Does these number seem correct ?
I did a baseline dyno few days ago but the numbers dont seem to be correct?
At what gear do you use to dyno?
had some problems with torque HP numbers really incorrect!!!
corrected was 287 hp & 503 tq hp
uncorrect was 266 Hp & 244 tq hp

the first dyno sheet is suppose to be the correct


second is uncorrected


<object width="640" height="390"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/2RRP5ahwflI&hl=nl_NL&feature=player_embedded&versi on=3"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/2RRP5ahwflI&hl=nl_NL&feature=player_embedded&versi on=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="390"></embed></object>

 

Cant see squat on the graphs you posted, far too small.

 

post to be in 4th gear NICE G MAN

 

Blurry as hell. What are the numbers?

 

these are the orginals can someone edit is and repost for better viewing
correted


uncorrected

 

thats alot of tq..lol

corrected was 287 hp & 503 tq hp

 

With numbes like that I would never go back,, 503 WTQ Hahahah, The uncorrected WHP look to be ok tho but not the TQ??

 

if you have 503wtq then i'd trade you straight up for cars lol.

 

Hp looks about right but the tq is wayyy off! That is some major error on the dyno's part lol

+1 on 4th gear

 

The problem is caused by not getting a good RPM/tach signal on a plug/coil wire. If a shop is not familiar with the G37, most seem to have a hard time getting a good signal if they are using a single wire clamp to pickup the signal. This leads to really skewed TQ readings on the higher end on a Dynojet (they will loose the signal after 4000 RPM, or so). I have dyno'ed my car at 3 different places, and the one place I went to that was not experienced with the G37 had the same issue (they had no issues with the older G35's). Some places use two clamps, or an optical type of pickup instead of a clamp, to prevent loosing the signal as easily. If you see speed on the X-axis of the graph instead of RPM's, this is usually a good sign that they are having a hard time getting a RPM signal.

I would try another shop, or ask them to figure out the correct wire and attachment point for the RPM/tach signal on the G37. It will make it a lot easier if you remove your engine cover prior to going. In my case, it was a dyno day and I did not have time to take the engine cover off or deal with it. My normal shop and tuner have no issues, so I will probably just stick with them from now on.