BLKG37X

iTrader: (-1)

Thank you George, I will try it over the weekend

RaiderSuby

iTrader: (1)

Hi George,
thanks for all the info here and at your website. I bought a few detailing product from you but I am not sure if I am using some of them correctly.

For example for sealant and wax, after applying them on the car ( i did 1 panel at a time), how long should I wait before wiping them off with MF towel?

Also, I got some CG Grime Reaper and mixed it to 1:5 ratio. I used that on my wheels and some of the brake dust/dirt came off, but i have to brush them to get everything out. Is that right? how long should I let the GR sit in the wheel before raising off? should I spray the wheels with water first before using GR?

Thank you

risin

iTrader: (1)

I usually use zanio but want something easier. I've already bought optimum wax and clay bar. I want to polish my car and need to buy a few things. I'm going to buy the porter cable, polish, and pads. I need recommendation on the polish and pads. I looked at my paint and I don't see any swirl marks. I'm thinking I need a finish polish and a white pad. I would also like to make my tires shine, can you recommend something that doesn't fling off.

Thanks

jmark

George,

I am looking at a AIO for my new 09 G37S. It doesn't need the full polish treatment. I am looking at the Optimum (OPT) Poli-Seal. What are your recommendations? Thanks, Mark

djsk

Hi George,

Got a question about claying. I can clay my car even if I'm not planning to polish it right? Also if I plan on claying, should I still use a 50/50 alchol/water mixture on my car to remove the old sealant, or does the clay take that off?

If i do need to use the alchol mixture, should i use it before or after my claying?

Also do you have a free shipping coupon? Im only buying some yellow pads and tire dressing applicator with one clay bar and the shipping is pretty high.

Thanks!

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

No problem. How'd it turn out?

Depending on what sealant you are using, you can remove it after a panel or two or you can simply apply it to the entire car and remove it when completed. If you are topping it with a wax, you should wait 24 hours after you remove the sealant to let it fully cure and bond to the paint before applying it. Your best bet is to wait until the first time you wash it after the sealant has been applied, makes the wash a bit more fun

Regarding the GR on your wheels, it's not really designed to be a wheel cleaner, but I can assure you unless you using something very powerful, like Meguiar's Wheel Brightener with a pressure washer, you'll almost always need to scrub a bit with any product. I wouldn't let the Grime Reaper sit for more than 30 seconds to a minute before agitating it with a soft sponge, brush, mitt or microfiber towel. Rinse and repeat as needed. I'm hoping you have stock OEM wheels, otherwise GR could potentially damage a high polished finish.

Hope that helps.

Your best bet would be to go with something like Menzerna Power Finish as a medium / light polish using a white pad like you said. For more depth and gloss or if you had a dark colored car, you may want to follow up with something finer, typically paired with PO85RD using black pads. If you didn't want to invest in two polishes, you could finish down Power Finish using black pads after you use the white to ensure there no hologramming left behind, but this would probably only be noticeable on darker colored vehicles if at all when polished properly.

As for a tire dressing, the key to no sling is properly prepping your tires. This means cleaning them (usually done as the first thing as you wash your car) using an all purpose cleaner and scrubbing them with a medium / firm brush. This will get any previous dressing off the tire and prep it to absorb the new dressing. As for a dressing that won't sling, consider either Poorboy's World Bold 'n Bright or Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel. Both products work great and have a medium gloss to them, not a super high gloss finish, but they typically won't fling off onto your paint.

Let us know how everything turns out for you.

Poli-Seal is an excellent option as an AIO. This will remove some minor imperfections as well as lay down a nice layer of protection. I just used the Dodo Juice Need 4 Speed Cleaner Wax on my brothers car and was impressed as well. I used this after polishing to remove any oils and to prep the surface for waxing. It certainly wouldn't last as long as the Poli-Seal but it looks damn good and I like to use it on more than just the paint. Klasse AIO is another great All In One, but it is non-abrasive, similar to the Need 4 Speed, but lays down a sealant layer instead of a wax layer. Any of those 3 options are great and they all have their perks.

You can clay your car even if you don't plan on polishing, however, when you clay sometimes it can leave behind some micro-marring that requires polishing to remove so this is why many people will polish after they clay. Also, it's the time your surface is contamination free, giving your polishing the best possible results.

After polishing, a simple re-wash would be fine to help remove the clay bar residue and any loose contamination still on the paint. You don't have to go as far as the alcohol wipe down. If anything you'd do the alcohol wipe down after your first wash and prior to claying to strip the protection before you clay. Using a clay bar will remove a majority of the protection, especially if it's older, but sometimes it can leave some behind, it's not 100%.

We have a promo coming up mid May with a discount + free shipping if you want to hold off for that, as of now there's no free ship coupon available.

Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

All the best,

George

jmark

^ Thanks George. Order placed. I think I'll try the OPT Poli-Seal and the Dodo Cleaner wax too.

RaiderSuby

iTrader: (1)

Thanks George, I bought the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger. I did the whole car first then wipe them off, I will start doing the 2 panels/wipe then. I read it here somewhere that I should wait 12 hours before adding the wax. I guess I will wait for 24hr now.

I still have OEM wheels so I am ok, I will buy some of the Meguiar's Wheel Brightener next time when I order something.

Thanks again

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Sounds good, keep us posted on what you think of them.

You probably would be fine with the 12 hour cure time, I think Wet Diamond is actually around 8 according to Blackfire... but a general rule of thumb is 24 hours for a sealant and 12 - 24 hours for a wax.

Be sure to dilute the Wheel Brightener and follow the directions accordingly. That's one product you don't want to sit too long, regardless of OEM or aftermarket wheels. Here's a good article to read over about the Meguiar's Wheel Brightener.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

808MIKE

iTrader: (1)

WHat can i use on my cars Leather Steering wheel? I currently use the Zaino leather cleaner and conditioner on my Seats, and Aerospace 303, on the rest of the interior panels. Want something that is not shiny or slippery to protect my steering wheel? is there any such thing? LOL

BLKG37X

iTrader: (-1)

It's the weirdest thing... I went to the car in the morning to buy the scratchX, and I look at the car, and almost all the marks are gone. It's almost like it healed itself over the period of couple of days. And I'm not sure if it was the Macquire quick detailer that needed some time to kick in, or whether it was the paint itself which is supposed to be self healing

By the time I bought the scratchX it started to rain, and I didn't get a chance to use it yet. But I'm looking forward to getting rid of the rest of the marks that the quick detailer left behind.

Thank you very much for your advice George.

motobonsai

I have a brand new black g37.

But I tried a clay bar in a couple of spots To try and remove some hard water spots,before I put on a sealer.

Now I have marks where I used the clay bar. It looks like a dull surface scratching or dullness/marring. And the water spots remain. While I can live with the barely noticable spots the marring is annoying.

What can I use to get rid of it by hand.

I bought some swirl x. Should I try that?

I would go to a pro detailed but I can't find a good one in the Boston area.

SkylineEX-S

George,

What product would you use to remove the hi-temp rustproofing wax that is applied in the engine bay. I hate the sticky feeling that it leaves behind and dust/dirt also gets stuck to it quickly.

I was wondering about chemical guys grime reaper or is there something else...?
WD40 does get it off but very slowly and only with a lot of scrubbing.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Try applying the 303 with a damp towel, then follow up and buff it dry. This should leave a completely matte finish on your wheel (or any surface for that matter). If you want to try something else, I like the Optimum Protectant Plus also as a non-greasy, UV protectant and cleaner in one. Let me know if that 303 trick works for you.

It could have been any one of the things you mentioned. Glad to hear that everything worked out.

Contact Rick Nelson at Unique Car Care, I can PM you his e-mail if you like. He was rated one of the best detailers in the US by Autoweek and is very talented.

You can try the SwirlX but you may not get the results you are looking for. Ideally, you could get a Polishing Pal, some 4" white polishing pads and some M205 to get some of the best results you'd see by hand without spending the money on a buffer.

I'd go one of those two routes, or look into a quality buffer setup.

You could go with all APC, that'd be my first approach. Grime Reaper would work, P21S Total Auto Wash, Optimum Power Clean, any quality APC would be a good start. I'm sure it'll still require a little work, but that'd be where I started.

Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

George

motobonsai

"Contact Rick Nelson at Unique Car Care, I can PM you his e-mail if you like. He was rated one of the best detailers in the US by Autoweek and is very talented."


Yes please I would love that email.

Also I was looking into buying a polishing setup. But I am afraid I have no experience and I will mess up my paint.

Also thank for your quick response.

We all love that you monitor this thread with devotion.

I buy all my supplies from detailed image