Blackstone Laboratories Oil Analysis Reports
06-18-2009, 07:58 PM
#76
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latest oil change @ ~10k miles (~5k interval):
oil is actually 5w40 if i remember right. only negative so far seems to be higher aluminum but like they said, it could just be the longer interval. also, i just came back from zdayz so i was pushing the car pretty hard up there. interested in seeing how the next aluminum reading comes back unless i end up at an auto-x or something. also did the tbn this time to check life and 5k is definitely ok, i could in fact go longer but i doubt i will.
oil is actually 5w40 if i remember right. only negative so far seems to be higher aluminum but like they said, it could just be the longer interval. also, i just came back from zdayz so i was pushing the car pretty hard up there. interested in seeing how the next aluminum reading comes back unless i end up at an auto-x or something. also did the tbn this time to check life and 5k is definitely ok, i could in fact go longer but i doubt i will.
11-25-2009, 06:33 AM
#79
Figured I'd throw this out there; just got it back today.
My air filter was pretty dirty (as was postulated by Blackstone for the last sample based on the high silicon reading). I changed my filter about 1/2 way through the latest sample, and the silicon reading dropped. Note that Virgin 300V already contains 10 ppm silicon, so even with the dirty air filter, the oil filter and air filter were performing admirably.
Also, I attribute the (unusually high for this oil) breakdown of the previous sample to the high temperatures. I was tracking the car in 100+ ambient temperatures. That sample included 2 track days (about 200 minutes of constant 6000+ rpm load) + my usual "spirited" driving.
The latest sample includes only one day and the usual drive.
Note that my daily commute is 7 miles of lights; I never get over 40 mph.
I'll be doing UOA when I get another G as well.
My air filter was pretty dirty (as was postulated by Blackstone for the last sample based on the high silicon reading). I changed my filter about 1/2 way through the latest sample, and the silicon reading dropped. Note that Virgin 300V already contains 10 ppm silicon, so even with the dirty air filter, the oil filter and air filter were performing admirably.
Also, I attribute the (unusually high for this oil) breakdown of the previous sample to the high temperatures. I was tracking the car in 100+ ambient temperatures. That sample included 2 track days (about 200 minutes of constant 6000+ rpm load) + my usual "spirited" driving.
The latest sample includes only one day and the usual drive.
Note that my daily commute is 7 miles of lights; I never get over 40 mph.
I'll be doing UOA when I get another G as well.
11-30-2009, 02:18 AM
#80
I had to register here just to comment on this. I am researching new car purchases (370z is one I'm looking at) so I have been reading this board.
I used to own several Turbocharged AWD DSM's and work at a shop part time to help my modification addiction. My daily driver at the time was a t3/t4 60-1 GSX, putting around 450whp down. Putting around town I would have an average EGT temp of around 900F, on boost (26psi) I would hit 1470F. During a shift I had a form of lag control tuned into the ECU that would retard the timing to force the flame front into my turbine and keep it spooled. At this point it would peg out my 1600F gauge and I really don't know how hot it got.
One day I was doing some work to my car and had to use whatever oil I had laying around. I usually used Mobile 1 and had no problems. I didn't even think twice about throwing that $.78/qt oil into my engine at the time. That night I went out and ran the car fairly hard, had no problems at all. But the next morning on the way to a friends house I saw my car smoking.
Long story short the Oil coked up in the center section of the turbo and caused a blockage. It also formed a layer of sludge in my oil pan. Took an entire weekend to clean that mess up...
So, even though you haven't ever had an oil related problem, or don't know people who have....doens't mean it hasn't ever happened. That $.78/qt oil was fine in my friends NA Civic, but the turbo on my car brought it to it's knees in one day.
So I commend people for finding out (more scientificly than I) what is the limits for their oil, in their car, under their driving circumstances.
(P.S. don't get me started on gasoline, you are correct, that's a witches brew that can spawn all kinds of arguments)
I used to own several Turbocharged AWD DSM's and work at a shop part time to help my modification addiction. My daily driver at the time was a t3/t4 60-1 GSX, putting around 450whp down. Putting around town I would have an average EGT temp of around 900F, on boost (26psi) I would hit 1470F. During a shift I had a form of lag control tuned into the ECU that would retard the timing to force the flame front into my turbine and keep it spooled. At this point it would peg out my 1600F gauge and I really don't know how hot it got.
One day I was doing some work to my car and had to use whatever oil I had laying around. I usually used Mobile 1 and had no problems. I didn't even think twice about throwing that $.78/qt oil into my engine at the time. That night I went out and ran the car fairly hard, had no problems at all. But the next morning on the way to a friends house I saw my car smoking.
Long story short the Oil coked up in the center section of the turbo and caused a blockage. It also formed a layer of sludge in my oil pan. Took an entire weekend to clean that mess up...
So, even though you haven't ever had an oil related problem, or don't know people who have....doens't mean it hasn't ever happened. That $.78/qt oil was fine in my friends NA Civic, but the turbo on my car brought it to it's knees in one day.
So I commend people for finding out (more scientificly than I) what is the limits for their oil, in their car, under their driving circumstances.
(P.S. don't get me started on gasoline, you are correct, that's a witches brew that can spawn all kinds of arguments)
j/k. I agree though, a reg. oil is fine for a reg. car. In your case, I'd def look at an oil that's made for higher temps since you're pegging your 1600F gauge, which "reg. cars" don't do. I put the $.78/qt oil in the lawn mower and $5-7/qt oil in the cars 
12-02-2009, 12:31 PM
#81
Registered User
After reading the patent application and your post (#81) in the Itb08-028: Noise From Bank 2 Vvel Actuator thread, I raise the same questions. If the purpose of the European patent is an oil strictly for improved fuel economy in a PAO base stock instead of ester. Why is Nissan making the ester recommendation? How does ester oil provide more complete lubrication than PAO? Both base stocks have extreme pressure formulations. How is the ester recommendation being associated as a step in remediating the noise or ticking in the VVEL engine?
All very good questions and a very informative thread. Here is a recent
article I found that summarizes bits and pieces that have been verified
about the Nissan Ester oil and answers some of your questions and
addresses some of your remarks....
Revenge of the Nerd - Nissan in the sump with diamonds?
Nissan's European Patent was denied based on it being so vague
in it's formulation disclosure other than the suspended carbon
particles that the patent was denied because suspending carbon in oils
has been done for years by other companies. It remains to be seen whether
Nissan will appeal....are they prepared to disclose the composition of their
artifical diamond/carbon/titanium??? dust? I don't know, but from a purely
chemical standpoint we are learning how and why it works with Nissan's
cylinder/valve plasma coating to reduce heat and friction in the VVEL system.
Now we also know that the oil is at minimum classified as a semisynthentic.
Although UAOs are very helpful, they don't tell the whole story about what
any oil is doing in an engine. I totally agree with your comments.....I want to
see what the valves and valve train look like after 40K before I'll judge
whether an oil is working well in any given engine. Most engine/oil
combinations will provide good service at the right OIC....but the right
combination is far superior and finding that combination is the trick.
I'd rather spend more for great oil that I know I can run hard, rather
than ending up spending twice as much in the long run on engine RX
treatments, engine flushes, short OCIs to get the cleaning chemicals
out, etc, etc, etc every 25 to 40K. Based on what we know about
the VQ37, I expect to see alot of gunk, varnish and sludge build-up
evident after 40K by alot of folks who think they're using "good" oil
in this engine.
Last edited by JonfromCB; 12-02-2009 at 12:46 PM.
12-02-2009, 03:39 PM
#82
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I had the regular cheap oil when I first got my G37 Nov 2007, it would tick every time I'd floor it on 4th gear. On a separate note, after the break-in period, it would consume as much as one quart every 1000 miles. I switched to 300V immediately and the consumption went down and the ticking went away and it definitely feels better at 4500+rpm. I don't see greasy deposits on the tail-pipes so the oil is definitely being burnt away.
Today, at 17,000 miles, still every 1000 miles, the dip-stick would fall below the mid-point (L--H). I add, without doubt, at least 2 quarts every 3000 miles. The dealership thinks it's normal, but I insisted on them doing a consumption test just for the record...should a warranty case arise in the future.
After this article, I kind of feel convinced that I should try the Nissan recommended oil...it will be cheaper than the 300v too.
Today, at 17,000 miles, still every 1000 miles, the dip-stick would fall below the mid-point (L--H). I add, without doubt, at least 2 quarts every 3000 miles. The dealership thinks it's normal, but I insisted on them doing a consumption test just for the record...should a warranty case arise in the future.
After this article, I kind of feel convinced that I should try the Nissan recommended oil...it will be cheaper than the 300v too.
03-29-2010, 11:00 PM
#84
Registered User
UOA on Ester Oil shows possible issues...
Gents,
Attached is my most recent UOA. Iron and Lead jumped way up from the previous lab tests.
I'm worried she (my car) didn't like *one* day at the track, didn't take the valvetrain noise TSB (ECU reprogramming) well, or that something else is the matter. Hopefully nothing shows up next time...
I posted this at BITOG as well.
Attached is my most recent UOA. Iron and Lead jumped way up from the previous lab tests.
I'm worried she (my car) didn't like *one* day at the track, didn't take the valvetrain noise TSB (ECU reprogramming) well, or that something else is the matter. Hopefully nothing shows up next time...I posted this at BITOG as well.
03-29-2010, 11:18 PM
#85
Gents,
Attached is my most recent UOA. Iron and Lead jumped way up from the previous lab tests. I'm worried she (my car) didn't like *one* day at the track, didn't take the valvetrain noise TSB (ECU reprogramming) well, or that something else is the matter. Hopefully nothing shows up next time...
I posted this at BITOG as well.
Attached is my most recent UOA. Iron and Lead jumped way up from the previous lab tests.
I'm worried she (my car) didn't like *one* day at the track, didn't take the valvetrain noise TSB (ECU reprogramming) well, or that something else is the matter. Hopefully nothing shows up next time...I posted this at BITOG as well.
Are you still using the same Dino oil or have you switched? How were the conditions at your track day? Did you hit limp mode at all? Do you have an oil cooler on your car?
*edit*
It seems you are using Nissan Ester; if I am mistaken, please correct. As stated in the UOA and BITOG, your oil's viscosity is low, and may not be properly protecting/lubricating when you're running hard. My suggestion would be to run an oil that is more shear/heat resistant, so that it doesn't break down into the 20 weight viscosity range. Try a semi-synthetic, or full synthetic.
03-30-2010, 10:16 PM
#87
Registered User
Jonny,
Are you still using the same Dino oil or have you switched? How were the conditions at your track day? Did you hit limp mode at all? Do you have an oil cooler on your car?
*edit*
It seems you are using Nissan Ester; if I am mistaken, please correct. As stated in the UOA and BITOG, your oil's viscosity is low, and may not be properly protecting/lubricating when you're running hard. My suggestion would be to run an oil that is more shear/heat resistant, so that it doesn't break down into the 20 weight viscosity range. Try a semi-synthetic, or full synthetic.
Are you still using the same Dino oil or have you switched? How were the conditions at your track day? Did you hit limp mode at all? Do you have an oil cooler on your car?
*edit*
It seems you are using Nissan Ester; if I am mistaken, please correct. As stated in the UOA and BITOG, your oil's viscosity is low, and may not be properly protecting/lubricating when you're running hard. My suggestion would be to run an oil that is more shear/heat resistant, so that it doesn't break down into the 20 weight viscosity range. Try a semi-synthetic, or full synthetic.
To answer your questions: My four samples so far (1) factory fill, (2) Dealer Valvoline Dino, (3) Penzoil Yellow Dino, (4) Nissan Ester Dino. The one track day was chilly (~40 degs F) and cloudy; didn't hit limp mode, and my car is totally stock, so no oil cooler.
You're correct on the continued use of the Ester-- I'm following the Valvetrain noise TSB for now though, in case of warranty issues.
03-30-2010, 10:18 PM
#88
Registered User
