DIY: 2012 G37 AWD Starter Installation (My Experience)
2012 G37 AWD Starter Installation (My Experience)
An Alternative Method to Installing the Starter on a G37 AWD
The proper way to replace the starter on an AWD G37 is by creating space—jacking up the engine and pulling the starter out the front. However, if you want to avoid that, here’s an alternative method that works:
1. Remove the Following Components:
negative terminal on battery
• The cat bracket.
• The lower steering shaft:
• Mark the alignment of the steering shaft (Or take a pic) before removing it, as it must go back exactly how it was taken out to avoid misalignment.
• Secure the steering wheel with a seat belt to prevent it from spinning, which could damage the clock spring.
• The solenoid: Remove the two 10mm bolts holding it in place to remove the solenoid to allow the starter to be removed.
2. Wiggle the Starter Out:
• After removing these parts, carefully wiggle the starter out past the catalytic converter. The space is tight, but with patience, you can slide it through (had to turn my starter around).
3. Reassemble the Solenoid After Installing the Starter:
• Disassemble the new starter, then slide through the same gap under the car with solenoid hanging behind it, then bolt on the starter, and then reassemble solenoid from that point from under the vehicle.
• Carefully line up the solenoid at a weird angle while under the car. Ensure it slides into place without needing to force it when securing the screws. Forcing it can cause improper alignment of the plunger and fork.
4. Reassemble Everything in Reverse Order:
• Reinstall the solenoid, steering shaft (ensuring proper alignment), and cat bracket. Test the starter to ensure it functions correctly before fully securing everything.
This method avoids jacking the engine or removing the CV axle but requires patience and care during reassembly, especially with the solenoid because if you reassemble it wrong then as soon as u reconnect the battery the starter will keep spinning because the plunger (metal piece that sits on the spring) will be compressed and that tells the starter to spin. Hope this helps anyone out there.
The proper way to replace the starter on an AWD G37 is by creating space—jacking up the engine and pulling the starter out the front. However, if you want to avoid that, here’s an alternative method that works:
1. Remove the Following Components:
negative terminal on battery
• The cat bracket.
• The lower steering shaft:
• Mark the alignment of the steering shaft (Or take a pic) before removing it, as it must go back exactly how it was taken out to avoid misalignment.
• Secure the steering wheel with a seat belt to prevent it from spinning, which could damage the clock spring.
• The solenoid: Remove the two 10mm bolts holding it in place to remove the solenoid to allow the starter to be removed.
2. Wiggle the Starter Out:
• After removing these parts, carefully wiggle the starter out past the catalytic converter. The space is tight, but with patience, you can slide it through (had to turn my starter around).
3. Reassemble the Solenoid After Installing the Starter:
• Disassemble the new starter, then slide through the same gap under the car with solenoid hanging behind it, then bolt on the starter, and then reassemble solenoid from that point from under the vehicle.
• Carefully line up the solenoid at a weird angle while under the car. Ensure it slides into place without needing to force it when securing the screws. Forcing it can cause improper alignment of the plunger and fork.
4. Reassemble Everything in Reverse Order:
• Reinstall the solenoid, steering shaft (ensuring proper alignment), and cat bracket. Test the starter to ensure it functions correctly before fully securing everything.
This method avoids jacking the engine or removing the CV axle but requires patience and care during reassembly, especially with the solenoid because if you reassemble it wrong then as soon as u reconnect the battery the starter will keep spinning because the plunger (metal piece that sits on the spring) will be compressed and that tells the starter to spin. Hope this helps anyone out there.
2010 G37S Coupe (135K miles) Starter Removal & Installation Experience (Be Safe when you go under your car!!)
Hey I'm piggy tailing on your post since there seems to be no other posting for starter removal installation here. Thank you for posting this one and offer an alternative. It's great to have this forum so people can choose. Just replaced my starter on vehicle mentioned above a 2010 G37S Coupe and here are my 2 cents.
The Technical Manual STR-15 does have you disconnecting the "steering lower joint" as per ST-24 or ST-25 (without 4WAS or with 4WAS) and removing the engine mounting insulator (LH) mounting as per EM-69 then jack up the car to create more clearance.
This guy on youtube shows that very well:
.
However in my experience that is ultimately not necessary if you can gather patience and sometimes pause to rest as you maneuver twisting the starter counter clockwise, anti clockwise for some of you, as it comes out.
Here is the video I used without removing steering lower joint or engine mounting insulator.
.
Worth noticing a couple of things on that last video. Do remove the small bracket attached to the AC compressor (easy 10 mm bolt) and the bracket holding 2 rigid oil lines (another 10mm bolt). I also removed (screwdriver or needle nose) a connector at the bottom right and it's securing plastic attachment above (not ultimately necessary but it helped).
In my case when I removed the starter (original), the guiding nipples on the starter body stayed behind so I had to remove them before installing the new starter. If this happens and you don't remove those nipples, you will find out the body of the starter will not go all the way in because the new starter comes with nipples. NOWHERE in the technical manual or internet this gets talked about because those nipples are suppose to come out when you remove the starter but after 135K miles they didn't. I used a punch from the rear and patiently tap top and bottom of each until they came out. Mind you there are two, one for each bolt holding the starter.
Cost: March 2025
Dealer wanted about 1K for starter.
RockAuto options were $68 to $249. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ter+motor,4152
I chose this one because it's local and has LIFETIME warranty. Autozone $397 https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...chText=starter
Last BE SAFE when going under your car.
Hey I'm piggy tailing on your post since there seems to be no other posting for starter removal installation here. Thank you for posting this one and offer an alternative. It's great to have this forum so people can choose. Just replaced my starter on vehicle mentioned above a 2010 G37S Coupe and here are my 2 cents.
The Technical Manual STR-15 does have you disconnecting the "steering lower joint" as per ST-24 or ST-25 (without 4WAS or with 4WAS) and removing the engine mounting insulator (LH) mounting as per EM-69 then jack up the car to create more clearance.
This guy on youtube shows that very well:
However in my experience that is ultimately not necessary if you can gather patience and sometimes pause to rest as you maneuver twisting the starter counter clockwise, anti clockwise for some of you, as it comes out.
Here is the video I used without removing steering lower joint or engine mounting insulator.
Worth noticing a couple of things on that last video. Do remove the small bracket attached to the AC compressor (easy 10 mm bolt) and the bracket holding 2 rigid oil lines (another 10mm bolt). I also removed (screwdriver or needle nose) a connector at the bottom right and it's securing plastic attachment above (not ultimately necessary but it helped).
In my case when I removed the starter (original), the guiding nipples on the starter body stayed behind so I had to remove them before installing the new starter. If this happens and you don't remove those nipples, you will find out the body of the starter will not go all the way in because the new starter comes with nipples. NOWHERE in the technical manual or internet this gets talked about because those nipples are suppose to come out when you remove the starter but after 135K miles they didn't. I used a punch from the rear and patiently tap top and bottom of each until they came out. Mind you there are two, one for each bolt holding the starter.
Cost: March 2025
Dealer wanted about 1K for starter.
RockAuto options were $68 to $249. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ter+motor,4152
I chose this one because it's local and has LIFETIME warranty. Autozone $397 https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...chText=starter
Last BE SAFE when going under your car.
Last edited by camb003; Apr 6, 2025 at 12:13 PM.
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