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Scroll to Posts #5 & #6 for current status. If you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything, it's that simple...I built this car for myself and no one else. We're all adults here, and I don't care for anyone's (negative) opinions unless I'm directly asking for opinions. I understand there are lighter more track-ready cars out there....but that is literally the last thing I could care about. We all come different backgrounds, and some of us just enjoy working on what we have worked our a$$e$ off to afford and seeing the potential come to fruition.
We're car enthusiasts, not car detractors!
I'll call this a "weekend-warrior" build for now.
I bought my 2013 black obsidian G37 Sport 6 speed manual coupe with 50k miles on it in 2017? (bone stock) and it’s been a journey with this car since then. Currently have 70k miles on the odometer, and it is far from stock now. My initial plans with this car were to change the suspension, wheels, exhaust, and slap on a supercharger, but we all know how things tend to go when modifying cars. I fell in love with the platform and sheer fun it offers after owning a 2007 G35 sport 6mt coupe a decade ago. No, of course it's not the fastest car with a naturally aspirated V6, but the engineers of the G/Z platform got what the driving experience is all about, in my opinion. They left us with a great set of bones to build onto and off-of.
Bone stock other than tint.
As I write this out I'm struggling to remember when I did some of this, so there might be some gaps or things out of order. The first thing I did to my car was install a Z1 front-mount intake, which was great until one of their filters ripped at the base. Said no thank you not going to happen again, so I swapped to an R2C black hex SRI and that was fun because of the increased volume with the stock exhaust- but holy heat-soak. I ended up leaving those on for a while.
Z1 intake installed. Easiest front mount intakes to install.
R2C SRI.
After I installed the Z1-->R2C intake, I wanted to go ahead and fix the horrible stance the G37 coupe has from the factory and wanted to get rid of some of the understeer it also has from the factory. I was on a budget at the time (should have just saved up a few $$$ more) so I installed the Tein Street Basis Z coilover kit. Install wasn't awful past removing and re-installing the OEM front top-hats. Note for others- no spring compressor is needed for the OEM top hats to come off the front shocks- they barely jumped an inch, maybe not even a half-inch. I used a spring compressor the first time and noticed I barely had to compress it. It immediately helped with turn-in, understeer, and keeping the car's center of gravity lower in corners, but because they aren't adjustable past height, the dampening was just not right, especially with the coilovers set to a lower height to completely close the wheel gap. The only way to describe it is bouncy, which caused me to bottom out in the rear, especially bad right after installing my 19x10.5 rear wheels, just before swapping to the Flex Z. I added H&R 20mm front and rear spacers to my OEM wheels before getting my Work wheels which also helped visually, but when I finally removed the spacers, it broke one of my wheel studs so I had to replace that. I had some new Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires (OEM sizes) installed on my OEM wheels at the same time also, won’t be buying those tires again. They were good, but nothing special in my opinion. I also threw on the updated SPC rear camber arms and eccentric lockout kit – the front was able to stay close enough to spec with the OEM FUCA’s, not being slammed but closing the wheel gap.
Installing the Tein Street Basis Z coilovers. After installing the Street Basis Z. A little too low so I ended up raising it a hair front and rear. This is before the 20mm spacers, IIRC.
The next thing on my to-do list was the OEM brakes since I was due for new rotors and pads anyways. I installed some Z1 1 piece slotted rotors, Z1 standard SS brake lines, Hawk Performance Ceramic pads for the street, and used Motul RBF600 fluid. They’ve help up great. The rotors are slotted only, not drilled since I prefer (like most others) to not have my brake discs crack. The Z1 braided lines and Motul RBF600 made the single biggest change in braking feel. The Hawk Performance Ceramic pads must be broken in correctly, but oh boy are they good pads when broken in properly. I 100% think these pads have saved me from a couple situations (thanks to other drivers) where OEM pads would not have sufficed, and plan to use them on all of my street cars going forward. I chose to orient the slots this way- the Z1 1 pc. rotors have non-directional internal cooling vanes so you can choose which direction you want them to face.
Z1 1pc slotted rear rotors after a few thousand miles.
Z1 1pc slotted front rotors (taken during coilover swap). You can also see the new stud I had to replace from taking off the wheel spacers.
Somewhere around this time I ordered the OEM sport rear wing/spoiler from an Infiniti dealership and installed it myself. Was actually a very easy with the right tools (conical drill bit). I took my time to get it perfect and couldn’t be happier, I don’t think a dealership would have done a better job.
OEM trunk spoiler going on.
Next was the exhaust. As much as I loved the factory exhaust note of the VQ37, it just wasn’t loud enough, and didn’t sound as clean, crisp, and aggressive as the previous G35 sport coupe exhaust I had. So it had to go. I spent days researching and watching videos, to finally settle on the HKS Hi-Power 60mm cat-back exhaust. It took 8 months to come from Japan, but the wait was worth it. Amazing quality, and I did not have a faulty H-pipe like some have reported (makes me wonder if some were ordering/receiving fakes and thinking they’d gotten a true HKS). I like how little rasp it has throughout the rev range, and how clean it still manages to sound.
HKS Hi-Power + OEM spoiler installed.
At some point around this time, my car suffered from the notorious CSC failure and had to be towed to a shop. Ordered the ZSpeed CMAK kit to be installed and get rid of the CSC permanently, definitely never wanted to deal with that again. Since my car had 65k miles on it at the time with the original clutch and flywheel (to my knowledge), I started looking at pricing for replacing the clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate also since the transmission was already dropped. The OEM parts were dumb pricey, and at the time my plan was to install a supercharger soon…so I gave Joe at ZSpeed another call. He helped me figure out what package to get for my plans, and we settled on the Southbend Stage 3 daily clutch (optional quiet disk) with a billet flywheel. I had everything installed by the shop owner and like how it all turned out. Now that my plans have changed and I’m holding off on the supercharger a little longer, I do wish I would have gotten a Stage 2 daily clutch instead to make it a little more drivable. My knee feels the stage 3 after a while, but it’s nothing to go and complain about. Not for your average driver though for sure. For the clutch fluid I had the shop use Motul RBF600. I only use Motul fluids for the G37, except for my Redline engine oil.
After replacing my clutch and flywheel, it was finally time for a wheel order. Settled on the newly released (back then) Work Emotion ZR10 in the glim black diamond cut rim finish. Due to availability/wait times, I went ahead and grabbed them in 19x9.5 +23 front and 19x10.5 +23 rear. Authentic Work wheel lugs and center caps had to go with them, of course. Paired the wheels with some General GMAX RS tires in 245/40/19 up front and 275/35/19 rear I got a deal on, which (IMO) were an improvement in grip over the Indy 500 and smoother for the street- but because of the softer round sidewall that made them smoother on the street, they weren’t a favorite tire either. Again good, but nothing special. The Tein Street Basis Z rubbed on big dips with this setup - before I installed the wheels I trimmed the rear bumper bracket and smoothed it down and it would still rub on the fender occasionally. My rear camber was set to almost -3 at this time to fit the 10.5 +23 rear wheels, which I wasn’t a fan of.
Emotion ZR10 unboxing. 19x10.5 +23 rear on 275/35/19 General GMax RS.
So that led me to place an order for a new set of rear wheels, same exact spec, just in the +30 offset. I don’t want to run spacers ever again, especially on the track (unless we’re talking ARP extended studs) and wanted a perfectly flush fitment- this did the trick. Once the 10.5 +30 rears came in which took half a year since they were custom order from Japan, I also had my tires swapped again since I didn’t love the GMAX RS. This time around I tried the newly released Yokohama Advan Apex v601, and these are now my new go-to tires for the street. Perfect amount of sidewall and excellent grip. Phenomenal tire in my opinion, easy to read at the limit, very responsive leaving no unnerving feelings at all. This time for the tire sizes I didn’t want as much of a stretch on the rear, and since tread width varies by manufacturer, I went with 245/40/19 in the front and 285/35/19 in the rear. I like this setup a lot more since the rear has more rubber on the ground, less of a stretch, and the front and rear sidewalls look more even now. The OD’s are also much closer to each other- the rears are only fractionally taller than the fronts (not visibly noticeable) so they will wear slightly more evenly since the G37 is RWD. Better in the long run than running a shorter 275/35 rear with RWD. Again, tread width and OD varies by tire, size, and manufacturer so just use that as a reference, not a guide for all tires.
Around this time I noticed a leak in my upper radiator hose, which was another fun discovery. I figured I’d go ahead and do a full flush and fill with the same blue OEM pre-mixed coolant, and why not have the hoses swapped with silicone hoses while I was having a shop do this work. I ordered the blue Z1 silicone master hose set and had a local shop (when I lived in NC) install the silicone hoses and Z1 temp sensor bleeder port. They did a crap job and used standard worm clamps instead of the spring clamps I gave them to use, in addition to not installing one of the rear heater hoses and just tossing it hoping I wouldn’t find out that they didn’t install it. Needless to say, that was the last time I went to that shop. Everything still held up fine for a couple months…then the spotting started. Small white dots started forming on ALL of my radiator and heater hoses. It wasn’t on the exterior of the hoses and can’t be cleaned off. I reached out to Z1 and they ended up ghosting me about the issue, so I ordered a set of black silicone hoses from Concept Z Performance and this time had a professional tuning shop (National Speed) install the radiator and heater hoses using OEM spring clamps. I was super happy with the quality of work they did. But low and behold…less than 2 months later, again, my new black silicone hoses were forming the white dots. I reached out to Concept Z Performance and sent them pictures of what was going on, and had a completely different experience with their amazing customer support. They reached out to the manufacturer of their hoses and confirmed the spotting was due to a defect in the design/build of the hoses, and immediately sent me a new set they confirmed were not affected. The new set is sitting in my garage, and will be getting installed with the rest of the pile that makes up my current project. I also had this shop use P2M radiator hose clamps, and unless they completely forgot to tighten the upper hose clamps, the bolt backed out, caused the clamp to come loose and ended up spraying coolant around (including on my new serp belt, joys!). I’ll be using the OEM radiator spring clamps this 3rd time around….
Installing the Z1 power steering & front PCV hoses. Z1 blue hoses that eventually spotted through.
Spotting/seeping through…fun stuff round 1.
Concept Z Performance hoses also spotting…fun stuff round 2. CZP customer support was top notch. Confirmed it was a defect and set me a new set asap.
If you notice from the pics above, I also swapped intakes again during this time. I finally got tired of heat soak living in a hotter climate so I installed the Takeda front mount intake. I chose this intake over the Stillen Gen 3 due to the design of the stillen elbow and use of a non-oiled filter. I did not like how the stillen elbow was metal and had the chance to rub on the AC lines. So I grabbed my Dremel and cleared out a little more space (trimmed some for the Z1 intakes) in the rad support for the silicone elbows to not constrict at all. I didn’t install the water shield either at first, but added that on to be safe when I put on my IPL bumper. If I do end up staying N/A I will either eventually swap to the AAM intakes or maybe try the SOHO intakes again.
At this point I had been driving with the Stage 3 clutch on the factory pedal assembly for couple thousand miles, and it had been wearing on me fast. So I ordered the RJM Rev 3.3 clutch pedal assembly. Night and day difference in clutch modulation, feeling, and overall smoothness rowing between gears. I made one critical mistake- I didn’t order and install the Tilton HD CMC at the same time, so I’m now waiting for the next batch to become available from RJM and will install that asap. The install for the pedal assembly was very straightforward thanks to the wonderfully detailed instructions they came with, and have a lot of room for adjustment. I have left it on the recommended settings from the install and been happy. I do need to adjust my pedal slightly though, the pedal needs to come up maybe 1/8” to fully hit the clutch position switch (blanking on the technical term) but that’s just a nuisance and nothing wrong with the setup since it still hits the switch, just not 100%.
The next mod was a little random and not planned for a while later, but I wasn’t complaining. A good friend of mine with a heavily modified Mazda RX7 FD had some authentic Bride x Cusco Zeta 3 seats he wanted to replace with a reclining version from Bride, so I happily took them off his hands for a very fair price. All I needed was another overnight parts from Japan order for my Bride seat rails and hardware, which of course was custom and took a few months to arrive. Once they came in, swapping the seats was very easy and straightforward. I never want to carry those OEM seats again though…they weigh a solid 80-90lbs a piece…getting them out was 100% the hardest part. They are gathering dust in storage now if anyone is interested. Very happy with the weight savings from swapping the seats out, I think I netted around 150lbs total savings, including seat rails. I might also swap to a reclining version eventually but being 6’4” these seats are amazing, and if I run a roll bar I wouldn’t have a need for a recling version on the street. Only if I run a harness bar would I get a reclining version, for safety, but not the other way around. I no longer look into the headliner and actually see out of the front windshield now- I do recommend aftermarket seats for my fellow tall drivers who have visibility issues, it also saves your neck from so much discomfort.
Bride X Cusco Zeta III seats and type FO seat rails finally installed.
At some point near here I ordered and installed some OEM IPL sideskirts which looked great with the OEM 11’-13’ sport front bumper.
OEM IPL side skirts with the 11’-13’ sport front bumper fascia. This was with the new 19x10.5 +30 rear wheels (285/35/19).
After the seats were installed, I found a new product for the G37 I wanted to try. It was the newly released Coolerworx short throw shifter, which I found through SOHO motorsports (I heard about them when I lived back in NC, not too far from where they are). I had been hunting for a true short throw shifter for a while and it seemed like no one offered a quality product. I ordered the shifter in graphite, hoping to get a dark gray shifter, but luck wasn’t with me for that order. When it arrived, it had a very noticeable blue hue to the graphite shifter, so in the light it actually looks more blue than gray. I contacted SOHO and they were extremely helpful and reached out to Coolerworx. It turns out that was the last one supposedly ever made in that finish, for that exact reason- the anodizing wasn’t coming out the way they wanted. I wish they would have at least warned me, but nothing I can’t live without. I wasn’t about to return it and wait 4 more months over a slight color difference, and knowing it was one of a kind I kind of wanted to keep it. So instead I ordered their black shift **** and slapped it on. Looks more than good enough now and blends/hides the blue on the shifter assembly. It looks like SOHO no longer offers Coolerworx but it can still be found on the Colerworx website, only in black now…maybe I’ll swap out to the black shifter one day…but this shifter is the bees knees. It does have a slight rattle that happens in 3rd gear at a certain rev range, but some have fixed it and it’s so minor to me. It is chassis mounted, so it is rock solid and feels like a gated shifter. The throws are noticeably shorter and snappier, and because of the notchy feeling, it’s not for new stick shift drivers. IMO, you need to know how to drive a manual very comfortably if you want to consider this mod. I can see how easy it would be for some to mis-shift when downshifting with this kit. Oh I also had the Z1 urethane transmission mount installed by National Speed at the same time, and love the combo. Z1 urethane diff mounts and subframe collars are piled up in my garage waiting to be installed now to help stiffen the chassis more.
It comes in 2 pieces - the shifter and the separate mounting plate. You can see how blue the finish ended up looking. Installed. Leather boot was able to be re-used. You can really see the blue-slate in the "Titan" finish so I swapped to a black shift ****.
I spend a lot of time on the370z forum since there are a lot of great technical resources and knowledgeable track rats on that forum-so I decided to adapt a new dual baffled oil catch can system for our cars from the members there. I have a whole thread dedicated to that project so I’ll link it here: Saikou Michi Dual Baffled oil catch cans
Saikou Michi dual baffled oil catch cans finally installed. Amazing customer service and an amazing product. I may eventually redo them and position them on both sides of the coolant overflow tank.
Around this time I finally pulled the trigger on a remote tune.
My car was remote tuned (EcuTek of course) by Seb at Specialty Z and I love how it turned out. I went with an OTS tune until my resonated HFCs get installed, at which time he and I will do some data logging and he’ll whip up a custom map for me. Night and day difference in drivability and much more fun. The safeguards in EcuTek are beyond nice.
I didn’t like how the sport front bumper was slightly higher up than the IPL side skirts and wanted something a little more aggressive, so I installed an Aero Blitz alumalite front splitter with support rods. The install was easy, just mark the existing bumper clip holes and drill where needed. It looked good, but I was just holding myself over until I finally pulled the trigger on an OEM IPL front bumper. With OEM accessory parts availability dwindling, I figured it’d be better to go ahead and get it before its too late. I have no plans to install the IPL rear bumper, personally just not a fan of it. A functional rear diffuser though…now we’re talking. Maybe some custom side vortex generators until then. I replaced every OEM clip and bracket when I installed the IPL front bumper. Completely worth it despite the annoying price of some of the OEM parts. I also chose not to run fog lights since I never used them anyways. I considered painting the chrome accents on the bumper but am glad I decided not to. I like how clean it looks now and the chrome accents on the bumper fog surrounds go perfectly with the chrome trim on the midnight grille.
Oh, I also installed a Cusco front tow hook at the same time. I liked how the combination with the splitter looked. With the IPL bumper on though, it wasn’t my favorite combo, so the Cusco hook is now for sale and was replaced with the new Z1 tow strap. The Z1 strap is black and looks much better with the IPL bumper. They stick out about the same amount due to the folding design of the Cusco hook.
Moving to FL.
At 70k miles currently on my odometer, I'm planning to tackle and "restore" everything on the car and rebuild my engine at 90k or 100k before I consider a supercharger. I might even bore and stroke the motor with a new intake manifold and forged internals, we shall see.... that 4.2l VQ track build (Hybrid build now) I've seen just sounds too heavenly. I already have the topgunz anti-slip pulley and Omni 4 bar MAP sensor stored away for the possible supercharger, so who knows what will happen. Below this post, I’ll post my currently installed parts/mods and will also post the parts/projects I’m currently working on. There’s a ton of little things I’ve done I know I didn’t remember to list, so I’ll try to slowly fill in what’s missing. Feel free to ask any questions, we’re here to help each other.
Stay safe out there, and remember- You only live once! Do what makes you happy.
This is my current project list/parts to-do list I have stored away- I'm planning to have the differential rebuilt soon and will install all of the other Z1 diff goodies when that happens. Had a bunch of items installed by RAV Performance based in Wellington, FL and couldn't be happier with the outcome. Highly recommend.
Next, or really at the same time I should say, is boost. I’ve researched all the turbo and supercharger kits over the years, and decided an air-to-air supercharger is best for my goals. Z1 recently released a 370Z Rotrex kit and is planning to release a G37 kit soon, so I’ll be using their kit- but with modifications. I like the cold pipe routing of the SOHO Stillen air-to-air upgrade, and managed to find a Stillen intake manifold, so I’ll be using that. Will pair the Stillen mani with a SOHO y-pipe to throttle body and use that with the Z1 Rotrex kit.
Past this, my next to-do is a roll bar with a DOT approved 4point harness for the street, then grab some Carbotech pads, HANS, and a 5/6 point clip in for the track. I was also put in touch with a local fabricator who does amazing work, and will be working with them to have a custom half cage made right after the diff is rebuilt. I already removed my rear bench seat, so I will try to come up with a removable cover with an access panel to the fuel pump and share that for others who plan to track or delete the rear seats and still want to keep it clean looking. I enjoy building nice things and am happy to share my work to help others. Still need to look back at designing and installing some cooling vents in the OEM hood, not enough time free yet for that project. I might end up sourcing someone to fabricate these, if there's enough interest to bring to production whenever I get around to it. I'm tired of wanting parts I can't find, maybe I'll start designing a few specific parts, just need an actual engineer to check everything over
Current To-Do:
+CJM baffled oil pan - ready to install
+Wavetrac LSD - ready to install
+RJM Tilton HD clutch master cylinder - ready to install
+ARP extended wheel studs - ready to install
+Z1 urethane diff bushings - ready to install
+Z1 diff cover - ready to install
+Z1 diff brace - ready to install
+Z1 subframe collars - ready to install
+Stillen intake manifold - waiting for Z1 s/c
+Repaint rear bumper +Project Kics duralumin hub rings (installed) +Handheld fire extinguisher (peace of mind and worth every single penny, will get a clean agent also) - need to order asap (installed) +Fire extinguisher floor mount (done - installed H3R universal mount behind passenger seat) +OEM 4.08 final drive R&P - sold/not installing +Nismo oil drain plug (replacing Z1 drain plug) - installed +Nismo oil filter (replacing K&N HP-1010) - installed +AAM 2.5” resonated high flow cats (these use Gesi 10025 cats) - installed +HKS Super Fire spark plugs (OEM heat range, due to replace my stock plugs) - installed +Forged Performance brake lines (replacing Z1 lines, these are the best of the best) - complete bust, was sent the wrong lines and they went out of business +SPL front end links - installed +SPL rear end links - installed +Z1 urethane motor mounts - installed +Z1 35mm front sway bar & HD brackets - installed +Gates serpentine belt - installed +Fast Intentions 34 row oil cooler - installed +Mishimoto radiator - installed +New OEM thermostat (why not with the new radiator going in) - installed +Z1 bleeder port (replacing the temp sensor bleeder port, no real need with ecutek) - installed +Z1 silicone master hose set (I went ahead and bought a new set of black Z1 hoses...I'm partial to them still, from GA myself) - installed
Wishlist:
+Aeromotive Stealth 340lph fuel pump
+Radium in-tank surge pump housing
+ID 1050x injectors w/PNP harnesses
+Block-off plate for Stillen S/c
+SOHO y-pipe to throttle body
+Z1 front upper control arms
+SPL bumpsteer outer tie rod ends
+SPL rear camber arms (replacing SPC arms)
+SPL rear traction arms
+SPL eccentric lockout kit (replacing SPC kit)
+Takata Drift III harnesses (for street)
+Custom roll bar w/door bars
Somehow I forgot to mention I have the sport accessory muffler boxed up in storage. Another OEM item I wanted to grab before it potentially becomes discontinued. I was planning to have some 60mm connecting pipes fabricated to attach the HKS midpipe to the sport accessory muffler, but we moved before I could have that done. So eventually I’ll find a fabrication shop and have them fab some connectors for the sport accessory muffler. I’m hoping that would open the exhaust and give a very similar note to the old G35 coupe. If it sounds bad, I’ll probably have an OEM sport accessory muffler for sale in the future
Im also considering the Tanabe Revel Y-pipe and midpipe since that’s the only other 60mm exhaust that would bolt up to the OEM sport accessory muffler without causing a diameter difference in piping (even though I’ll be running 2.5” RHFCs for that matter, lol). Another “we’ll see what happens” mod.
Forged Performance brake lines came in the mail a few days ago. Quality is superb. Holy thick. These must be 2x the thickness of the standard Z1 braided lines. I’ll get pictures of both lines next to each other when they go on.
Reached out to Z1 for an ETA update on the Mishi radiator...hopefully it will come in within the next few weeks, I'm itching to drop my car off at the shop and get this stuff done. Only thing I have left to order are the Wavetrac and 4.08 ring & pinion.
It also looks like the IPL tow hook cover (top half of the cover that is visible in the fascia when removed) can almost clip back in when used with the Z1 tow strap. It looks close, so I'll mess with it more when I have time. I may end up buying a spare tow hook cover and/or cutting a notch in the middle of the cover for the tow hook to not push against the cover- it wouldn't affect the function/clips of the tow hook cover at all this way. Little things like this can go a long way and make a big difference visually so we'll see how it turns out. I love my Dremel...
Separate note - I think I'm going to reserve the new 2023 Z (6MT, of course, and not selling the G37) pending the misses' approval. New Z will be my DD with light mods planned. Maybe just an exhaust and aftermarket wheels for now...I do have those 2x spare Work Emotion wheels that might end up being the perfect offset for the rear
Reached out to Z1 for an ETA update on the Mishi radiator...hopefully it will come in within the next few weeks, I'm itching to drop my car off at the shop and get this stuff done. Only thing I have left to order are the Wavetrac and 4.08 ring & pinion.
Separate note - I think I'm going to reserve the new 2023 Z (6MT, of course) pending the misses' approval (not selling the G37). New Z will be my DD with light mods planned. Maybe just an exhaust and aftermarket wheels for now...I do have those 2x spare Work Emotion wheels that might end up being the perfect offset for the rear
That sounds like a great idea, what does that mean for the G?
That sounds like a great idea, what does that mean for the G?
Nothing at all will change for the G, still doing everything planned including this big install coming up. It doesn't change the plans to eventually rebuild the engine and possibly supercharge the G either. This car will stay with me and in our family, and will hopefully get passed on to our kids and so-on if they are into cars and appreciate it as much as I do. Never selling, staying true to my origins and love the reminder of hard work paying off every time I look at it or drive it
Another little update, kind of a bummer but I knew what I was getting into ordering a backordered radiator. Z1 said Mishimoto won't be able to ship my radiator direct to me until the first week of July. So now I think I'll tackle everything else first (bushings, mounts, collars, SPL endlinks, rear diff) then do the rad hoses, heater hoses, radiator swap, and oil cooler install in a separate shop visit once the radiator eventually comes in. I’d do the oil cooler at the same time to avoid pulling the new IPL bumper I just installed 2x times. Only 1x bumper pull this way.
I keep going back and forth and my head on the 4.08 gears for now with higher HP plans for the future. I think for my plans it might be best to hold off on the 4.08 for now. Still will be throwing the Wavetrac in along with the other diff parts. I’m thinking I will still want to supercharge it, but either way will be going for more power so the 4.08 won’t be ideal. Just sounds like fun for N/A.
Edit- I think I'm going to hold off on the 4.08 for now, it seems like the majority of boosted owners keep stock gearing or go even lower to avoid traction issues in 1st-3rd depending on power levels. Still definitely installing the Wavetrac...last part to order for now along with an OEM stub axle.
04-22-2022, 09:11 AM
