Here is the deal:
150k Miles
Manual Transmission
Good and many service reports (50)
No reported crashes
Exterior is flawless
Interior is in great condition
..Got it checked at a mechanic
Horn doesnt work and airbag light is on (mech said most likley new clock spring will fix) $850
Alignment or suspension is causing car to move slightly left
(hopefully that isnt from a crash)-mech said up to $168 to get the baby aligned if it is bad.
Parking break doesnt fully work- isnt this a popular issue? He said either $130 to tighten it or up to $300 for replacement (most likley tighten)
Engine had a misfire- mech estimated anywhere $300-$800 to tune it up.

Obviously this shook me a little and I think the mechanic could tell. I talked to him for a while and he assured me that the car is in good condition and it is a quality car. He didnt think any of these issues were BIG.

I talked with the mechanic and a few other people at the desk in the shop. The consusus that the car is OK but the dealer are definitley slimey as hell for trying to sell me something that wouldn't pass inspection. Original listing price was 11.3k and I'm comfortable telling them $10,150 is as high as I could go because of the costs to make it past inspection.

Also side note, previous owner added a police radio mod plug in thing in the car which I think stops the power to the front cigerette lighter. Or maybe a blown fuse, which could cause other problems. Besides all that there was an HVAC scan code that popped up, but I tested the ac and heat and they all worked up front.

I usually would just let this be and move onto the next but ive only found one comprable one to this with 100k miles but it is very far and would have to pay probably 1k for shipping. Which ya know, if it is for a better car I might be for it. But I've never seen this car in person so I honestly am not really considering that one too much. My other option would be to get paddle shifters and not the manual. But honestly I'm into the manual. So I would probably look elsewhere for a sporty manual convertible. I like the miata but I really do need back seats (or I get a cheap miata and a cheap suv or van).

If you had it this far thanks. Let me hear your input.
Price 11.3k ive haggled to 10.8k I am prepared to say 10,150 final. Thank you.

 

I would walk UNLESS you are mechanically adept and can handle most of the repairs yourself. In those terms you can think of it as a "project car." If you are not skilled and will be paying a mechanic to do every little job, I would pass. You will end up paying him more than the car is worth. The car is barely worth $6-8K IMO.

The SRS light is likely the passenger seat occupancy sensor. This is a known issue for these cars. The dealer will want to charge you to buy a whole new seat cushion for around $4K. There is a "emulator" that many folks use to bypass this sensor for around $100.

Did the mechanic scan for any codes? Is he familiar with Nissan/ Infiniti? A quality scan tool will pull any and all codes from every part of the car, including SRS.

While it is possible that the clock spring has issues- these type of failures are VERY rare for these cars. Do all the other buttons work (cruise/ volume)? Do they light up at night? If it is the clock spring, was the airbag deployed? Being that the car does not track straight does not jive well with me either. Just because a crash wasn't reported does not mean it did not happen. Too many unknowns for me.

Parking brake likely either needs adjusted or the rear shoes need to be replaced. Not uncommon and considered a "wear and tear" maintenance item.

Early models were known to have issues with the oil gallery gasket. While this issue does not affect each and every car it is something to consider and be aware of especially since the engine has issues. Only a oil pressure test can verify this potential issue. That repair can run a few grand depending on shop. It is not a hard job, just time consuming.

How is the top operation? The early models were prone to having "flipper" failures due to cheap, plastic gears. Of course, the dealer will sell you a new flipper assembly for around $1K. There are aftermarket gears available for a few hundred depending on source but, then again, labor.

Then there are little bits of odds/ ends/ quirks that these cars exhibit that would need to be addressed in due time. Don't get me wrong. I, too, am "looking" for a 'Vert, but I am able to do 95% of the work should issues arise. All I can say is follow your gut. A 6MT 'Vert is going to be a rare find. Ultimately, you have to decide what work you can do and/ or how deep in your pocket do you want to reach for your wallet.

 

So I am not a mechanic I am not confortable doing these repairs. The mechanic I took it to, I dunno I dont think he is use to working out infitis or st least this one because he said the top didnt work when it was because the trunk flap wasnt up.
The used car dealer scanned it. Here are the codes that scanned:
p0300 CYRRENT MULTI CYL MISFIRE
U0164 Current Lost Comm (HVAC)
p1212 1t TVS/CIRC
u1001 1t CAN COMM CIRCUIT
B1018 1t OCCUPANT SENS [UNIT FAIL]

 

I would walk away.

The roof doesn't work because of the flap= stripped gear (known issue). At least $1K to fix/ replace. Not to mention the other idiosyncrasies the roof exhibits from time to time.

U1001= CANBUS COM ERROR- basically means the cars network is not operating fully. This is likely why you also have the U0164 (CANBUS error with the Unified Meter Amp (HVAC)) and the P1212 (CANBUS error with the ABS module). These can be costly to diagnose and repair. It could be as simple as a broken wire or bad connection, or as complex as faulty modules.

P0300 is a generic code that can be a real pain in the bum to diagnose. A "tune up" will likely not solve this code.

The B1018 "Occupancy Sensor" is the reason your SRS light is on. This sensor is molded into the passenger seat cushion. As mentioned above, Infiniti does not sell the sensor itself, you have to buy the whole bottom cushion for around $4K. There is a emulator that bypasses this sensor for $100. This will, technically, be the easiest fix for this issue.

Unless you can get it for a steal (≈$5K) I would RUN AWAY. Just my 10¢.

 

I hear you. The bypass would allow the airbag to work right? it would just turn the light off? I'll keep looking. It is tough for me to find a reliable manual convertible with back seats. I'll keep looking though. I found a Q60 but it is 35k 😅. Also the roof works. I said the mechanic doesnt know how the car works. In the G37 and Q60 verts you have to put the compartment flap up in the trunk.

 

Gotcha. The separator (in the trunk) is different than the side "flipper" arms. Both have their own "mood 'swings'" (no pun intended). Harmless misunderstanding.

The "Occupancy Sensor," which failed (per the code), turns OFF the airbag when nobody is in the seat. With the emulator, the airbag will always be ready whether someone is in the seat or not.

Who is this seller, a "Mom-and Pop" used car lot or dealership? If you really want the car, haggle further. Take the information about the codes and the fact that it will not pass inspection "as it sits" and use that to negotiate. Hell, the SRS alone is enough for them to want to be reasonable. Most they can say is NO and you walk away.

Keep in mind it is still a 13/14-year-old car...

Lots of luck and, please, let us know how you made out.

 

I would advise you to walk away, but not for the reasons you might think. Your comments are very detailed, so is your pricing, right down to a $50 increment. Reading this, it's almost like if you exhaustively identify all the components of this transaction right down to the finest detail, they you'll have a binary checklist that you can tick off one by one until you get the car you want. However, this is an old convertible with lots of miles. It's a lived-in car, and not binary at all. It will never ever live up to your ideals.

My advice, either come up with more money, or get comfortable with compromise. And I don't think you like compromise.

G/L, and welcome to the forum.

 

Thanks man! Yeah I want to make sure I make a good decision. I walked away from this. I'm sitting back to see if any more manual g37s verts pop up. Id be willing to pay more for one that can pass inspection and has less miles. Or get paddle shifters. Also you know I have a fat spread sheet with all the cars, specs, price, ect.

 

I've driven a 6MT Vert. It's a fun car, and feels faster than it actually is (because it's heavy). Plus the whole retractable hard-top thing is so Autobot, it's pretty cool.

Worth the wait and the added budget. Again, GL.


No doubt.