READ BEFORE BUYING: Tips for buying your new G37
#31
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ft Walton Beach, FL
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MUST READ for buyers/leasees!
I'm getting ready to buy my G37 and done some research. I recommend EVERYONE looking to buy or lease to check out:
www.fightingchance.com
Bottom line: it's $40 spent that can save you thousands!
OK, so they don't do any advertising, only word of mouth. I happened across it on an internet search. This guy explains how if you go into a dealership give them a price, you're already LOSING money!
He explains the "below-the-radar" incentives that dealers get that allow them to sell car UNDER invoice.
It's aout 50 pages or so about the current auto market, the market of the automaker you choose, and a complete breakdown of all costs for the model you choose. He tells you how to get dealers to compete with each other to give you the best deal, all in a couple days with minimal work by you. All complete with examples and backed up with actual customer data.
All the info saved me more than $2000 in buying my G!
www.fightingchance.com
Bottom line: it's $40 spent that can save you thousands!
OK, so they don't do any advertising, only word of mouth. I happened across it on an internet search. This guy explains how if you go into a dealership give them a price, you're already LOSING money!
He explains the "below-the-radar" incentives that dealers get that allow them to sell car UNDER invoice.
It's aout 50 pages or so about the current auto market, the market of the automaker you choose, and a complete breakdown of all costs for the model you choose. He tells you how to get dealers to compete with each other to give you the best deal, all in a couple days with minimal work by you. All complete with examples and backed up with actual customer data.
All the info saved me more than $2000 in buying my G!
Last edited by CuddysG37; 04-07-2010 at 06:23 AM. Reason: Update on final price
#32
For military
If you are in the military or have a USAA account they can also make a great deal. All of the negotiating is done by USAA and you just have to find a dealer.
I am looking at a 2010 G37S with Nav which most dealers in my area are selling for around $42000. Through the USAA car buying service I got a quote for $35449, which is around $2000 under invoice and all I had to do was enter the data on USAAs site.
Extremely easy for those without the patience to wheel and deal with a salesman and it is actually a good deal.
I am looking at a 2010 G37S with Nav which most dealers in my area are selling for around $42000. Through the USAA car buying service I got a quote for $35449, which is around $2000 under invoice and all I had to do was enter the data on USAAs site.
Extremely easy for those without the patience to wheel and deal with a salesman and it is actually a good deal.
#35
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
If you are in the military or have a USAA account they can also make a great deal. All of the negotiating is done by USAA and you just have to find a dealer.
I am looking at a 2010 G37S with Nav which most dealers in my area are selling for around $42000. Through the USAA car buying service I got a quote for $35449, which is around $2000 under invoice and all I had to do was enter the data on USAAs site.
Extremely easy for those without the patience to wheel and deal with a salesman and it is actually a good deal.
I am looking at a 2010 G37S with Nav which most dealers in my area are selling for around $42000. Through the USAA car buying service I got a quote for $35449, which is around $2000 under invoice and all I had to do was enter the data on USAAs site.
Extremely easy for those without the patience to wheel and deal with a salesman and it is actually a good deal.
#36
___________________
va land rover
virginia land rover
#37
I honestly was set to settle for a G25 because I just really can't afford to pay 40K for a car (I'm terrible at talking sales people down), but USAA got me into the G37 I really wanted for what I was willing to pay for a lesser car.
Oh yeah, Infinit gave me a better rate than USAA, so I used their financing. It's a good time of year to buy a car, I think.
I honestly couldn't be happier.
#39
Registered User
Here's a completely alternative approach:
I don't like manipulating and/or lying, and I think it's ineffective. If your heart is set on a G37 and you start pretending to be interested in Beemer, either the salesperson believes you or sees through you. If the first, it orients him/her toward offering you information and maybe options or features that are irrelevant to you. If he/she sees through you, which is 99.99% likely, then you have established yourself as an adversary.
Many of the techniques recommended above and elsewhere establish you as an adversary. I've been in sales (not cars though), and as soon as the customer establishes that the sales game will be played as adversaries, the salesperson is thinking how they can give with one hand but take back in all the areas you are not knowledgeable in (lease rates, other options, add-ons, etc.). Also, if you establish you absolutely have a fixed dollar point in mind, if I'm a salesperson, I'm not going to suggest any options you don't ask for because basically I (the salesperson) will be the one paying for them, not you because you have stated you won't pay.
The other problem with playing the adversary game is you can't win. You buy a car how often? So you, by yourself, with your lifetime experience buying a car 3 to 10 times maybe, are going up against a professional team of sellers who sell cars to people of every personality type and possessing every type of advice available, including your personality type and the "system" you are trying to use, and they do it 10 times EVERY DAY (or more).
You can be honest and direct without getting ripped off. If you start to feel that a seller is taking advantage of your honest approach by telling you stuff you have been warned online (like here at MyG37) is bull, walk away. Fast. Or you can switch into adversary mode at that point, contacting multiple dealers to get competing bids, etc.
Because I don't play adversary, usually the salesperson and the rest of the company winds up watching out for my interests because I'm not being a wiseass. I recently asked about one option and was told, "no one gets that - you don't need it", and on another option, "personally I don't like how that looks". So they weren't selling me the kitchen sink.
Pricewise, I am a detail-oriented hardcore information junkie and I did my own spreadsheets using available information on MSRP, invoice, parts prices and actual costs, official Infiniti labor-hours guides for tech departments, etc. So I knew what the margins were and what was negotiable. In the end I used TrueCar, sent the salesperson the link, and got the deal at that price. Consumers, Edmunds, and TrueCar all show a good price number, average price actually paid in your area, and the best price (lowest) paid in your area.
Upfront I told the salesperson that I didn't care if I paid 300 too much but that I didn't want to run into someone who paid 3000 less than I did.
In the end I paid a little less than the average price in the area, had the sales & financing team working for me not against me, and got a lot of good technical information and really good advice. When we were negotiating the price, I even told them I wished I could play BMW off against Infiniti but that the Infiniti blew away the equivalent Beemer, the Audi, the Volvo, and the Mercedes.
Of course both sides have to want a win-win, but in my case I asked for that and got that. When it came time to sign the paperwork, the price was the exact price we had agreed on by email and phone - no dealer Magic Fairy Dust Treatment for $300 or Meteor-Strike Protection Insurance for $600 suddenly appearing on the bill. In return, when I got the car, equipment, and deal I wanted, I went in immediately and bought the car, no putting the salesperson through hell. Treat me right, you've got the deal.
Bottom-line: use an approach that feels comfortable for you, and if the other side decides to use that to take advantage, go elsewhere.
I don't like manipulating and/or lying, and I think it's ineffective. If your heart is set on a G37 and you start pretending to be interested in Beemer, either the salesperson believes you or sees through you. If the first, it orients him/her toward offering you information and maybe options or features that are irrelevant to you. If he/she sees through you, which is 99.99% likely, then you have established yourself as an adversary.
Many of the techniques recommended above and elsewhere establish you as an adversary. I've been in sales (not cars though), and as soon as the customer establishes that the sales game will be played as adversaries, the salesperson is thinking how they can give with one hand but take back in all the areas you are not knowledgeable in (lease rates, other options, add-ons, etc.). Also, if you establish you absolutely have a fixed dollar point in mind, if I'm a salesperson, I'm not going to suggest any options you don't ask for because basically I (the salesperson) will be the one paying for them, not you because you have stated you won't pay.
The other problem with playing the adversary game is you can't win. You buy a car how often? So you, by yourself, with your lifetime experience buying a car 3 to 10 times maybe, are going up against a professional team of sellers who sell cars to people of every personality type and possessing every type of advice available, including your personality type and the "system" you are trying to use, and they do it 10 times EVERY DAY (or more).
You can be honest and direct without getting ripped off. If you start to feel that a seller is taking advantage of your honest approach by telling you stuff you have been warned online (like here at MyG37) is bull, walk away. Fast. Or you can switch into adversary mode at that point, contacting multiple dealers to get competing bids, etc.
Because I don't play adversary, usually the salesperson and the rest of the company winds up watching out for my interests because I'm not being a wiseass. I recently asked about one option and was told, "no one gets that - you don't need it", and on another option, "personally I don't like how that looks". So they weren't selling me the kitchen sink.
Pricewise, I am a detail-oriented hardcore information junkie and I did my own spreadsheets using available information on MSRP, invoice, parts prices and actual costs, official Infiniti labor-hours guides for tech departments, etc. So I knew what the margins were and what was negotiable. In the end I used TrueCar, sent the salesperson the link, and got the deal at that price. Consumers, Edmunds, and TrueCar all show a good price number, average price actually paid in your area, and the best price (lowest) paid in your area.
Upfront I told the salesperson that I didn't care if I paid 300 too much but that I didn't want to run into someone who paid 3000 less than I did.
In the end I paid a little less than the average price in the area, had the sales & financing team working for me not against me, and got a lot of good technical information and really good advice. When we were negotiating the price, I even told them I wished I could play BMW off against Infiniti but that the Infiniti blew away the equivalent Beemer, the Audi, the Volvo, and the Mercedes.
Of course both sides have to want a win-win, but in my case I asked for that and got that. When it came time to sign the paperwork, the price was the exact price we had agreed on by email and phone - no dealer Magic Fairy Dust Treatment for $300 or Meteor-Strike Protection Insurance for $600 suddenly appearing on the bill. In return, when I got the car, equipment, and deal I wanted, I went in immediately and bought the car, no putting the salesperson through hell. Treat me right, you've got the deal.
Bottom-line: use an approach that feels comfortable for you, and if the other side decides to use that to take advantage, go elsewhere.
Last edited by cyberBeach; 09-02-2011 at 03:31 PM. Reason: typo
#40
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
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I just completed a g37xs purchase in the Twin Cities, Minn. Edmunds seemed pretty accurate as it showed most sales to be at about invoice and I got [I]slightly better - maybe even too accurate (does anyone know if this is a dealer-sponsored website?). My advice re your trade-in is to bait and switch if possible (eg negotiate a trade in for your car against any infiniti), then you can use that trade-in offer to negotiate the price of the car you want without falling prey to the old "let's just talk price difference" dealer trick. Then use your wife, real or fictitious, to get out of the dealership to think about(eg my wife is sick and needs to look at it and have some hard numbers). Then come back with a lower price. However, you can negotiate your trade in further based on what Audi and BMW would give you. Lastly, remember that Infiniti is trying to get a better foothold in the sport sedan world, so they're going to negotiate down.
Also, try comparable cars....the G37xs is comparable to the BMW 335 (for a 50k car, it has too many problems) and the Audi S4 (the A4 is too underpowered tho gets 29mpg). Both the 335 and S4 are way more than the Infiniti, and, to me, for different reasons a worse choise than Infiniti (e.g. the 335 has fuel pump problems and requires premium due to its tubos). However, they're good cars well worth looking at.
Remember: if you're paying near 40 for a new car, get what you want!
Also, try comparable cars....the G37xs is comparable to the BMW 335 (for a 50k car, it has too many problems) and the Audi S4 (the A4 is too underpowered tho gets 29mpg). Both the 335 and S4 are way more than the Infiniti, and, to me, for different reasons a worse choise than Infiniti (e.g. the 335 has fuel pump problems and requires premium due to its tubos). However, they're good cars well worth looking at.
Remember: if you're paying near 40 for a new car, get what you want!
#42
Spreading the word.
I am glad that this kind of information is being distributed. Edmunds is a great resource. From my experience, arming yourself with this kind of info will also allow you to quickly determine if a dealer still plays by old school rules ("I'll take this to my manages" and let you sit for 15 minutes...) or is upfront and realizes that you don't need to be in their office all day and have access to pricing and inventory information.
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