Build Threads

Project Panda

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 4, 2019 | 04:32 PM
  #61  
qmantran's Avatar
qmantran
Registered Member
 
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 183
From: ATX
Nice rpf1s you got there. What size are they?
Reply
Old Apr 4, 2019 | 04:34 PM
  #62  
projectpanda13's Avatar
projectpanda13
Thread Starter
Registered Member
5 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 389
From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by qmantran
Nice rpf1s you got there. What size are they?
Thanks, sadly they are 17x9 and won't fit on the G. I had them on my previous car. I'm trying to sell them now.
Reply
Old Apr 5, 2019 | 03:46 PM
  #63  
qmantran's Avatar
qmantran
Registered Member
 
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 183
From: ATX
Originally Posted by projectpanda13
Thanks, sadly they are 17x9 and won't fit on the G. I had them on my previous car. I'm trying to sell them now.
I have 18x9 +35 rpf1 in the rear. They clear the rear akebonos but not the fronts.

Enkei told me the fronts will need 18x8.5 +30 to clear front akebonos.


Reply
Old Apr 5, 2019 | 03:52 PM
  #64  
projectpanda13's Avatar
projectpanda13
Thread Starter
Registered Member
5 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 389
From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by qmantran
I have 18x9 +35 rpf1 in the rear. They clear the rear akebonos but not the fronts.

Enkei told me the fronts will need 18x8.5 +30 to clear front akebonos.

Dam that looks so good. I know 18x9.5 +15 also clears the Akebono up front, but +38 will not.
Reply
Old Apr 5, 2019 | 11:11 PM
  #65  
qmantran's Avatar
qmantran
Registered Member
 
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 183
From: ATX
Originally Posted by projectpanda13
Dam that looks so good. I know 18x9.5 +15 also clears the Akebono up front, but +38 will not.
I wouldn't recommend 18x9.5 +15. Those are really aggressive and will protrude pretty far past the fender.

There's a guy I'm following on Instagram with 18x9.5 +15 rpf1 in SBC on his g37 6 speed with akebonos and they look really aggressive.

This is how my 18x9 +35 look





Even my 18x9 +35 sticks out a bit more than I would like. The 18x9.5 +15 stick out WAY more.
Reply
Old Apr 5, 2019 | 11:26 PM
  #66  
projectpanda13's Avatar
projectpanda13
Thread Starter
Registered Member
5 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 389
From: Atlanta, GA
i agree it’s aggressive on a sedan but if someone really wanted to, with enough camber it can fit. I’d like to get something lighter than what I currently have and don’t want to rock RPF1s again, but they are so hard to beat for the price and weight
Reply
Old Apr 6, 2019 | 09:50 AM
  #67  
qmantran's Avatar
qmantran
Registered Member
 
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 183
From: ATX
Originally Posted by projectpanda13
i agree it’s aggressive on a sedan but if someone really wanted to, with enough camber it can fit. I’d like to get something lighter than what I currently have and don’t want to rock RPF1s again, but they are so hard to beat for the price and weight
Enkei nt03+m are cheap and light.
Reply
Old Apr 10, 2019 | 10:36 AM
  #68  
projectpanda13's Avatar
projectpanda13
Thread Starter
Registered Member
5 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 389
From: Atlanta, GA
I was very disappointed over this past weekend. I was expecting the subframe collars to be at most a 1 hour job but it ended up taking me 4 hours.

First, the captive-weld nut in the chassis that the small sub-frame brace is held in by breaks on me so I had to cut the bolt off. I spent most of my time trying to find something that would fit in the space and I didn't have anything to burn it off.

I also sheared off all three bolts that held up the plastic rear shield.



During the process of installing the collars, I guess my rubber bushings were in such great condition that I had the hardest time fitting it in. I had to resort to using a jack with a tube pipe to push the collar in.

This is how it current fits in the rear. Is this normal?



I sold this particular lip a while back and bought one brand new pre-painted, but I never installed it since my bumper was in such bad shape. This lip happen to be on sale by the guy I sold it to and asked if I could buy it back. Now, I have a crappy lip with a crappy bumper. A perfect match.




Reply
Old Apr 10, 2019 | 10:50 AM
  #69  
Baadnewsburr's Avatar
Baadnewsburr
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,784
Likes: 320
From: Toronto
Originally Posted by projectpanda13
I was very disappointed over this past weekend. I was expecting the subframe collars to be at most a 1 hour job but it ended up taking me 4 hours.

First, the captive-weld nut in the chassis that the small sub-frame brace is held in by breaks on me so I had to cut the bolt off. I spent most of my time trying to find something that would fit in the space and I didn't have anything to burn it off.

I also sheared off all three bolts that held up the plastic rear shield.

During the process of installing the collars, I guess my rubber bushings were in such great condition that I had the hardest time fitting it in. I had to resort to using a jack with a tube pipe to push the collar in.

This is how it current fits in the rear. Is this normal?
sucks to hear...almost sounds like you are working on a northern car...broken bolts seized from corrosion is usually half the working time in areas where they use road salt....tons of PB blaster and a good thread chaser set is a must up here ... I hope you post a you tube video on your install though...Iv'e had my collars sittign i nthe garage for at least a year now waiting on me getting to them...

can you post better pics of the bushing sitting? its hard to tell from the pic posted but it does look to be sitting a little high
Reply
Old Apr 10, 2019 | 10:55 AM
  #70  
projectpanda13's Avatar
projectpanda13
Thread Starter
Registered Member
5 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 389
From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by Hashim
sucks to hear...almost sounds like you are working on a northern car...broken bolts seized from corrosion is usually half the working time in areas where they use road salt....tons of PB blaster and a good thread chaser set is a must up here ... I hope you post a you tube video on your install though...Iv'e had my collars sittign i nthe garage for at least a year now waiting on me getting to them...

can you post better pics of the bushing sitting? its hard to tell from the pic posted but it does look to be sitting a little high
I did some recording and I'll edit the video tonight or tomorrow and post it up. I'll swing by by car tonight and get some photos for ya.
Reply
Old Apr 11, 2019 | 04:08 PM
  #71  
qmantran's Avatar
qmantran
Registered Member
 
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 183
From: ATX
I also just installed Z1 subframe collar inserts yesterday. The top collar inserts were simple and easily fell into place. The lower collars were a bitch. I sprayed the bushing with silicone lubricant and also sprayed the collar inserts. Didn't make going in any easier. I had a rubber mallet to beat it in and didn't have any luck. Since I had the car up on a lift I decided to grab a pole jack and use a 38mm axle nut socket to help press the lower inserts in. Everything went in fine after that.

Took me about 1.5 hours and that was because I wasted a good bit of time trying to use a rubber mallet to hit the lower collar in. I finally decided to just remove part of my exhaust to get more access and use a pole jack to press it in.
Reply
Old Apr 11, 2019 | 04:31 PM
  #72  
projectpanda13's Avatar
projectpanda13
Thread Starter
Registered Member
5 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 389
From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by qmantran
I also just installed Z1 subframe collar inserts yesterday. The top collar inserts were simple and easily fell into place. The lower collars were a bitch. I sprayed the bushing with silicone lubricant and also sprayed the collar inserts. Didn't make going in any easier. I had a rubber mallet to beat it in and didn't have any luck. Since I had the car up on a lift I decided to grab a pole jack and use a 38mm axle nut socket to help press the lower inserts in. Everything went in fine after that.

Took me about 1.5 hours and that was because I wasted a good bit of time trying to use a rubber mallet to hit the lower collar in. I finally decided to just remove part of my exhaust to get more access and use a pole jack to press it in.
Question: Does the rear top collar protrude above the rubber bushing a bit, unlike the front collar? I thought it odd that the front collar sat flush with the rubber bushing and my top rears did not.

I had a lot of trouble with my rear bottom collar. I had to use jack and tube to get enough force to push it in.
Reply
Old Apr 11, 2019 | 07:15 PM
  #73  
qmantran's Avatar
qmantran
Registered Member
 
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,153
Likes: 183
From: ATX





Reply
Old Apr 12, 2019 | 08:55 AM
  #74  
projectpanda13's Avatar
projectpanda13
Thread Starter
Registered Member
5 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 389
From: Atlanta, GA
Thanks for the reference pictures. Mine looks the same then and I have nothing to worry about.

Hopefully I'll have my diff bushing cut out and replaced this weekend. Once I have that done, I should be smooth sailing for the rest of the install of the differential and my exhaust.
Reply
Old Apr 12, 2019 | 09:53 PM
  #75  
jpowersjr2's Avatar
jpowersjr2
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 220
From: Brentwood, TN
I used my jack to push the subframe up and then began bolting it back. It eventually went into place properly.
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:28 PM.