DIY: Dball/dball2 installation diy
#16
Didn't see anywhere on here that discusses the violet wires. I programmed and installed mine, it flashes red, 7 times indicating no current at the violet wires.
Can anyone help with this?
Thanks
Tom
Can anyone help with this?
Thanks
Tom
#17
From the DBALL pdf, 7 flashes is the override switch is "ON". Try checking that switch again, I didnt come across using the violet wire at all.
Parking Light Error Codes
The parking lights on your vehicle will flash a specific number of times 3 seconds
following an unscheduled shutdown or failure to start. Each flashing pattern is
described below. Flashes Diagnostic:
1 Runtime expired.
2 Over-rev shutdown.
3 Low/No RPM.
4 Transmitter shutdown.
5 Brake shutdown.
6 Hood shutdown/Remote start safety override switch is ON*.
7 Remote start safety override switch is ON*.
The parking lights on your vehicle will flash a specific number of times 3 seconds
following an unscheduled shutdown or failure to start. Each flashing pattern is
described below. Flashes Diagnostic:
1 Runtime expired.
2 Over-rev shutdown.
3 Low/No RPM.
4 Transmitter shutdown.
5 Brake shutdown.
6 Hood shutdown/Remote start safety override switch is ON*.
7 Remote start safety override switch is ON*.
#20
Just Completed DBALL2 Install w/ T-Harness
Some of my thoughts from the install:
GET THE T-HARNESS!!! I can't tell you how much time and frustration this will save you. You will get all the wiring included with the DBALL2 but the T-Harness is separate. I paid $50 for mine and it was worth EVERY PENNY.
Other random-ordered thoughts:
1. Holy crap, that PTS tap (I soldered, etc.) was NOT fun. I took out the button, etc. but the wire feed isn't terribly long. If anyone has the time, it would be totally worth knowing where the wire is at the BASE of the factory loom's connection (meaning which loom, etc.) instead of trying to tap the wire near the PTS button itself. I spent some time looking but didn't find it too quickly so I gave up and tapped near button--but NOT my first choice.
2. I would definitely recommend REMOVING negative terminal from car battery for this install. Splicing wires can lead to grounded/ruined circuits even for careful individuals. Move your front seats all the way back and extend steering column fully PRIOR TO disconnecting battery.
3. When running the wire loom (which I also recommend) between driver's under-dash area to passenger under-dash area (from DBALL2 location to BCM), include an extra +/- 22 (18-24) AWG wire or two (attached to nothing at this point, just extra) in the loom in case a wire is bad or you later want to run something else to BCM from that area, etc.
4. Allow yourself plenty of time for the install--plan on something not working right, etc. I thought it would be a quick hour install...but due to confined space I was working in (couldn't open doors all the way), PTS button and BCM access issues, etc. the install took WAYYYYY longer than expected...
5. If you can, PM someone who has done the install BEFORE you attempt if you are unclear about ANY steps along the way. I had to stop what I was doing multiple times to come back to the computer to look something up, etc.
6. Get a pre-flashed DBALL2 and decide if you want the XLoader2 later. You probably won't be changing options very often. Reliable sellers will flash so it is plug-and-play.
General notes:
-Liquid electrical tape (or even craft hot glue) makes covering your splices (I splice by baring wire, wrapping, soldering, covering) MUCH easier.
-Be generous with your zip ties and TIE DOWN EVERYTHING so cables and wires don't rattle.
-Work patiently...you could potentially fry your BCM by working with live battery and accidentally grounding a wire. Take your TIME!
GET THE T-HARNESS!!! I can't tell you how much time and frustration this will save you. You will get all the wiring included with the DBALL2 but the T-Harness is separate. I paid $50 for mine and it was worth EVERY PENNY.
Other random-ordered thoughts:
1. Holy crap, that PTS tap (I soldered, etc.) was NOT fun. I took out the button, etc. but the wire feed isn't terribly long. If anyone has the time, it would be totally worth knowing where the wire is at the BASE of the factory loom's connection (meaning which loom, etc.) instead of trying to tap the wire near the PTS button itself. I spent some time looking but didn't find it too quickly so I gave up and tapped near button--but NOT my first choice.
2. I would definitely recommend REMOVING negative terminal from car battery for this install. Splicing wires can lead to grounded/ruined circuits even for careful individuals. Move your front seats all the way back and extend steering column fully PRIOR TO disconnecting battery.
3. When running the wire loom (which I also recommend) between driver's under-dash area to passenger under-dash area (from DBALL2 location to BCM), include an extra +/- 22 (18-24) AWG wire or two (attached to nothing at this point, just extra) in the loom in case a wire is bad or you later want to run something else to BCM from that area, etc.
4. Allow yourself plenty of time for the install--plan on something not working right, etc. I thought it would be a quick hour install...but due to confined space I was working in (couldn't open doors all the way), PTS button and BCM access issues, etc. the install took WAYYYYY longer than expected...
5. If you can, PM someone who has done the install BEFORE you attempt if you are unclear about ANY steps along the way. I had to stop what I was doing multiple times to come back to the computer to look something up, etc.
6. Get a pre-flashed DBALL2 and decide if you want the XLoader2 later. You probably won't be changing options very often. Reliable sellers will flash so it is plug-and-play.
General notes:
-Liquid electrical tape (or even craft hot glue) makes covering your splices (I splice by baring wire, wrapping, soldering, covering) MUCH easier.
-Be generous with your zip ties and TIE DOWN EVERYTHING so cables and wires don't rattle.
-Work patiently...you could potentially fry your BCM by working with live battery and accidentally grounding a wire. Take your TIME!
#24
When you hit the brake, do your interior lights come on and off quickly AND hear a beep from your dash? That's when I confirm I have taken over and the DBALL has disabled itself.
#25
did you buy it programmed with the Infiniti firmware?
and this seems like a good deal
Plug N Play Nissan Infinity RSR Remote Start Kit DBALL2 THNISS3 T Harness | eBay
and this seems like a good deal
Plug N Play Nissan Infinity RSR Remote Start Kit DBALL2 THNISS3 T Harness | eBay
They didn't mention the level of difficulty in the listing, but I was wondering if anyone had purchased/used this particular device. I'm gonna shoot the seller a message and I'll report back with his reply.
Also, as a disclaimer, my handle is DBall not because I work for the company, but because my name is Dan Ball... didn't know this thing existed til I got here...
#27
In the link above, I read "Plug N Play" to mean that I don't have to go get a soldering kit and, most importantly, don't need to tear my car apart too much to do this...
They didn't mention the level of difficulty in the listing, but I was wondering if anyone had purchased/used this particular device. I'm gonna shoot the seller a message and I'll report back with his reply.
Also, as a disclaimer, my handle is DBall not because I work for the company, but because my name is Dan Ball... didn't know this thing existed til I got here...
They didn't mention the level of difficulty in the listing, but I was wondering if anyone had purchased/used this particular device. I'm gonna shoot the seller a message and I'll report back with his reply.
Also, as a disclaimer, my handle is DBall not because I work for the company, but because my name is Dan Ball... didn't know this thing existed til I got here...
Otherwise the install is rather straight forward - a little electrical experience is suggested as you're extending a harness, running wires and tapping into vehicle control modules.
I'll get a video of how the DBALL should work properly with RSR
#28
It would be plug and play normally - the harness was originally meant to work with Nissan models that had the BCM on the driver side of the vehicle, which would eliminate the need to extend wires.
Otherwise the install is rather straight forward - a little electrical experience is suggested as you're extending a harness, running wires and tapping into vehicle control modules.
I'll get a video of how the DBALL should work properly with RSR
Otherwise the install is rather straight forward - a little electrical experience is suggested as you're extending a harness, running wires and tapping into vehicle control modules.
I'll get a video of how the DBALL should work properly with RSR
#30
Premier Member
iTrader: (1)
I've ordered the DB-all, loader and wire harness to instal this kit. The wire harness will be here on Saturday and the other stuff later next week. I'm planning on doing the more involved part of installing the wire harness this weekend. Then when I get the box and loader I can simply plug in the box, configure it with the loader, then be done. A few questions:
1. I assume there's nothing wrong with installing the wire harness before having the actual box. It's not going to cause the car to not start or behave any differently, right?
2. Has anyone found a way to splice into the PTS wire under the steering column? Or does it have to be done near the button?
3. The DIY mentions the exact open BCM ports to add the wires, as well as the color of the wire at the PTS. Are these the same on all years? I just want to make sure that I'm connecting wires where they should be for my vehicle ('08 G37S). I haven't heard anyone mention that it's different for different years, but wanted to ask to be sure.
The install itself appears to be pretty simple, so I'm excited to get all this stuff and get it working!
1. I assume there's nothing wrong with installing the wire harness before having the actual box. It's not going to cause the car to not start or behave any differently, right?
2. Has anyone found a way to splice into the PTS wire under the steering column? Or does it have to be done near the button?
3. The DIY mentions the exact open BCM ports to add the wires, as well as the color of the wire at the PTS. Are these the same on all years? I just want to make sure that I'm connecting wires where they should be for my vehicle ('08 G37S). I haven't heard anyone mention that it's different for different years, but wanted to ask to be sure.
The install itself appears to be pretty simple, so I'm excited to get all this stuff and get it working!
Last edited by Jestered; 07-19-2014 at 08:54 PM.