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DIY: Reversing the shift direction for 5AT

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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 05:55 PM
  #46  
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Will you be reversing the paddle shifters too? :P
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 12:33 PM
  #47  
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very interesting.
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 08:13 PM
  #48  
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So I know this thread was started like 2 years ago, but i just wanted to give my 2 cents...

I have an 08 Sedan V36 with the 5AT.
I love the Manual/Sport mode, but I must I was immediately frustrated with the whole "pull back and shift down" thing.

I had a couple high rev "whoops" moments comming out of a turn.

I did this mod and have to say 12fear, you are a GENIUS.

It was a pain in the **** getting those pins in/out, but other than that, smooth sailing.

The car now shifts like performance cars were meant to shift.

12fear, I dont even know if you're still around, but if you are, how the heck did you know which pins to switch?

p.s.- 1st post! whoohoo!
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 03:11 PM
  #49  
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If anyone with an '09 or '10 with the 7AT is interested in this mod, I just checked the wiring diagrams in the 2010 G37 service manual and it shows the same wires that are switched in the 5AT (violet [pin 2] and blue [pin 3]) need to be switched for the 7AT as well.
The attached diagram shows the location of these two wires in the connector.


Originally Posted by Ryuken09
Actually the idea for this mod came from BMW and Mazda, the only 2 companies that seem to get it right when it comes to this sort of automated shifting. Many automotive journalists seem to agree that pulling backward for upshifting feels more natural that pushing forward.

For me, it's the feeling of going with the sensation of being pushed back into my seat that makes pulling equate to upshifting. Likewise, as I brake it feels more natural to push forward to downshift as momentum is pushing me forward in a rapidly decellerating car.

BTW I have a 7AT and would LOVE to get a DIY on this mod as well as a way to reverse the "+" & "-" on my shift plate.
Attached Thumbnails Reversing the shift direction for 5AT-shift_sel_pinout.jpg  
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 05:47 AM
  #50  
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does this wrk on the 7at?!?
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 03:20 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Lime37
does this wrk on the 7at?!?
Yes, it works on the 7AT.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 01:52 PM
  #52  
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Where can I find a wire removal tool for the harness? Went to Radio Shack and they didn't have one.

I tried using a tiny screwdriver, a bobbypin, and even a needle... nothing would release the stubborn little wires. Any techniques anybody who has done this may have to release the wire would be appreciated... everything else was easy.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 01:56 PM
  #53  
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don't try to pull the wires out of the harness, they are very tough to get out and you could end up ruining the harness in the car which is very expensive. it's much easier just to cut the wires that run into the harness a ways up and reverse then at that point.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 02:42 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by oct2274
don't try to pull the wires out of the harness, they are very tough to get out and you could end up ruining the harness in the car which is very expensive. it's much easier just to cut the wires that run into the harness a ways up and reverse then at that point.

That's what I was thinking of doing because I couldn't get the damn wires out... not sure how people are removing from the harness without a specially designed tool

I may just cut, reverse, and splice together... gotta do something!

I just sold my E46 M3 and continue to downshift instead of upshift... seems strange and a little queer to push up when your accelerating and being pushed back in your seat...
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 03:35 PM
  #55  
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So I bit the bullet, and just cut the wires... then connected them with a butt splice connector. Much easier than removing the wires from the harness!

Last edited by Infinite.G; Aug 20, 2010 at 12:19 AM.
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 12:22 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by G37Sam
Will you be reversing the paddle shifters too? :P
I was considering converting my heated seat buttons to shifters instead ... then I can feel like I'm at work, typing at my desk, while I'm driving.

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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 02:21 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Infinite.G
So I bit the bullet, and just cut the wires... then connected them with a butt splice connector. Much easier than removing the wires from the harness!
The missing instruction for removing the pins from the connector is that besides removing the front cover of the connector, the one with the holes, you also have to pry back the clip retention piece on the underside of the connector. You can then easily slide a small hobby screwdriver under the clip at the front of the pins and they pop right out. This piece has a "stair step" like locking mechanism, don't let it pop back in place, keep it held back while you push the pin in from the front.

Why would you do this mod? It just makes sense, in a 6 speed manual the higher gear shifts (most of them) are down. 1st is up, etc. Besides my MR2 Spyder shifts the "right" way and it was driving me nuts. I didn't think I'd be sport shifting at all with th G37x, but I'm still coming to grips with reality at just how badly the logic is in the auto's shifting. It overreacts when you don't want it to and under-reacts at other times, ie with my foot to the floor. I thought I could deal with a modern automatic after driving my wife's Lexus IS a bit, that car always seems to be in the right gear, my G37x almost never is. My only complaint so far.

Thanks for the article, I was looking for this.
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 01:43 PM
  #58  
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^ This was the first mod I did after tinting my windows... tinting windows is a necessity not a mod. I felt like a gimp with a limp wrist pushing up when upshifting... just felt completely awkward and unnatural. Though the automatic tranny is nothing near what I had with my E46 M3 SMG, I'm enjoying much more with the reversed directional shifts.

Can't wait to get my grounding wires installed and see how the shift speeds are improved!
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 05:08 AM
  #59  
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Just did this mod tonight. Here are some suggestions for those who are having trouble. I used a very precision screwdriver set (used for small components - can be bought for about $10 here).

The front "faceplate" can be pried off with a thin "-" screwdriver (I used the one labeled "1.0" from the toolset above). It will expose all of the connector heads.

There is a pair of holes on the right side that do not have any wires in it. If you look inside, you will see a little white **** that can be pushed up - that is the "locking" mechanism keeping the wires from being pulled out.

With the same "-" screwdriver, wedge it gently between the white **** and metal part of the wire you want to take out. While wedging, use your fingernail to push on the exposed wire heads - it should slide out.

I wish I took photos, but it was hard in my parking garage, especially because most of the steps above took both hands. Good luck!
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 03:45 PM
  #60  
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Does this effect the action of the paddle shifters?

Or, do they stay the same?
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