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DIY: Clean your Throttle Bodies

Old Jul 11, 2013 | 12:37 PM
  #151  
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I'm installing Injen short ram this weekend, my car has 40,000 miles on it i am definitely going to clean the throttle bodies while I'm at it and under the hood even though i don't have rough idles or anything.
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 05:50 PM
  #152  
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Great DIY. My rpms would drop after getting off the highway at my first stop. Problem gone. I just did this today and it was not difficult at all. This is coming from a noob who is a chicken sh*t when it comes to working on cars...especially engines. Thanks!
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 10:29 PM
  #153  
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Just cleaned my TBs at 69K miles. The car responds much better and does not feel sluggish anymore. Great DIY!!!!
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 10:41 AM
  #154  
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IMO your don't need to remove the TB as described. The purpose of cleaning the TB is remove deposits that sit between the TB and plate as it opens/closes. I simply open the plate GENTLY and spray a little TB cleaner on the right and left hinge of the plate, then use a toothbrush to gently scrub the base up/down where the plate makes contact with the TB. The I take a rag, spray a little TB cleaner on it and run it along the edge of the plate. Have been doing it this way for years per instruction I got from a GMC tech.

What I don't see people mentioning here which also should be done at the same time is clean the MAF sensor. DO NOT USE TB CLEANER ON THE MAF SENSOR! There is a special spray for that which you can get at any auto parts store. I have cleaned MAF sensors and not TBs before and noticed improved engine/idle performance.
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Old Nov 3, 2013 | 01:45 PM
  #155  
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Thank you Drifter for this DIY. My car recently stalled and was having rough idle issues. I had a feeling it may have had to do with the throttle bodies. Big thanks for your help and contribution. Cars running great now!
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 03:31 PM
  #156  
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I performed the TB clean as described on my '08 with 70K miles. About the same time, I had one Air/fuel sensor throw a fault, so I replaced it and reset the code. The local Infiniti dealer had a special on oil changes 50% off, so I let them change it. They performed air/fuel induction system service and said that my air induction system is dirty. Are they blowing smoke up my A$$ or should I clean the TB's again? One last question, would the remove/replace of the NG sensor have something to do with the test showing that the A/F is dirty?
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:33 PM
  #157  
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Just curious if anyone performed this with car at "On" position? I'm asking because I would like to know if at "On" position can activate the throttle plate by pressing the gas pedal so then there's no worry about throwing codes if manually lift the plate.
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 10:50 PM
  #158  
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From: fl
just did this diy and followed the video and didn't move the valves and now the car idles higher and runs worst than before...

But I will try to reset the ecu tomorrow hopefully that will work.

Last edited by malady; Dec 8, 2013 at 02:03 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 03:48 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by malady
just did this diy and followed the video and didn't move the valves and now the car idles higher and runs worst than before...

But I will try to reset the ecu tomorrow hopefully that will work.
Was everything ok after you reset the ECU?

I just cleaned my TBs yesterday and did all of the resets successfully from what I can tell but I never disconnected the battery. However, my idle moved from 650 rpm (before cleaing) to 800 rpm (after cleaning and relearnings). Before, the tach needle stayed put at 650 in idle but my car would shake and shiver. Now the shake and shiver is mostly gone but my rpm is constantly moving a little up and down the 800 rpm mark when in idle.

The weirdest part is that whenever I go into neutral while moving, the rpms go down to around 800 rpm then jumps up to ~1,300 rpms and hangs there for a few seconds before dropping back to 800 rpm. This happens every single time I go to neutral from gear when the car is moving. I'm going to try to disconnect my negative terminal for 24 hours this weekend and see if that works.
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 06:18 PM
  #160  
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I disconnected the battery for about 5 minutes

It did help but now the car downshifts are not smooth when slowing down anymore, the rpm will pop up like how you are describing.

I am going to give it some more time but it looks like I might have to bring it to the dealer, maybe they can re-flash my ecu or replace my tb since I have extended warranty.
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 09:08 PM
  #161  
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TakmaN
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Originally Posted by malady
I disconnected the battery for about 5 minutes

It did help but now the car downshifts are not smooth when slowing down anymore, the rpm will pop up like how you are describing.

I am going to give it some more time but it looks like I might have to bring it to the dealer, maybe they can re-flash my ecu or replace my tb since I have extended warranty.
Thanks for the response and hope you get your issues sorted out. I unfortunately no longer have warranty so if the ECU unplug reset fails, more $ to drop at the mechanic... yay...
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Old Dec 15, 2013 | 03:55 PM
  #162  
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From: Forney, Tx
Thank you posting this diy! It was a good reminder that mine needed to be cleaned.
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 03:15 PM
  #163  
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I didn't know it was this easy! I need to clean mine since I don't think the previous owner cleaned it and my car now has 71k miles! maybe I will clean it this weekend depending on the weather. Thanks for the DIY
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 08:43 PM
  #164  
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Samer Serhan
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I'm going to do this sometime this week if the weather gets nicer. My idle is rough as hell, I vibrate in my seat (around 500-600 rpm) is that normal?

Anyways, I'm afraid of this butterfly valve, i've read some ppl have had issues by tampering with it. When I clean the throttle body, can I touch it with the cloth, how easy is it to depress (considerable force needed?), or should I just scrub away near/above it but not acutally touch it. Can I simply spray it down with the cleaner solution.

Thanks!
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 02:43 PM
  #165  
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PERMAT
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I did this yesterday afternoon.

What was the 8mm socket wrench for?

I only used a 10mm socket wrench (to remove the engine cover), a 5mm hex key, and pliers.
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