In retrospect, that vette spring (stock one) actually looks quite beefy with respect to the tire gauge.

I was going to order from one of the group buys elsewhere, but looked like they all ended. I even drove out to mcmaster on saturday to see if I could find something that would fit. No luck there. No luck at ace hardware either.

So I started my own group buy - Link

 

FOUND HERE:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/3352581-post111.html

 

So is it ok to drive with no spring? I'm not going to hurt my clutch am I? I just removed mine, took all of 60 seconds, and it feels great! I just dont want to damage anything. I'd rather have vagueness in clutch feel than damage the clutch or flywheel.

 

I suggest rereading this thread and others (both on here, the g35 and 370z sites) to gain a better understanding about what the spring does, how it does it, why it's there, and when it is active.

Just because someone tells you something (and this is applicable to any forum), you should not accept that answer at face value. Do your own research and the answer will be obvious

 

I read through the thread, especially where your posts where you mentioned it potentially being harmful after reading about it on the vettes, and from what I gather ( i did not read the other forums yet) its fine to run no spring. I just wanted to double check. some reassurance is always nice, thanks for the help Jsolo.

 

Without actually seeing the internals of the master cylinder, it's hard to tell if the G uses a similar design or not. That was one of the reasons I opted to still have a spring in there. Like you, I preferred the feel with no spring at all, but the slight play at the top of the pedal stroke bothered me. Given the minimal effort needed to move the pedal at this point, I'd suspect the design is different from the vette. It just feels like freeplay. If there was any fluid being moved at this point, I would think there'd be a slight resistance.

Anyways, by having the weaker spring, I'm assured the pedal will always be at the full top position.

Do a threads started search on my screen name. Look for the group buy thread. In the first post, I link to the 370Z site. In that long thread, I believe there were some other references to the g35 site as well.

 

Yeah, I looked through the group buy thread. I'll have to read through the other forums tomorrow when I'm not so tired and lazy lol. But I agree, it feel like just dead slop, no resistance which makes logical sense that it would be fine, I just wanted to be 100% sure. I know the group buy is over, so I may just have to find a spring of less resistance until another group buy comes around, but from what I've read, others have had a hard time finding something that would work from hardware stores.

 

ok i did this mod about 1 year ago.. 3 months ago my clutch and flywheel had to be replaced idk if it was do to the mod! As the mechanic was installing my new clutch and flywheel he told me that my Master Cylinder was taking wayyyy to long to bleed ! So i told him about this little mod i did. He put the spring back and whallaa !! ****s working properly !! Lol funny right? then i drove the car off with the spring still installed. for some reason i now like it better with the spring ..

 

So did you run without ANY spring for the year and a bit?

Or - did you have a reduced pressure spring in place of the original OEM spring?

 

Need more info. What year car, how many miles. What exact mod did you do? Did you make other adjustments to the pedal? How was your mechanic bleeding the clutch?

The spring is compressed when the pedal is at the full top stroke, so it's actually working against the pressure plate in this position. I really don't see how the spring could have affected the clutch bleeding.

I suspect your mechanic ran the system dry. Once there's no fluid in the line, it can be a bit of a pain to get primed and bled.

 

Yes i agree he could of ran the system dry bc it was PITA to bleed he even told me to replace my Master Cylinder..! But yea im not blaming this mod for noting that when wrong just reporting my experience.

Its an 08 S coupe, has 68k! Used this mod without any spring at all for about an year until clutch went out! When i put the spring back it felt so much better... idk this mod might just a psychological thing.. I took it out though it was great . installed it back after a year and im loving it..

 

Although I strongly believe one can get 100K+ miles out of an OE clutch, it all boils down to how the car is driven. From reading way too many clutch related threads on here, 60-80K seems to be the average miles a clutch lasts on the G's.

Did you go with an OE clutch or high performance? IIRC, BB said in one of his threads that going with a higher performance clutch resulted in the stock spring being quite usable. Beefier pressure plates have greater clamping force which negates some of the assist of the spring.

I removed the spring within a week of buying my '12, and replaced it shortly there after with the weaker spring. There was a distinct difference in feel between stock spring, no spring, and weaker spring. The difference in the last 2 was less than the first two setups. With an aftermarket/high perf clutch, feel might be different. FWIW, when it is time to go with a new clutch for mine, I'll probably end up with a stage 2/3 arrangement.

 

MY OEM clutch went out at 40k miles cuz i bought the car used. (the owner b4 me had must had no clue how to drive manual). SO i bought a south stage 2 clutch. southbend billet steel flywheel, and a heavy duty fly slave cylinder. i still have a hard time feeling the clutch when changing gears. Also there is a play at the very top of the pedal. Sometimes its so bad that i have to use my foot to pull it back to the very top. I havnt tried Clutch fix #1 or 2. After reading hundreds of posts im still confused on what fix (1 or 2) would benefit me more?


PS

At idle the clutch is louder than the freaking exhaust

 

One fix adjusts how far off the floor the pedal starts to grab, or how high up it returns.

The other fix (the one this thread is about) has to do with pedal feel. You could try removing the assist spring to see if it improves your feel. A stage 2 clutch is relatively heavier duty compared to stock, with a stronger pressure plate. The aid of the stock assist spring should be helpful in this case, as with no spring or weaker spring, the pedal effort would be quite high.

How would you characterize the pedal effort needed now compared to before clutch replacement? More effort needed or less?

 

My OEM bit the dust at 60K. I know how to drive a manual. I have the exact same setup as you do except mine is stage III. I like the stiffer pedal but you are absolutely correct about it still not being linear. Modme posted a thread about the only real fix for this - a modified and adjustable clutch pedal/arm assembly from RJM Performance. Everything else is putting a band aid on a gunshot wound. I know because I've tried.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...al-system.html
370Z & G37 Pedal Assemblies - *RJM Performance.com