I know what you mean about driving your car for the 1st time in a while. I'm always amazed at how dialed in my car feels compared to anything else if I have not driven it for an extended period of time.

What part of the trans mount is tiring you? Too much vibration? You didn't get the solid mount did you? I thought we both had the urethane bushing from Z1. It's funny how the added NVH actually compliments the sound of my Stillen exhaust somehow. Difficult to explain, but it actually enhances it. I would be hard pressed to give up the lack of slop in shifting without the trans mount, but then again, maybe the motor mounts and rear differential brace I believe we both have will make up the difference. You will have to let me know what changes you notice if you go back to stock.

 

We do both have the same poly mount from Z1. And for years now (years? LOL) it's been totally fine. I get all the reasons why I like it. But there's one thing that just gnaws at me. When letting off the throttle there's a common (albeit infrequent) resonance frequency which I can't stand. It manifests both as a noise and a vibration, and it's not good. I mean, the problem is somewhat rare, but when it happens I find myself instinctively playing with the throttle in order to make it go away. Anyway, I'm starting to wish it just stop happening entirely.

If I go back to stock, I will most certainly reflect (no pun) on the changes. Pretty sure the original mount is in the attic somewhere. Or I could buy a new one... IDK. Labor costs are barely an hour up on the lift, so that's not really a consideration.

I could probably sell the poly mount for half cost on the forum pretty easily. It was only $200, IIRC.

 

Are you sure it is not from the rear gears? I get that in my car if I ease up on the gas and decelerate at just the right speed. I don't get anything like that emanating from the transmission mount.

 

I'm positive. The rear gear upgrade was years later.

It started immediately after the transmission mount install. It's very Infrequent, like I said, so I just deal with it when it occurs, but that's when it started... with the poly transmission mount.

 

Weird. Do you occasionally get the same thing with the rear gears that I was talking about?

 

No, although the two situations seem similar, don't they? I mean, the right answer is to stop with all these poly bushings and bracing and stuff, to get back to an all-the-time comfortable car. One without vibrations and weird freaking noises like this. But then that wouldn't be any fun. And the fun outweighs the occasional criticisms.

I don't know, man. There might come a time when I go back to OEM for the transmission mount because de-modding something simple like this kind of feels like a modification after all these years. That might seem messed up, but whatever.

 

Makes perfect sense to me. It is that fine balance between good performance, but not so much that you have to sacrifice too much driveability. It's funny how that scale shifts as you get older toward comfort. I am really starting to dig cars with massaging seats.

 

It is very, very hard to make a proper GT car/street rod. There are so many aspects that have to be carefully balanced, and the manufacturers also have to deal with fuel economy, emissions, crash testing, and of course the trap of the niche market.

Making a stupidly fast car is easy, if you don't care about the rest of the journey.

 

In January, I bought the EcuTek ProEcu Kit. In March, I bought the EcuTek license from AdminTuning. And in May, I will be getting the car remote tuned.

And that's all gravy, but when data logging, the wired cable in this kit would be a total PITA to drive with. Note the pic here, and derp... it looks like I need new winter matts.



However, 2.2Lude suggested I get a cable extension, which I did. Should make things much less awkward.



Only $10 through Amazon:

 

I didn't even know that a cable extension existed. Nice! I plugged that damn cable in so many times to get my Z1 tune just right with Jon and I was always really careful with my left foot/leg since they clearly did not engineer that cable to be used while driving. Unfortunate since that is about the only time you use it. Nice solution you found there.

 

April in Western NY... I'm feeling like I want to get my summer wheels & tires back on the car. Every year since 2014, which would be seven years now, the Vossens come off the car for Winter, and back on in the Spring. Winter off the car gives me the opportunity to do a detailed cleaning, clay bar and wax. And seven years later they still look as good as the day I bought them.

More importantly to me, I still love these wheels. While not inexpensive, there are vastly more expensive wheels out there. And while not really heavy, there are certainly lighter wheels to be had. But there's something about this elegant, sweeping 10-spoke design that still speaks to me all these years later. It's a good feeling being entirely content with something.

So I took another basement pic.

 

Rochester you purchased Wheels thats a new one for you.Those are a nice looking set.i picked these up for my G last summer hope they are a good look for the car.

 

You clay bar your wheels? Now that is dedication. I cannot say I have ever gone to that extent, but I did just put Ceramic Auto Armor on my Jeep rims to make them easier to keep clean, so I am really only one step away from that. Then again, they are anthracite so they should do an excellent job of hiding any brake dust.

 

Yes.

What started me down this road was about 20 years ago, when I bought into using this product called Wheel Wax. It was an easy application compound allegedly designed to deal with rail dust. I was using it on my factory wheels for my old Maxima, as well as the wife's car. Years later, I just started using paste wax instead, or whatever product I was using at the time. But for the last decade I started including claybar to the process, and it's really made all the difference. The wheels look and feel new, and they clean up very easily.

For the last couple of years, I've been using products called "Seal & Squeal" and "Gloss Sauce", from Lithium Auto Care. https://lithiumautocare.com/

It's kind of pricey, but I'm a fan. Still am.

 

I'm at the beginning process of getting remotely tuned, having hired a tuner, loaded the license, done some data-logging, and now waiting on the first custom file.

Anyway, I got to thinking about the question of how much this is costing me. Here's the answer.

A used EcuTek ProECU Kit, wired, for $216.
An EcuTek license, for $300.
Tuner services for $400, plus another $12 for purchase protection through PayPal.
A flat OBD cable, because the wired dongle is a PITA to drive around with. That was $10.
A DC to AC converter for the cig lighter because my old laptop battery sucks. That was $18.

All told so far... $956.