Austin713

Im interested in knowing this as well.

drkay

In for answer. I just ordered mine and am looking toward to the install. Going to be the car's first mod!

Austin713

I found it. if you follow the harness loom down from the button it terminates into a box under the steering column. from there you can strip back the loom and strip back the wire and splice in the wire. i would not reccomend T-taps as the wire is extremely small.

i got about 99% there, down to programming the unit, the light was red, then when i hit unlock to start the programming and put the FOB in the slot and pressed the brake, it seemed like everything was going good, then the flashing light just stopped. i havent been able to get it to come back, and im afraid the unit is fried or something. not sure what to do from here other than get a warranty replacement and swap it out.

Austin713

so i got it to program, but the remote start doesnt work. i get 7x led flashing when i try and 3x lock to start. i went in and tried starting from scratch, and now when i try and lock my car it wont even let me. it makes that rapid beeping sound that you get when you try and lock your car with the doors open, or key inside the car. im thinking they system now thinks i have left my key in there.

Any ideas??

Jestered

iTrader: (1)

I had the problem where I couldn't get the box to program once sticking the key in the key port, but figured out that's because of the over-ride switch on the DBALL. You would think that "On" means the DBALL is on, but it's not. The "On" means the over-ride is on, which in turn means the box is disabled. Once I turned the over-ride switch to "Off" then the key was able to be learned and everything was ok.

I'd first make sure that the over-ride switch is set to Off, not On. That should resolve the remote start problem. If not, I would perform a hard reset to get the box back to default. Then flash it with the correct firmware and settings again. Then go out and connect it to the car and start over with the programming to set it up. I bet that will fix the screwed up state that your box is currently in.

Also, make sure that you have the horn chirp on lock enabled or the remote start won't work. Good luck!

drkay

What do you mean by that? My G doesn't chirp when I unlock it. Only the parking lights flash.

I have received the dball2 + T harness and I plan on installing it this weekend.

Jestered

iTrader: (1)

I meant to say it should chirp when you lock the car with the fob and have fixed that in my prior post. It's normal for it to not chirp when you hit the unlock button. If the horn doesn't chirp when you hit the lock button on the fob, it won't remote start. You can enable that by holding down lock and unlock on the fob until the lights flash. Now when you hit the lock button the horn will chirp. It must be set this way for the remote start to work.

botlfed98

iTrader: (11)

i am confused on the 3 wires that you extend, where are these wires exactly?

Jestered

iTrader: (1)

They're part of the optional wire harness that you buy to make the install much easier. If you don't have the wire harness for the install, you can use the wires that came with the box, but you'll still have to extend those three wires that run from the driver side to the passenger side where those wires go.

botlfed98

iTrader: (11)

I'm confused....I don't see

Door lock output (green/black wire; keep connector pin on end)
Door unlock output (black/white wire; keep connector pin on end)
Door pin output (red/black wire; can remove connector pin as you are tapping wire)

Wires to tap:
PTS negative lead (solid brown wire)
Door Pin Output (BCM 40-pin green plug, wire 39 - mine way gray)

Wires to install:
Door lock output (BCM 40-pin green plug, pin 37 - plug wire into empty space)
Door unlock output (BCM 40-pin green plug, pin 15 - plug wire into empty space)

this is the colors I see on my plugs

botlfed98

iTrader: (11)

could somebody please take a look at their harness and compare it to mine or even possibly snap a picture of it?

Jestered

iTrader: (1)

It's these three:

Door lock output (green/black wire; keep connector pin on end)
Door unlock output (black/white wire; keep connector pin on end)
Door pin output (red/black wire; can remove connector pin as you are tapping wire)

You need to run those over to the passenger side to get to the green connector behind the passenger side kick plate nearest the door. Unless the wires you already have are long enough, which they likely will not be, you will need to extend them so they can reach all the way over there.

I'm assuming you are not using the optional wire harness, so I'm not sure you can even use the connector for the two wires that you're adding to the green connector (not tapping these, but adding them to empty slots on the connector). The optional wire harness has the factory connector pins on the end of those wires so you can slip them into the factory green connector. If you don't have those factory pins it's not possible to do this. You might have to tap into the needed wires somewhere else for those three wires.

Are you using the optional wire harness, or no?

botlfed98

iTrader: (11)

what do you mean by "optional" harness? I'm using the THINISS3 t-harness

botlfed98

iTrader: (11)

does anyone know the mfg p/n for the connector terminal pins? I'd like to get my hands on some rather than order another harness

drkay

I just installed the dball2 with T-harness in my 2012 xS coupe. I installed it using this DIY and did connect 3 wires to the BCM. While the unit did start the car, there were some very erratic behaviours. For instance, the doors would lock as soon as you tried to open one and the driver's window would open and close 3 times when you shut the car off. I contacted xpresskit and they told me to disconnect the "lock output" and "unlock output" leads at the BCM. I did so the everything works great. Sooo, I only the one extended wire to the BCM. I also looked at the install guide and it agrees. The unit gets "lock output" and "unlock output" over data.