Tell Me About Your G37 Purchase
11-06-2015, 12:05 PM
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Tell Me About Your G37 Purchase
Hey everyone, still looking at buying a G37. I've been seeing a lot of dealerships in my area that have the listing price for these vehicles go for more than what the KBB value is. I'm wondering what everyone's experience was at the car dealerships where they got their cars, how much did you haggle down from the asking price? How did you do it?
Stories are great, thanks!
Stories are great, thanks!
11-06-2015, 03:31 PM
#3
First off, I'm a pretty new G owner, but it has been the best auto purchase I have made in my opinion, the cars are pure awesome, so congrats on looking to buy one.
I'll give you some advice from years of purchasing cars. If the dealer has it listed higher than NADA retail value then it's pretty much useless to even consider it. Forget about kbb, banks don't use kbb to value vehicles, kbb is useless, go to nadaguides.com and go by the retail value if it's a dealer, or the clean trade value if it's an individual selling it, this is how banks value autos and decide how much to loan on any vehicle.
I spent 2 months searching before I found the right deal, it takes time, and you also have to be willing to make a long car ride or buy a one way plane ticket to go buy a car, search wishing 500 miles of where you live, it greatly increases your chances of finding a good deal.
The retail value is definitely higher so you can borrow a decent amount more on a loan if your buying from a dealer vs an individual. There are ups and downs to either way. Dealers are tricky, no doubt a whole lot of them want to extract as much money as possible from you, so you have to be careful. In my experience all prices listed online are online only prices, meaning if you walk onto th lot they would ask more for the same car, which means you need to deal with Internet sales when looking so you get the online listed price. Also typically smaller dealerships are usually trying to list cars at a lower amount than they intend to sell th car for, meaning their goal is to do the financing at the dealer instead of you getting your own financing through your own bank or credit union because they make more money if you finance through them, they are also listing cars at a lower price because they will only actually sell it at that price if you purchase an additional 2-3,000$ extended warranty, they're trying to rip people off.
Usually larger dealerships that sell new cars are more willing to all a car without you financing through them or purchasing an extended warranty. Best bet is to send an email about any car your interested in and ask for a "cash" price. This tells the dealer you don't intend to finance through them or buy any extras, and then you can get an actual price they will sell a car for without any gimmicks or Extras attached.
Once you find something you want and its worth what they're asking, which ,Evans being at or below nada value, then you can try to offer a bit less and see if they bite with a counter offer to negotiate a final price. Typically though if your able to get a "cash" price on a car, that's about as low as the dealer is willing to let it go for though and there may not be any room for negotiation.
At that point go to your bank or credit union and get the financing through them, you put them in touch with the dealer and they take care of the loan for you, this is always in your favor because you know your not paying a higher interest rate that the dealer wants you to pay so they make extra money on the sale. If a dealer offers you financing at say 7% interest, chances are very good that if you have decent credit you could get the same loan for 2-3% lower interest through your bank which save you a lot of money every month and in the long run.
Best advice is to treat the deal like you have cash to buy it and get a price based on that type of purchase, it will yield the actual sale price a dealer would let the car go for, no haggling really needed.
Something to beware of is if any dealer is unwilling to give you a "cash" price and put it in writing on a purchase agreement then look elsewhere to purchase, you will find many dealers that won't even give you a cash price and will just " want you to come in" stay away from these ones, and there will be a lot of them, if they operate that way then their sole intention is to trick you or break you down into paying more or buying things you don't need, which is pretty standard procedure for dealers, but you can find some that don't operate this way and will be straight up.
Good luck! Hope this helps.
I'll give you some advice from years of purchasing cars. If the dealer has it listed higher than NADA retail value then it's pretty much useless to even consider it. Forget about kbb, banks don't use kbb to value vehicles, kbb is useless, go to nadaguides.com and go by the retail value if it's a dealer, or the clean trade value if it's an individual selling it, this is how banks value autos and decide how much to loan on any vehicle.
I spent 2 months searching before I found the right deal, it takes time, and you also have to be willing to make a long car ride or buy a one way plane ticket to go buy a car, search wishing 500 miles of where you live, it greatly increases your chances of finding a good deal.
The retail value is definitely higher so you can borrow a decent amount more on a loan if your buying from a dealer vs an individual. There are ups and downs to either way. Dealers are tricky, no doubt a whole lot of them want to extract as much money as possible from you, so you have to be careful. In my experience all prices listed online are online only prices, meaning if you walk onto th lot they would ask more for the same car, which means you need to deal with Internet sales when looking so you get the online listed price. Also typically smaller dealerships are usually trying to list cars at a lower amount than they intend to sell th car for, meaning their goal is to do the financing at the dealer instead of you getting your own financing through your own bank or credit union because they make more money if you finance through them, they are also listing cars at a lower price because they will only actually sell it at that price if you purchase an additional 2-3,000$ extended warranty, they're trying to rip people off.
Usually larger dealerships that sell new cars are more willing to all a car without you financing through them or purchasing an extended warranty. Best bet is to send an email about any car your interested in and ask for a "cash" price. This tells the dealer you don't intend to finance through them or buy any extras, and then you can get an actual price they will sell a car for without any gimmicks or Extras attached.
Once you find something you want and its worth what they're asking, which ,Evans being at or below nada value, then you can try to offer a bit less and see if they bite with a counter offer to negotiate a final price. Typically though if your able to get a "cash" price on a car, that's about as low as the dealer is willing to let it go for though and there may not be any room for negotiation.
At that point go to your bank or credit union and get the financing through them, you put them in touch with the dealer and they take care of the loan for you, this is always in your favor because you know your not paying a higher interest rate that the dealer wants you to pay so they make extra money on the sale. If a dealer offers you financing at say 7% interest, chances are very good that if you have decent credit you could get the same loan for 2-3% lower interest through your bank which save you a lot of money every month and in the long run.
Best advice is to treat the deal like you have cash to buy it and get a price based on that type of purchase, it will yield the actual sale price a dealer would let the car go for, no haggling really needed.
Something to beware of is if any dealer is unwilling to give you a "cash" price and put it in writing on a purchase agreement then look elsewhere to purchase, you will find many dealers that won't even give you a cash price and will just " want you to come in" stay away from these ones, and there will be a lot of them, if they operate that way then their sole intention is to trick you or break you down into paying more or buying things you don't need, which is pretty standard procedure for dealers, but you can find some that don't operate this way and will be straight up.
Good luck! Hope this helps.
Last edited by Brown324; 11-06-2015 at 04:02 PM. Reason: Add more info
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blnewt (11-06-2015)
11-07-2015, 12:12 AM
#4
After landing my G37S 6MT from a private seller, I decided to help out my friend who wanted to buy a black on black G37xS (I think he got bit by the new car bug?). I did some research for him and found one that was had 35k miles listed at $27.5k online. So we checked out the car and I noted all the imperfections during negotiation - the tires had absolutely no tread left so that knocked $1k off the price, bumper wasn't installed correctly and had a random puncture in it, $500 off, and the trunk didn't close/line up properly (I've noticed that a number of G37 owners had trouble with this based on past forum posts).
So we were able to lower the final price from 29k after taxes/title/*insert bs fees* to 27k and they would fix the trunk alignment. At the end of the day, we felt like it'd be a strategic move to step back and see if this car sells. Apparently it hasn't since last week and they lowered the advertised online price down $1k. So he's going to try to come back at them for what they offered minus $1k (final price of 26k after taxes/title/fees).
If he can pull this off, it wouldn't be too bad of a deal. I've seen better but these cars fly off the lot in NJ because people can't drive manuals around here! Bottom line - when buying a used car, list all imperfections, however big or small, and try to use that to bring it down to bare bone market value. It also helps to visit more than 1 stealership to start a bidding war for your business. Lastly, if you can wait for winter months to hit, prices of the sports model will be more flexible because literally nobody is in the market for cars with rwd.
Good luck on your purchase! Let us know how your experience goes.
So we were able to lower the final price from 29k after taxes/title/*insert bs fees* to 27k and they would fix the trunk alignment. At the end of the day, we felt like it'd be a strategic move to step back and see if this car sells. Apparently it hasn't since last week and they lowered the advertised online price down $1k. So he's going to try to come back at them for what they offered minus $1k (final price of 26k after taxes/title/fees).
If he can pull this off, it wouldn't be too bad of a deal. I've seen better but these cars fly off the lot in NJ because people can't drive manuals around here! Bottom line - when buying a used car, list all imperfections, however big or small, and try to use that to bring it down to bare bone market value. It also helps to visit more than 1 stealership to start a bidding war for your business. Lastly, if you can wait for winter months to hit, prices of the sports model will be more flexible because literally nobody is in the market for cars with rwd.
Good luck on your purchase! Let us know how your experience goes.
11-07-2015, 09:34 AM
#5
If you want a reference to how well my process can work, like I said it took me several months to find the right car for the right deal, but I bought my black on black 2012 g37x sedan with 42,000 miles on it for $18,000 plus tax/tag/title bringing the total to $19,620 out the door, the car has a clean history report, still under factory warranty, a few tiny scratches here and there but nothing bothersome, and had brand new brakes and tires and everything is in tip top shape on it.
11-07-2015, 02:02 PM
#6
My advice is to shop, shop, shop. Take out a 30 day auto check membership (most online sellers will provide a carfax free of charge - carfax and autocheck do not always agree). There are a **** ton of these great cars out there with low miles and just a few years old. Be willing to travel to buy the right car, and ignore anything that's over priced and/or has a questionable car history report. I found a super clean 2012 g37x with my preferred options and fave color around 4 hrs. from me and was able to make a fair deal. I accomplished all this in around 10 days time.
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