension bracket, held into place by two nuts, one seen here, and another reverse nut so that you can sandwich the bracket with the threaded sensor through it.
When you push down on the clutch pedal, a plastic-padded striker will depress the plunger switch seen here, and that allows for the ignition button to make a connection to the starter through the ECU.
A year and a half after installing my RJM Clutch Assembly, I had to replace this sensor. And I have no idea whatsoever if there was any connection to this mod. Just saying... had to replace the sensor.
For going on half a year now, my car wasn't starting consistently, requiring numerous attempts to make things work. Eventually it got so bad that I was in fear of getting stranded, and I thought replacing this switch was a reasonable $20 gamble. So far, seems I lucked out.
Switches go bad. Is this the starter switch (when pedal is at the bottom) or cruise control (pedal at the top)? Based on your comments it sounds like the bottom switch. Both of these are actuated every time you depress the pedal. Sooner or later they will fail. I'd be replacing both if it were me, just to be on the safe side. However, in a pinch I'd swap the top (cruise) with the bottom.
Being able to start the car is far more important than cruise control cutting out if the clutch is depressed.
I recently worked on a pc that wouldn't POST. After much head scratching and component swapping come to find out the reset button (NO switch) was shorting out. That is, regardless if it were depressed or not, switch was closed. In 20+ years of working on pc's, i've never seen one of these fail, but anything is possible.
However, in a pinch I'd swap the top (cruise) with the bottom.
I know what you're getting at, because they are very similar. But I don't know if these have the same specs, jsolo.
And I suppose I could have triage'd this problem that way, but come on man... it's a real PITA climbing into the foot well with parts and tools and proper lights and all that BS. Plus, the new working switch was only $20.
Last edited by Rochester; Dec 23, 2016 at 04:19 PM.
It's a switch. I can't imagine either carry any significant current. Both are just used to indicate to the bcm/ecu if the pedal is depressed or not (or depressed to the floor).
From some limited research I found these 2 part numbers. Hard to tell as these are not to scale, but both look the similar to me. What may be different is the connector. It would cause the computer quite the confusion if the starter disable switch was constantly engaged. It's been a good 6 months since I last helped install one of these. I can't remember.
Same intent, same conceptual design, but there are differences. The plunger in the cruise switch looks like it has less travel. And if I had to guess, I'd assume the harnesses are different.
Whatever, man. The important point here is to give people a heads-up about the clutch position sensor for the starter circuitry. It's inexpensive, easy (enough) to swap, and could very well become a problem for 6MT owners.
Same intent, same conceptual design, but there are differences. The plunger in the cruise switch looks like it has less travel. And if I had to guess, I'd assume the harnesses are different.
Whatever, man. The important point here is to give people a heads-up about the clutch position sensor for the starter circuitry. It's inexpensive, easy (enough) to swap, and could very well become a problem for 6MT owners.
Some quick info here. The lower starter switch has been known to randomly go bad and like any other mechanical switch will eventually wear out from use. I've not seen more than 1 or 2 RJM pedal users have these fail over the past 6 years as both OEM and RJM push the switch with the identical rubber bumper at the same angle as OEM so there is no difference in how they are depressed.
Electrically BOTH switches are identical internally and BOTH have the same wiring plug so they can be interchanged. The only difference is the brown one (cruise switch) has a very short stroke and light button press so that it disengages the cruise with the slightest downward movement of the pedal. The while the white (starter switch) has a much longer button stroke so that if you don't hold the pedal completely slammed to the floor the car will still start up to a point.
So they can absolutely be swapped in a pinch if you get stranded with a no start condition. Alternately the easier option would be to unplug the wire and jump the two terminals with a paperclip long enough to get the car started so you can get home and replace it. Note there is no live power at the plug, it just switches a ground connection to the ECU so no danger of shorting anything.
The clutch position sensor appears to allow for the circuit the moment that you depress it beyond than initial click of resistance. In other words, you don't have to depress it to its full extent. Still, I installed the new one about one thread deeper, to reduce the travel of the plunger for the rest of it's lifetime. I think I'll be checking how tightly things hold together more often than I ever did before, which admittedly was never.
I don't blame the RJM pedal for this problem, however moving the OEM switch from the Nissan assembly to the new one did introduce a variation to the overall configuration. In other words, its a clutch pedal issue.
And it's my thread anyway... so there's that too.
Last edited by Rochester; Dec 26, 2016 at 02:20 PM.
My cruise control switch failed about a year after the rjm pedal install. I have no clue if they are related but even if the switch fails every year there is no way I'm driving my car without the rjm. The positives outweigh these small switch issues by a huge margin.
So I'm one of the weirdos who's been able to get totally used to my OEM Clutch Pedal, being able to get directly to the engagement point, super smooth in Manhattan rush hour driving and rowing between gears.
I do remember it feeling weird at first when I bought the car, and the pedal pressure is very heavy compared to other OEM clutches.
My main reason for not getting the RJM assembly and CSC-Elimination kits is because they require periodic adjustment over the life of the clutch. (bleh, call me lazy, or maybe it's just a sad excuse).
My ask:
I trust that the RJM Clutch Pedal Assembly is an awesome mod. But would love to try a car that has it and convince myself of what I've been missing. Anybody in the NYC area willing to lend a hand here? Please?
No convincing needed at this point. You have the numerous feedback from alot of for lack of terms reputable members imo with regards to the pedal. You have a mixture of dd to track cars with them installed. There are a TON of mods out there, but again this one has been the best one to me and I've owned both a 6mt and 7at G.
