fyi not sure if anyone noticed this on their g37s but at almost exactly 3k miles ( i noticed becasue I had my cv1's mounted at around 3001 miles) I noticed my intake became louder and my car pulled even harder. ANMVQ let me know when you hit 3k miles if you notice a boost.

 

You may have also learned that aftermarket parts don't do squat for actual power.

 

I disagree. Go look at mine. It read high, but relative to most I made much more than stock

 

Yes they do.

 

A) awd cars have a significant drive train loss when compared to rwd vehicles. B) driving habits do NOT matter when dynoing, thats absurd. C) you should have kept going until you had consistent pulls, just stopping like that when HP was increasing is ridiculous! D) you'll gain HP when your engine gets broken in more, give it another couple thousand miles. E) The biggest problem of all! Why would they dyno a 7AT in 4th gear? Thats the proper gear for 5AT's, you need to be in 5th gear for 7AT's!!! 4th gives you a 1.4 gear ratio, not the 1:1 you need!! 5th gives 1:1!!! I'd ask for my money back if I were you.

 

That redonkulous, there's dyno's all over this board showing gains. Non of them live up to the manufacturers claims, but to say they don't do squat is highly inaccurate.

 

I will let you know how my dyno does this weekend, from the results I see posted it sounds like 270 hp at the wheels is good for a 2010 G37s 7AT

 

Thanx man , I will know they should have keep pulling till the numbers stayed the same.. Also the gear I was in.. I asked around here and was told 4th gear?? I dont trust the run anyway casue it was still increasing with each pull. But EH threw $$$ away.. The guy doing the dyno had did not know what gear to be in either?.. I will be going and getting a tune on the 29th ( Day before my d day, so gift to myself) LOL An they are know for tuning VQ's so should be a better experience.

 

Yeah, just make sure they know what they're doing. 4th gear is the proper gear for 5at's. 7at's you use 5th. Here is the chart, you want to use the gear with the 1.000 gear ratio.

 

Yep people don't understand open loop and closed loop. A few WOT runs should be more than enough for the ECU to learn an open loop map after a new aftermarket part is installed. You can drive mostly closed loop for the rest of the car's ownership and it will have no effect on the open loop map once you go WOT.

Two cars with the same engine will have different dyno numbers depending on a million things, but not because of driving habits.

 

Actually thats not true for the 5AT. For some reason Osiris can't fix the speed limiter on the 5AT so dyno'ing in 4th will not work. Thats why everyone does it in 3rd with 5AT. This happened to me too. Did it in 4th the first time and got wierd numbers. Went back and did it in 3rd and it was MUCH better. The were able to tune it more accurately too.

 

wake,
The problem you are speaking of is that when trying to dyno a 5at car in 4th gear, the car hits the speed limiter before reaching redline. Most cars dynoed in 4th will only hit about 6500 rpm when they can go 7kish. You always want to dyno in a 1:1 gear ration for accurate horsepower and torque numbers. Doing dyno's in 3rd gear on a 5AT will allow you to hit redline because the mph of the wheels doesnt exceed the speed limiter. But, your horse power numbers are less accurate and usually read lower than reality because of the gearing. This method of using a different gear is only beneficial if you are trying to tune all the way to redline. Its pointless to do this if you are trying to get accurate hp/tq #'s. A tune all the way to redline is really only needed on HIGHLY modified cars, usually with forced indiction, that need steady AF mapping and other tweaks to ensure engine safety. Bolt on parts are not going to suddenly alter the AF ratio in the last 500 rpm's and cause damage. Stick to the rule, always use the 1:1 gear

 

More fuel and air generally means more power. Remember a combination of the two is what makes power, not just fuel.

A/F ratio will effect engine temp as well.
Higher engine temp = more power.
For Higher engine temp = lean out the A/F ratio.
Lower Engine Temp = dump more fuel and run rich.
More fuel to air ratio will be more reliable by decreasing engine temp but you will get less power.

Running rich is also bad for O2 sensors and the cat.

 

^^^^^^ It basically comes down to the fact you want the a perfect balance of air and fuel in the combustion chamber to give you the most powerful reaction with no leftovers, thus creating the greatest amount of power. You need the perfect amount of air to burn up all of the fuel. The perfect AF ratio is 14.7 in ideal circumstances, but with todays fuels and all the additives anything around 14 to 14.7 is good. Like Bo2 stated above, if you drop below 14 you are too rich, above 15 and you are too lean. Keep in mind this is not the same as when looking at a dyno. These ratios are under light loads on the engine. When cruising you should be around 14.5, but under heavy load and acceleration your engine will need to run rich due to the high heat created by running harder. A properly tuned car on a dyno run will have an AF ratio of about 12.5 - 13.00

 

respectively, i guess to a certain extent. next to nothing in comparison to fi, of course

10 grand for fi + new clutch work isn't cheap money for most