I've installed a lightweight crank pulley on almost every car I've had. logged hundreds of thousands of miles and never experienced a related problem. Almost all of them were tracked as well.

 

First, it's a damper, not a dampener.

It's a pulley with a damper, the damper is for the belt, and peripheral components, not the engine.

USDM 90 degree V8s and older v6s have what is called a harmonic balancer due to the fact they are "Crossplane crankshafts", not "Flat plane crankshafts". And 90 degrees is inherently out of balance.

The VQ is a 60 degree engine with split crank pins to achieve balance of a 120 degree motor.
Thus does not use a "harmonic balancer", its just a crankshaft pulley.

 

Typical example!!

Cran walk is caused by a worn thrust bushing. Resulting in the crank moving forward and backward, not due to rotational forces.

 

If you're gonna quote me, you cant take words out of the quote and just leave what you want, that's frowned upon.

But anyway, what are you saying?

 

I think what he's saying is that someone saying that a lightweight pulley causes crankwalk is just spreading misinformation not based on facts or personal experience.

 

Oh duh lol, I was gonna say, I wasn't the one spreading the rumors haha. I just want to know what others have experiences first hand lol

 

i've run them on two previous cars for years without issue.
i'm not going to put one on the G out of pure laziness. other car i had it on only had 230hp - being an oddball car with few mods available, it needed all the help it could get!

 

To 'Kris9884'...will the lightweight pulley be safe. Likely yes. If you have engine failure, I doubt it would be from the light pulley. Twinturbo VG owners (including me) have been running lightweight pulleys for many years on cars with significantly more HP than a stock G37. Hard driving for tens of thousands of miles with no I'll effects. Do it, if you choose. That being said, you're likely not going to get much bang for your buck performance-wise with just pulleys. To fully appreciate, you should reduce weight throughout the entire driveline. Lighter pulley, lighter flywheel, lighter driveshaft would be optimal, albeit pricey. I removed nearly 40 pounds from my TTZ doing that. You're not adding HP, you're utilizing it better due to less driveline weight. Adding 4.08 gears would help a lot too. Honestly, if you were looking for better performance, I'd skip the pulley and save for 4.08 gears and install. IMO, it would be much more beneficial, especially on a 3,700+ pound car. My $.02. Best wishes with what you decide...

 

Light-weight pulleys should be your last light-weight rotational mod. The first should be forged wheels. That's where you largest weight and centripetal force gains are.

 

For most people, forged wheels at between $4k - $8k a set has no bang for the buck. I agree, lighter wheels (and rotors) are a nice weight savings, but for a fraction of the cost, 4.08 gears would be better financially with a positive seat-of-the-pants difference.

 

Hell, just switch to a lighter set of tires the next time you need a new set. Going from the stock Bridgestones to Michelins, I'm saving 4-6 pounds PER wheel.

 

RPF1's come to mind for a cheap lightweight wheel with solid construction. 4.08 gears with my exhaust at highway speeds makes me re-think the mod.

 

Sounds good. I'm not expecting to notice much of anything, I'm staying NA w/nitrous so I'm just going to lighten up a few things along the way. Besides these, the aluminum driveshaft and flywheel, that's about as far as I'm wiling to go. Super expensive wheels are a total waste of money just to get curbed/stolen or the .10 1/4 mile gain lol.. Thanks guys!