Hey guys,

After having my first flat (rear left) and noticing tire thread I'm looking for new tires and brake rotors/pads. Further examination of wheel well showed I went over a pretty good size bolt that got stuck on wheel well liner, loud bang alright. Also noticed a shine on the shock pictured here. Is this from the tire rubbing?

Previous owner had Bridgestone Potenza S-04PP's 225/45 R19 in the front and 245/40 R19 in the rear. Pricing in my area with Firestone has these tires out the door installed for $1,043.73.

Tires/sizes worth considering? I've been reading a bit here about installing other tire sizes/cam kits etc. My car is stock and I would consider modifying here and there.

On that note I'm also looking for recommendations on rotors/pads. Driving style? Significant amount of braking.

Thanks!


Bolt recovered from wheel well liner, next to tire damage.

Liner damage where I recovered bolt from.

Shock.

Rear Tire.

Front tire.

 

You can go wider on tires with those wheels. Tires rubbing rear dampers is not unknown. Look in Tech/Suspension and Brakes for brake ideas.

 

Last set of s04s I got in 245 and 275 with tax was 800 from discount tire wo certs

 

Thanks. Will definitely go with 245/40/19 in front and 275/35/19 in rear. After reading posts and reviews I'm leaning on Firestone Firehawk Indy 500's @

245/40/19 for $173 from Firestone

275/35/19 for $196 from Firestone.

I'm considering asking a local INFINITI dealer to match price and let them install over a local shop. I also have a local America's Tire shop with lots of great reviews close by.

As far as rotors and pads it looks like Stoptech rotors with Hawk HPS 5.0 are a good combination here.

Sports package rotors call for 14" 330mm in front and 13.8" 330mm in rear.

The specs for the rotors may be wrong. VIN number has my car as a 2010 Coupe Journey with Sport Package. https://infinitig37.com/10-coupe-press.html

So for sure 2 piston caliper on front and single piston on back. There was a link in these forums (https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...40-brakes.html) where it has 2010 models at 330mm rotors. Stoptech has it as 320 front and 307 back?

 

Tires came out to $840.91 delivered to a local reputable installer.

Installer recommended "advanced wheel balancing" and alignment if required.

Still looking for info on rotor & pads options.

 

There is a sticky in the Brakes and Suspension subforum that clearly indicate rotor dimensions for the various packages.

 

Thanks, I'll look to confirm. See attached specs. "P" for Sport package has the front rotor at 14.0 X 1.3 and rear rotor at 13.8 X 0.8. I'm going to pull wheels tomorrow and measure to confirm. I imagine 3rd party rotors should be as close to original if not exact same. I was looking at matching Stoptech with Hawks pads as they would seem to work well for intended driving but again want to confirm these measurements and keep options open.

I was also reading from old posts that PowerStop rotors may not be best for aggressive driving and may suffer from early warping. Perhaps from dust more than rotors themselves as others claim.

 

Front. 14"

Rear 13.8".

 

Disabuse yourself of the notion of warping. Rotors don't warp except under very extreme conditions. The warp is actually uneven deposits of pad material, which can be removed with an "Italian tune-up".

If you hate cleaning your wheels, you'll have to go with some type of ceramic pad. While perfectly adequate for the street, if you really think you drive aggressively, you'll need pads that tend to dust. To me, an aggressive driver is one who takes their car to a road course and really drives the snot out it. There are a few of us on this board who do just that.

 

Thanks! Got it. Can you expand on cleaning your wheels?

 

Tires installed and vehicle aligned. Rear left camber adjustment bottomed out. Rear total toe at -0.01 degree. Nothing else they could do. Have you seen this before? It is worth adjusting?

Rear left camber moved, rear total toe -0.01 degrees.

 

Rear toe-out like that might make your car a tad squirrelly. Generally, you want a little more toe-in in the rear for stability. And since toe is the tire killer, you should ask for less toe-in up front. I run zero toe up front and the car doesn't wander to speak of.

 

Front Specs.

Thanks. I watched this video to better understand camber, caster and toe, .

For the rear wheels, he showed me and said he maxed out the adjustment for rear left toe and brought it from 0.11 to -0.01. He also mentioned the only way to bring that rear left toe to 0 now would be to purchase a rod that allows for further adjustment.

At 4:13 this video says "the toe in has a very low angle", as an example they use 0.05 (perhaps standard on most cars?). Then he says, "each car will have an optimum set of wheel angle (in reference to toe) decided by the car manufacturer. I was curious to know manufacturer toe in specs so I looked at the manual and found these specs attached under "front suspension" and "rear suspension".

It seems nominal, min. and max. front total toe-in should be 0.04, 0.00 and 0.08 degrees respectively.
And nominal. min. and max. rear total toe-in should be 0.12, 0.00 and 0.23 degrees respectively.

If I was to go by these specs I would probably ask him to adjust front left and right toe in to 0.02 for a total toe of 0.04 and definitely try adjusting the rear.



I'm curious if these nominal manufacturer specs may be driven more by safety vs tire wear or perhaps both.

 

If you need the toe arms to get rear toe-in, that's what you have to do. You could tell the tech that widening the slot is a tried-and-true procedure on Z34/V36 platforms and that would get you within spec at minimum cost.

The uninformed driver likes the car to steer straight (zero rear thrust angle) and steer itself straight a little (front toe-in). The nominal values achieve both with as little tire wear as is reasonable as determined by the factory.

If you like a little more engagement with your car, zero toe in front is very livable. You want a little toe-in at the rear for stability. The car steers easier and is more eager to change direction at the slight cost of paying a little more attention to lane keeping. And tires last longer.

 

Thanks for your well written explanation.

I found these online, https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...s-p-12182.html. Do you know if I have to measure my current toe-in adjustment rod and make sure the new one provides for more adjustment?

Please forgive my lack of understanding but what is "widening the slot"?

On the Wheel Alignment sheet above it states Thrust Angle was 0.08 before and 0.00 after.

I inquired about the alignment equipment being used, hunter, and he said that's what dealers use and that it was very good. It looks that way.

I find it interesting that according to this vehicle manufacturer specs the Maximum Total front toe-in angle in decimal degrees is 0.08 yet the Wheel Alignment sheet shows 0.11 with 0.00 angle of steer ahead all on green.