Sounds like my starter is shot. Wouldn't start - just a click and no turning the engine over --- last weekend. Then it started the next day. (All of the other electrical components came up - dash, computer lights etc. and even connected to a jumper didn't make a difference. Pretty unlikely that it is a battery issue)

I know that this could be a relay etc. But I would like to replace the starter. Anyone have a recommendation for the actual starter - which brand would you buy? Amazon is full of $100 replacement parts, but rock and some other places have more expensive options - I would like to make sure that I buy something that someone has used and recommends. Any feedback is appreciated!

Also, for anyone who has replaced a starter wondering if you could rate the difficulty of the replacement from 1-10. I'm not a mechanic, obviously, but I am pretty handy so keep that in mind. I have watched some of the vids on youtube for this replacement and it looks pretty straightforeward, if a bit tricky to get the starter in and out of position.........

Thanks!

 

If you are 99.9i% confident the battery is not the issue, I would disconnect same and check the wiring connections at the starter first before trying to replace it.

There have been several reports over the years of the main wiring connection at the starter corroding causing issues. More often than not just disconnecting and cleaning the ring terminal solves the issue.

Not to say the starter can't be going bad but these Hitachi units are pretty robust.

 

Thanks for your response! That's a good idea. I wonder if the disconnect is simpler than removing the starter. Looks kind of like a mess to get in their either way.

 

^^^ Excellent advice.
I had this exact same issue in 2016 and the fix was to remove/sand the nut/washer on the thick wire that connects the starter.
If you jack up the front left, and remove the wheel, there is enough room to get your hand in there and disconnect/clean the connection.
*** Make sure to disconnect the batter first***

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...ml#post4088186

 

Once again @SonicVQ beat me to the punch, lol.

But, yes, DISCONNECT BATTERY FIRST, remove and clean ring terminal at starter, reconnect battery and go.


THEN. If the issue persists, you can look into replacing the starter. Me, personally, I would stick with OEM but you car / your wallet.

 

Thank you again for the responses!

I may try this today. Here's what's interesting.

The car took an extra press of the button last Saturday night to start and wouldn't start at all Sunday morning.

Sunday night I tried to demonstrate the issue to my son - who has a 2013 G37xs and recently had a starter issue - just to confirm that the sound etc. was the same as when his failed --- and the car started right up. It has started several times since then without an issue. I have driven it around on trips that I know start and end at my house - picking my kids etc up where I don't have to stop and restart the car anywhere beside my home.... And everything seems fine.

Does this sound like a dirty connector issue -- or maybe a failing starter that is just taking time to outright fail? Just looking for a few opinions.

 

Updated my post above with pic to show what needs to be checked.

Could be either/or. Corrosion/ loose terminals can present several odd electrical behaviours- across the board. Not just the starter. There is no one way of determining for certainty. Take a look at the terminals. If they appear good and tight then you can decide if you want to bother cleaning/ tightening or just replacing the unit entirely.

I am just suggesting you try the easiest/ cheapest option first. Ultimately, only you can decide what course to take.

I will say this... starter failures on these cars are rare. Two starter failures- as evidenced by your son's issue- is even rarer (even if it is a different car).

 

Thanks for the information. I will check the connection today.

I'm surprised that the prices of replacement starters are so varied. Mainly because they are so cheap on Amazon. i would expect the minimum price to be somewhere around $300-400.... But amazon has them for $75..... I'm sure that the quality varies.

 

OEM= Hitachi brand.

Anything other is going to be a cheap, Chinese imitation with, as you alluded to, has variable quality.

If you decide to replace just make sure there is some type of warranty in effect. While Amazon takes just about anything back, you need something greater than their 90-day nonsense.

Personally, I'd get a relatively new used unit off eBay and call it a day as I'm not even sure new Hitachi units are even available any more. Just my 10¢.