You are correct on everything in your explanation...ESPECIALLY the grounding of the computers. If we could find an easy way to gain access to them, we would.

 

Thanks!

 

I thought I saw some mention of access to the TCU via the wheel well somewhere?

also.. can someone PLEASE let me know the size of that bolt at H? (or someone else confirm they don't have that one?) So I know if i should go smack my dealer around for the missing bolt.. lol

 

Looking through the grounds.. the H ground i'm skipping because you're going from G to a clip that nothing grounds to, to I, it would be more efficient to go from G directly to I, also skipping B-C and going directly from B to D since C just is another clip holding up a wire loom, and changing my A-B from 8 to 4 gauge (to offset the amount beefy + wires off the battery (and changing the starter to 4 gauge) (My mind will never understand an 8awg ground w/ that many positives.. remembering that electricity flows backwards )

Oh.. in addition to the TCU.. where's our starter?

 

Spoken like someone who actually gets the point of what this is supposed to do!

I am going overkill and will do 0 AWG for the main battery negative and 4 AWG from engine blcok to chassis on both sides. Unless I'm wrong, all the wires that simply go from block to block and chsssis to chassis aren't grounding anything at all.

I think the starter is on the lower side of the block on the driver side but didn't take a good look last time it was on the lift. I'll probably do that one too eventually. On my '96 Maxima I had tons of starter problems (everyone did eventually). The ground wire was a 16 gauge speaker wire! Replaced it wit a 4 gauge and haven't had a problem since. I have a 6MT so I'm not worried about the TCU grounding.

On another design flaw note, am I crazy or are both the positive and negative batttery cable ends made of relatively unconductive ALUMINUM instead of copper???

 

aluminum will work just fine if it's sized correctly.

aluminum cables sized higher than copper will conduct the same ampacity while possibly costing less, depending on cost of insulation and dialectric material if applicable.

the question is, when they chose AL, did they also upsize it to account for less conductivity? ... not sure about that one.

 

Considering my house has aluminum wiring... i hate aluminum.. lol

 

EZDozzit wasnt "D" screw hard to get to??

JY

 

A little because it's right below the radiator hose. But you can use a regular 10mm wrench to loosen the bolt.

 

Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! done! hahahahahah
Took me just over an hour to install... a lot of pain haha
I broke one of my screw driver and jamed my tumb... fail on me...
Right after I was done omg... i could tell BIG difference with DS mode and manual! NO lag for sure!

Ill post my DIY and put a link. Im here to help you guys out. Im not experienced on these things but I was still able to pull it off

JY

Edit
DIY (Stillen G' Kit)
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-installations-modifications/182294-stillen-grounding-kit-diy.html

 

Another believer. Congratulations bro.

 

dont mean to threadjack at all guys but in all honesty as a 6MT driver that plans on just keeping stock sound system - is a grounding kit even worth it for me since I am shifting myself? I dont want to waste $$$... Lemme know thanks!

 

Detroit, I am getting this and I have a 6mt. Not sure if they is a benefit for us 6mt people but it is only $60 and it will make the engine bay look better. If it increases the sound quality in my car then I will be happy.

 

i still hardly understand grounding kit technology im not much of the daily/handy electrician...Bboy are u sayn that even on a stocker 6mt and stock sound system that the actual stereo sound can get better? is ur stereo premium pkg Blose? what an eerie mod...im gonna wait till u get urs and tell me if u feel anything. ive been hearing that this mod has a placebo effect so im still a lil skeptical...

lemme know!

 

^^Detriot, I hear it can have an effect on the stereo system. Hopefully I get something out of it but I am mainly doing it as a "rice" mod so just to make the engine bay look a little better kinda like someone buying radiator caps.