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This is the first time I have posted on this site. I apologize in advance if this is in the wrong section or something is not correct, however, I have searched for this exact issue and have not found anything and I need to solve urgently.
I have a 2010 g37x lowered on BC coilovers. I installed them myself, but I could not get the height exactly where I wanted to. I took it to a local shop and after looking at their work, I believe they were adjusting the preload on the strut instead of the height adjustment on the actual spring (because they are independent). Fast forward, I got rear camber kits installed and about a month ago, new tires.
These are summer performance and I do understand that they will wear fast. However, on the front, I am still around 10/32 or more and the rears are TOAST I'm talking like already at 3/32. I have put maybe 2k miles on the new tires.
What I think it could be is the preload being set incorrectly and the tire is pushing and thus, wearing a lot faster than it should.
It is important to mention that I got an alignment when I first put on the coilovers and again when I put on the rear camber kits.
If ya'll have any thoughts about what else this could be, I would really appreciate any replies with ideas.
Do you have your alignment printout? That kind of quick wear sounds like a toe issue, did you get the alignment after the shop did this "adjusting". Did you get the toe bolts and elongate the toe adjusting slots along w/ your new camber arms?
Too much preload in the back would lessen the shock travel but it would have to be quite a bit to cause any effect on the tire wear since the loading of the suspension would be much more than what a preload would do. The preload is basically just to keep the spring slightly compressed when the suspension is completely unloaded.
Do you have your alignment printout? That kind of quick wear sounds like a toe issue, did you get the alignment after the shop did this "adjusting". Did you get the toe bolts and elongate the toe adjusting slots along w/ your new camber arms?
Too much preload in the back would lessen the shock travel but it would have to be quite a bit to cause any effect on the tire wear since the loading of the suspension would be much more than what a preload would do. The preload is basically just to keep the spring slightly compressed when the suspension is completely unloaded.
Welcome to the site BTW.
Yes, I got the camber kits installed and alignment was done at the same place. I'm assuming that they did it after and I made sure they knew that they had to elongate the toe bolts. The printout shows that the toe is not bad:
edit: i got the coilvers adjusted right when I put them on. That was back in August. This printout is after I got the camber kits installed.
You said you got the rear camber kit set up about a month ago but that alignment sheet is dated April 2nd. Just going by that sheet your alignment settings look fine in the back, front camber is really the only point that's excessive.
Anything happen between the time you got it aligned and now?
You said you got the rear camber kit set up about a month ago but that alignment sheet is dated April 2nd. Just going by that sheet your alignment settings look fine in the back, front camber is really the only point that's excessive.
Anything happen between the time you got it aligned and now?
Brad- here’s a timeline of what I’ve done.
July 2017:
-coilovers installed
height “adjusted” and initial alignment
December 2017:
-Bridgestone Blizzaks put on (also very worn)
*I thought the bad wear in the back was due to the camber kits, so I bought those soon after to try to fix this wear.
April 2018:
-Rear camber kits installed and another alignment
May 2018:
-new summer tires put on.
The wear is nearly even, almost 3/32 all around. i can send a picture of the wear of that would help. I work at a tire store and what do workers have suggested was that is is due the tire also being laterally worn somehow, causing them to wear faster.
Indeed, the middle section shows toe settings. Other than the slight thrust angle, I don't see anything obviously wrong. Just keep this mantra in mind: toe is the tire killer. Without having the factory recommended settings for comparison, it can be difficult to judge if that toe is too much. At least the front is less than the rear.
You might have worn bushings in the rear or maybe a rear toe arm is so rusted it's flexing? I assume Colorado salts their roads in winter.
You might have worn bushings in the rear or maybe a rear toe arm is so rusted it's flexing? I assume Colorado salts their roads in winter.
It might be this - at static ride height it's fine (as it would be when you're getting it aligned), but as soon as you add weight or even accelerate, it changes the toe curve out back and cause additional wear when you're driving.
Indeed, the middle section shows toe settings. Other than the slight thrust angle, I don't see anything obviously wrong. Just keep this mantra in mind: toe is the tire killer. Without having the factory recommended settings for comparison, it can be difficult to judge if that toe is too much. At least the front is less than the rear.
You might have worn bushings in the rear or maybe a rear toe arm is so rusted it's flexing? I assume Colorado salts their roads in winter.
Originally Posted by bPChaos
It might be this - at static ride height it's fine (as it would be when you're getting it aligned), but as soon as you add weight or even accelerate, it changes the toe curve out back and cause additional wear when you're driving.
Thank you all for your input. I guess the next question is where to take it? do you all think that a generic shop (Brakes Plus, etc) would help? Or maybe a specialized shop for suspension or even the dealership. I will call around and see but it seems right now it could be a multitude of things.
How many miles on your 2010 and what tire brand/model are you running?
Interesting that you noted that your previous Blizzaks also were wearing poorly, was it just the back set that wore quickly there as well?
Unless you're doing burnouts on a regular basis or running drag radials, something in the back is making your tires fight their natural rotation. Keep us posted on what you find out and good luck!
How many miles on your 2010 and what tire brand/model are you running?
Interesting that you noted that your previous Blizzaks also were wearing poorly, was it just the back set that wore quickly there as well?
Unless you're doing burnouts on a regular basis or running drag radials, something in the back is making your tires fight their natural rotation. Keep us posted on what you find out and good luck!
Currently have 80,300 miles on the car.
my summer set are Nitto NT55 G2s. No burnouts for me, especially since I’m all wheel drive. Yes, same problem on the blizzaks where the tears wore extremely fast, but I thought it was the excessive camber.
Expect updates in the future about this problem from me.
Hi all, went in for an alignment today and that was definitely the problem. my toe on both sides in the rear was very out of spec, much different than what the earlier alignment printout said.
This drastic difference in the first and second alignment made me and the employees conspire that the alignment I got done when putting on the camber kit was somehow fabricated, so note to anyone in the Denver metro area- stay away from this business.
however, the employees said that I could not have the best of both worlds in respect to toe and camber, even with the camber kits. It still doesn't make complete sense how this is, but as you all have said, camber is the better of two evils, so even though I will have to rotate and even completely flip the tire to stop the inner wear due to camber, it is better than running through tires every month due to the toe being severely out of spec.
To conclude this-
anyone looking to drop their G's should really be ready to face another whole multitude of problems with other various suspension parts and buy the necessary kits (Front and back) as it will hopefully help some future headaches. Don't jump right into it like I did and expect everything to be perfect first shot
Glad you are at a better alignment although there shouldn't be much trouble for a good shop to get the alignment (camber & toe) in spec w/ the rear camber/toe kit properly installed. Something still seems off there. My G that's been lowered as much as 2" was able to get my camber to -1.0 and my toe well in spec w/ just a slight toe-in.
It almost seems that even though you state the toe slots were elongated, it appears that you're not getting that extra range that the new toe bolts would provide.
The specs on your latest sheet look very similar to Gs that have been lowered w/ just camber arms (no toe bolt kit), and the shop just max's out the oem toe adjustment and sthen adjusts the camber the best they can until it starts to nudge toe out of spec. This will result in the heavier camber that you're seeing while keeping your toe on the edge of spec. At least that's what it looks like to me.
But at least your tires should be rolling much easier down the road
06-26-2018, 09:45 PM
HELP-- EXTREME tire wear on coilovers
I'm talking like already at 3/32. I have put maybe 2k miles on the new tires. 
