Another slave cylinder victim here, need advice
Another slave cylinder victim here, need advice
Well I had my 09 G37S sedan for three weeks and my happiness was short-lived. Today my clutch pedal lost all pressure and resistance and won't let me engage any gears.
Clutch reservoir is empty but I don't see anything leaking but I drove a bit so it could have leaked out then. I'm going to try to refill and bleed it and see if I can at least get the car moved.
Soo... after doing some research it has to be the clutch slave cylinder. I am not under warranty but at least I have a friend that does good mechanical work so he'll be doing the work for a reasonable price so at least I wont be raped by the dealer there. My question is should I go with the OEM replacement which is around $100 or should I go with the zspeed CSC, which will be around 250 extra? Did infinity improve their quality of the cylinder since 2009? This seems to be a pretty common problem. Too bad there's no recall.
And what do you guys think about replacing the clutch while the work is being done? I'm at 77k but the clutch grabs great with no signs of slipping at all. My 02 maxima had 130k with a stock clutch and still grabbed great. Obviously with an unlimited budget I'd be changing the flywheel the clutch the CSC and all that good stuff however funds are limited so I'm trying to decide what to do and what not to do
Thanks in advance!
Clutch reservoir is empty but I don't see anything leaking but I drove a bit so it could have leaked out then. I'm going to try to refill and bleed it and see if I can at least get the car moved. Soo... after doing some research it has to be the clutch slave cylinder. I am not under warranty but at least I have a friend that does good mechanical work so he'll be doing the work for a reasonable price so at least I wont be raped by the dealer there. My question is should I go with the OEM replacement which is around $100 or should I go with the zspeed CSC, which will be around 250 extra? Did infinity improve their quality of the cylinder since 2009? This seems to be a pretty common problem. Too bad there's no recall.
And what do you guys think about replacing the clutch while the work is being done? I'm at 77k but the clutch grabs great with no signs of slipping at all. My 02 maxima had 130k with a stock clutch and still grabbed great. Obviously with an unlimited budget I'd be changing the flywheel the clutch the CSC and all that good stuff however funds are limited so I'm trying to decide what to do and what not to do
Thanks in advance!
do you plan on keeping the car for a while? since it is on your own dime i would recommend going with the HD aftermarket CSC unit. seems to hold up very well long term and worth the modest price increase.
make sure to replace the master cylinder at the same time. very important. then have the fluid bled and replaced with high quality new fluid.
as for re+re on the clutch assembly itself, that's tough to say. until you drop the gearbox you don't really know how much life is left. you may stay off the clutch for long life, but who knows about the guy before you - that's the rub of buying 2nd hand manuals. there is a guy right now on the classifieds selling a brand new OEM pressure plate and clutch disk and he's open to offers...might be worth checking out. if you don't use it you could re-sell or keep for later. but at 77k i'm guessing you will be getting close to the rivets on the disk unless the previous owner was decent.
i just had my CSC replaced under warranty, and i paid for the MC replacement myself. the dealer used GTR fluid to flush and fill. i also had them throw in an OEM flywheel/PP/clutch disk that i had picked up from the classifieds for $325 shipped. it had 5k miles on it but was in excellent shape and had much more life left than my original set with 42k on it. i didn't need to do it but it only cost me another 1/2hr labor plus the parts which were a steal. now i have an almost all new OE clutch and hydraulic assembly which i hope to last my ownership.
make sure to replace the master cylinder at the same time. very important. then have the fluid bled and replaced with high quality new fluid.
as for re+re on the clutch assembly itself, that's tough to say. until you drop the gearbox you don't really know how much life is left. you may stay off the clutch for long life, but who knows about the guy before you - that's the rub of buying 2nd hand manuals. there is a guy right now on the classifieds selling a brand new OEM pressure plate and clutch disk and he's open to offers...might be worth checking out. if you don't use it you could re-sell or keep for later. but at 77k i'm guessing you will be getting close to the rivets on the disk unless the previous owner was decent.
i just had my CSC replaced under warranty, and i paid for the MC replacement myself. the dealer used GTR fluid to flush and fill. i also had them throw in an OEM flywheel/PP/clutch disk that i had picked up from the classifieds for $325 shipped. it had 5k miles on it but was in excellent shape and had much more life left than my original set with 42k on it. i didn't need to do it but it only cost me another 1/2hr labor plus the parts which were a steal. now i have an almost all new OE clutch and hydraulic assembly which i hope to last my ownership.
Mine blew out completely at only 18K miles. While I have big regrets not going with the Z1 CSC, it was fully covered under warranty.
This time.
CSC is covered under the four year B2B, not the Drive-train Warranty. So if it happens again... ouch.
This time.

CSC is covered under the four year B2B, not the Drive-train Warranty. So if it happens again... ouch.
Last edited by Rochester; Dec 13, 2014 at 10:36 PM.
Apologizes- ZSpeed has a Wilwood clutch master for the VQ35HR, but it's not adaptable to the VQ37VHR. I still like their CSC and insulated clutch hose: ZSpeed Performance Replacment HD Clutch CSC Heavy Duty Slave Cylinder Kit
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Ok all done, ended up going with infiniti dealer parts, slave cylinder, scs aluminum hose, and a new master cylinder, all for 245$. Had a friend do the major work of dropping the trans and installing the csc, took the two of us 4 hrs with torching the exhaust screws to get them off, granted, we had a lift and power tools at our disposal and the best invention ever, gearwrench. Not too bad, he did it for 200$ so grand total was 445$ for everything. Hopefully the new csc will last longer, the infiniti parts counter here said that infiniti had improved the design, lets hope he wasnt full of crap but if it does go bad again, I'm gonna drop the trans myslef, wasnt too hard actually.
Replacing the master cylinder was a pain in the a$$! I loosened the abs module from inside the fender to get it in but it still wasnt easy. Of course while putting it in, I pressed it in dry. Filled it up with dot 4 and couldnt get it to pressurize, kept pumping and pumping and no pressure and couldnt bleed the csc, after some research on 370z forums, i found a way so here's some advice, take the pin out of the clutch pedal that holds the fork/clevis of the master clutch cylinder and with fluid in the reservoir, use your hands to push the master cylinder piston all the way in, as far as it goes, youre basically bench bleeding the master and this works because the clutch pedal alone will not push the master cylinder far enough to start building pressure. After that, just bleed it normally using the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. Hope this helps someone, if anyone needs help/advice with this, pm me and I'll help if i can
Needless to say, clutch is night and day, tight and smooth, so damn happy to get this thing back on its wheels
Replacing the master cylinder was a pain in the a$$! I loosened the abs module from inside the fender to get it in but it still wasnt easy. Of course while putting it in, I pressed it in dry. Filled it up with dot 4 and couldnt get it to pressurize, kept pumping and pumping and no pressure and couldnt bleed the csc, after some research on 370z forums, i found a way so here's some advice, take the pin out of the clutch pedal that holds the fork/clevis of the master clutch cylinder and with fluid in the reservoir, use your hands to push the master cylinder piston all the way in, as far as it goes, youre basically bench bleeding the master and this works because the clutch pedal alone will not push the master cylinder far enough to start building pressure. After that, just bleed it normally using the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. Hope this helps someone, if anyone needs help/advice with this, pm me and I'll help if i can
Needless to say, clutch is night and day, tight and smooth, so damn happy to get this thing back on its wheels
Every single time I drive my car now, I have this fear in the back of my mind that I'm going to lose my clutch again. It freaks me out enough to consider a AAA membership. (I believe that's the right number of A's, LOL)
Last edited by Rochester; Dec 18, 2014 at 12:39 PM.
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