Sounds reasonable, although you're probably a little low. I got 16 and your car is lower miles and has a few more mods.

No way is a G37S realistically selling for 30+.

 

Hell, I keep my cars until $1500 is about right LOL. As a data point, I paid 18K for my 2013 with 44,000 miles in 2018.

 

Yes, but your 2012 was only six or seven years old when you sold it, right? My 2011 is a nine year old car.

And every year it gets another year older, LOL.

 

6 yeas old. But lower mileage should offset some. These cars have crappy resale value.

 

Well, I'm keeping it at least two more years, if not longer. Probably longer. Not to ***** the OP's thread, but he started talking about resale value, so it's all good I suppose. My only significant concern is worrying about gasket failure in the rear timing chain cover. Other than that, I'm still very content.

No, that's not true. I also worry about minor damage that actually totals the car. I'd be lying if I said that didn't bother me.

 

That's a good point. I think insurance companies declare a car a total loss when repairs are like 80% of total value. And when you look at trade in values on the G, that could easily happen with relatively minor damage. It might be worth having declared value insurance if your provider offers it.

 

Very true. Every car needs the right buyer.

Mileage is definitely one of the most important factors when it comes to the value of a car, like your 70k+ example.

 

What a great thread! I have loads of questions, for the mods I'll be doing this spring. I'll create posts for those.

The real reason for the reply: How are you connecting up the resistors to cancel the airbag light? The values for the resistors shouldn't change. The only thing that could is if corrosion is building in the connection to the resistor and causing the total value to drift, triggering the airbag light and when you change to a new one, everything is clean again. Just a thought.

 

Fire away when you have any questions. I am running out of mods to do for this car. But that also means this car is becoming pretty sweet.

All the resistors only last about 4-6 months before throwing an airbag light. They have never had any sort of corrosion. The issue is that no one has really tried this on a 2013 so I am left to guess the correct resistance without taking the risk of hooking up a meter to my stock seats and triggering the side air bag. I am running the same type of resistor that Bride makes specifically for Nissan now so hopefully this will be the end of all this BS.

 

The $150 answer to the question, "Should I really get the Z1 subframe collars?"

LOL

 

Non definitely DO NOT hook up an ohm meter to the airbag! I was thinking the leads were getting a thin oxide coating. There's no way they are drifting out of range. Maybe try increasing the resistance by a little?

Rochester, in my 11 year old car, I'm sure EVERY bushing is rotten. I looked at those collars, seems like a very easy way to "create" a semi metallic bushing. Saves a ton of labor over replacing them. Since the bushings are not serviceable, according to Nissan, I'm guessing they're not available? IIRC, there are poly urethane aftermarket bushings out there. I HATE poly squeaking, though the subframe probably won't.

 

Yup, you know the answer to that question. lol

 

Everything you said makes sense.

And honestly I'm just laughing at myself, because it's a safe bet I'll slip those collars in some day, looking for something to do.

 

Try a small low ohm pot. Play with it till it stops coming back. Measure the resistance. And let us know. That way we won't have to figure it out.

 

You went ahead and got the Bride ones? Or just are using a comparable spec resistor?

A thought - you might need a milspec resistor. Milspec usually means a wider heat range without substantial change in resistance; that is often a problem with cheaper car electronics - the components can't handle the heat range of a car interior or engine bay.