So I have an issue, my g37 has a performance clutch from Z1 and it kept causing my stock Slave cylinder to blow (first two pics). So to solve the issue I purchased that aftermarket HEavy duty concentric replacement csc from zspeed (3rd picture) after the installation, the clutch feel was so soft basically day and night difference. Basically it would not engaged till the very very bottom of the floor and it literally half an inch or less of feel...I drove it around for a bit but it never seemed to gain more pressure...so I bled the clutch and purged it of all air and still it's the same issue...I know there's no way this can be "normal" do I was hoping someone could help bc I have trouble at times getting into first gear and reverse from startup (sometimes)...any help?

 

Do you have a stainless steel clutch line? That may help feel.

Also, what type of fluid are you using. Just go with DOT4 right off the bat if you havent already done so.

And last but not least....you could also try replacing the stock clutch spring with Jsolo's spring. This can also assist feel.

And last resort, would be to pick up an RJM Clutch pedal assembly...

Good luck homie

 

i am not running stainless steel clutch lines but i am using DOT 4. but i guess i will buy that spring because i have no idea what the problem could be :/

but thanks chilibowl!

 

No, the issue is a flaw with the Zspeed csc eliminator. They are notoriously hard to bleed, and some air is almost always left behind. Jtran Motorsports in Houston has lots of experience with that particular bit of equipment. They like it, but I've heard them discussing how difficult it is to bleed correctly.

 

i hope your right...the method i used to bleeding 3 times already was the pedal pumping and turning of the clutch nipple under the transmission....if i use a gravity bleeder will that solve the trick? whats the best method theyve found???

 

I believe a gravity bleeder is what they use.

 

thanks a ton man ill let you know how it goes after i have it bled with a gravity bleeder!

 

Gravity bleeding is what, leaving the nipple cracked open and keeping the reservoir from going dry? I wonder if reverse bleeding might help -- filling it up from the nipple side instead?

Not sure the spring would actually help in this case.

To clarify a bit, how far does the pedal have to be depressed before it gets harder to press? 1", 2", 5" , etc?

 

Yes that's gravity bleeding with a gun that sucks out the fluid and I actually attempted to do the method you suggested with an oil can pump from the bottom up but it wasn't strong enough so I have up on that....and in regards to the pedal let me put it this way...when the pedal is up, let's say when it hits the floor, that's 100% of the way....so half way in would be 50%...so basically I don't feel any pressure until it is about 90% to the floor ...so way further than halfway....it does engage and it does have pressure...just extremely minimal :/

 

Sounds like air in the system. They had to bleed a nismo 370 3-4 times before it started working right.

 

Understood. That's air in the line. From the fully up position (pedal completely off the floor), I get resistance after about 3/4" of depression. Never actually measured, but it gets hard almost immediately.

You some some significant air in the line. If you're going to reverse bleed it, you must make sure absolutely no air is escaping around the threads of the bleeder. A layer of teflon tape on the threads may help. Also no air leaks around the suction point at the bleeder.

Maybe do the gravity bleed first.

 

You may also need to:
-Check to make sure the clutch range of motion is not limited by the cruise switch
-Adjust switch position
-Adjust pedal travel

If you find that your pedal is resting on your cruise switch (the last pic in the link below), you'll need to adjust the switch and potentially the pedal travel.
How To Lower Clutch pedal engagement in a Infiniti G37 or Nissan 370z

Also, Joe from ZSpeed posted this walkthrough: How to adjust your clutch pedal Correctly. - Nissan 370Z Forum
I believe this greatly affects the ability to bleed your clutch as well. Essentially the master doesn't have full travel if the switch is in the way.

 

well i finally got it all fixed up and good as new....so basically after my stock slave gave out, i eplaced it with a heavy duty CSC. I called the manufacturer and I was told they are hard to bleed so i bled it several times. The clutch would feel good for about a day or two and then randomly lose about 80% pressure. So I ended up buying a new Master Cyclinder replaced it and solved the issue. Everything turned out great and im loving my car again haha THANKS EVERYONE!

 

Is that just for the ZSpeed HD CSC or does it apply to their CMAK delete as well? I was planning on doing the ZSpeed Stage 2 clutch, 26lb Nodular Iron flywheel, RJM Master and ZSpeed CMAK Delete.