Blackstone Laboratories Oil Analysis Reports

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Aug 21, 2008 | 06:59 AM

#16

jb5674

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People come on - I'm talkin 1-3 whp here. Not the difference of forced induction. Man, some people. I see adults like to act like kids.

Aug 21, 2008 | 11:25 AM

#17

Black Betty

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jb5674

People come on - I'm talkin 1-3 whp here. Not the difference of forced induction. Man, some people. I see adults like to act like kids.

You sound like an Amsoil distributor. And as far as acting like kids, maybe you should have read the OP's first post about not making this into a brand/type of oil pissing match.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ahujadaddy

Please DO NOT turn this into a Synthetic vs Conventional (Dino) oil debate, or bash others for caring about wut kinda oil they use.

Either send your "miracle oil" off to Blackstone, or GTFO please. K. Thx. Bye.

Aug 21, 2008 | 01:36 PM

#18

Ahujadaddy

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From: MD & NOVA

Wowsers... i am skeptical about jb's posts here, esp with post count below 10. As for acting like kids.... wow. No comment

In fact, BlackBetty summed it up pretyy well. Let's agree to disagree, thanks.

Back on topic, im still a ways off before i send in my samples. $20ish per sample... guess its about time i gave back to this community which has helped me in the past.

Aug 21, 2008 | 03:36 PM

#19

TomG37

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Joined: Mar 2006

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From: Long Island, NY

Quote:

Originally Posted by Black Betty

You sound like an Amsoil distributor. And as far as acting like kids, maybe you should have read the OP's first post about not making this into a brand/type of oil pissing match.

Either send your "miracle oil" off to Blackstone, or GTFO please. K. Thx. Bye.

+1, let me guess you can give us a great deal on the oil too, you sound like a amsoil rep.

If the oil really did give a whp gain, I think there would be more posts about it, and other oil makers would copy the forumula.

Aug 21, 2008 | 07:46 PM

#20

todd92

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For most people, who change conventional oil at 3750 miles or synthetic at 7500 miles, getting the oil analyzed is a waste of money. No oil will show anything interesting with such short drain intervals. Oil analysis comes into play when you are trying to find how far you can go, without going to far.

Aug 21, 2008 | 09:18 PM

#21

Ahujadaddy

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From: MD & NOVA

cool, thanks for the info todd... that's why we have this thread. to find out and explore. so lets see what happens! =)

Some of us dont mind spending the $ since its something that intrigues us... almost hobby like. As they say... what ever floats your boat.

Oct 28, 2008 | 11:46 PM

#22

DetroitG37Joe

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From: Metro Detroit, MI [Sterling Hts.]

bump, any updates?

Oct 28, 2008 | 11:47 PM

#23

Blackjack

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From: The ATL

None from my side... I have them ready to send, I just haven't.

Oct 28, 2008 | 11:52 PM

#24

DetroitG37Joe

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From: Metro Detroit, MI [Sterling Hts.]

take your time boyy....

I'm approaching my 7500 oil change on Friday afternoon and am deciding between these 3 options:

1. Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic with Mobil 1 Filter

2. German Castrol Synthetic 0w-30 with K&N Filter

3. Stick with OEM motor oil until 15k'ish before switching to synthetic as Black betty is - to be cautious and fully let the motor break in and seals set with conventional

Any input guys? BJ?

Oct 29, 2008 | 01:15 AM

#25

rAvi665

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From: Dallas

i got the kit from them just never sent it back...getting lazy..ill do it soon

Oct 29, 2008 | 09:45 AM

#26

Seer

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Joined: Oct 2008

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where do you get the german castrol from? I can never find it.

Oct 29, 2008 | 09:52 AM

#27

Blackjack

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From: The ATL

Quote:

Originally Posted by DetroitG37Joe

I've switched all my vehicles to synthetic around 5k and have never had a problem. I'm currently running Eneos with OEM filter, but I used to be an avid fan of Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic with Mobil 1 Filter.

My recommendation... Run Synethic with OEM Filter. I'm partial to the following oils: Eneos, Motul, Amsoil, and Mobil 1.

Oct 29, 2008 | 11:28 AM

#28

KahnQuistador

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Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 181

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The oil thing again!

Anyone here suffered engine failure tracable to "bad" oil?

Use the oil you like, keep it fresh and change it and your filters at reasonable intervals. Do the unthinkable and CHECK IT once in a while. If it's dirty sooner than you expected, change it and maybe try another brand.

Easy as that.

There is no "bad" name brand oil. If you see SAE on the container, it's good to go.

BTW, I have my flame suit on so fire away!

Oct 29, 2008 | 07:14 PM

#29

JonnyOzero3

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Joined: Apr 2008

Posts: 143

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From: 000000N 0000000E

Two UOA's for ya

Quote:

Originally Posted by DetroitG37Joe

bump, any updates?

Huh...guess I missed this thread. I've done two so far. Next one will be soon.

I'm copying this from my posts at BITOG.com

1) Unk Factory Fill 5W-30 drained at 2670mi

Quote:

MI/HR on oil - 2,670mi
MI/HR on car - 2,670mi
Sample date - 21 June 08
Oil added - 0 quarts

aluminum - 8
chromium - 0
iron - 71
copper - 140
lead - 12
tin - 1
molybdenum - 491
nickel - 1
manganese - 10
silver - 0
titanium - 0
potassium - 8
boron - 15
silicon - 229
sodium - 7
calcium - 1981
magnesium - 11
phosphorus - 734
zinc - 916
barium - 9

SUS Viscosity @ 210'F - 52.3
cSt Viscosity @ 100'C - 7.97
Flashpoint in 'F - 390
Fuel % - <0.5
Antifreeze % - 0.0
Water % - 0.0
Insolubles % - 0.3

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...98#Post1187298
-----

2) Dealer Dino Valvoline 5W-30 Drained at 3830mi (previous UOA #'s in parenthesis)

Quote:

MI/HR on oil - 3,830mi (2,670mi)
MI/HR on car - 6,501mi (2,670mi)
Sample date - 25 July 08 (21 June 08)
Oil added - 0 quarts (0 quarts)

aluminum - 7 (8)
chromium - 0 (0)
iron - 27 (71)
copper - 44 (140)
lead - 5 (12)
tin - 1 (1)
molybdenum - 136 (491)
nickel - 0 (1)
manganese - 4 (10)
silver - 0 (0)
titanium - 0 (0)
potassium - 3 (8)
boron - 6 (15)
silicon - 60 (229)
sodium - 7 (7)
calcium - 1805 (1981)
magnesium - 11 (11)
phosphorus - 672 (734)
zinc - 825 (916)
barium - 2 (9)

SUS Viscosity @ 210'F - 53.6 (52.3)
cSt Viscosity @ 100'C - 8.36 (7.97)
Flashpoint in 'F - 380 (390)
Fuel % - <0.5 (<0.5)
Antifreeze % - 0.0 (0.0)
Water % - 0.0 (0.0)
Insolubles % - 0.3 (0.3)

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...35#Post1209035

Enjoy.

I think I need the new ester oil for the TSB...I'll send that in too after it gets miles on it.

Oct 29, 2008 | 07:22 PM

#30

Black Betty

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Quote:

Originally Posted by KahnQuistador

The oil thing again!

Anyone here suffered engine failure tracable to "bad" oil?

Easy as that.

There is no "bad" name brand oil. If you see SAE on the container, it's good to go.

BTW, I have my flame suit on so fire away!

The only flaming I have for your statement is the "if it's dirty" part of your comments. There is very, very little you can tell by looking at your oil visually, hence the analysis. You cant see the stuff in oil that will do the real damage unless you have some very heavy sludge in it which is unlikely. You can't tell how "dirty" it is by color alone.

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