Whats going on guys, I have done some research and watched a few youtube how to's and feel pretty confident that I should be able to swap out my rotors and pads without too much trouble.

With this being my first attempt of doing my own brake work, I wanted to see if any of you had any tips to ensure that I am successful.

Grey

 

The rotors have a threaded hole that you can use to get them off the hub, this is very handy if yours are subject to heavy rust. I believe it's a 12mm (not sure though, I just "borrowed" one from my engine bay, lol). When removing the rear rotors just do the first one slowly so you can make note of the emergency brake shoes & their setup. It's pretty simple and straightforward but being a first timer it never hurts to take a bit more time.

Hopefully you have a torque wrench, you want to retorque to the proper values. Here's the FSM for an 09 Sedan, the torque should be the same for your year
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G37/Sedan/2009/BR.pdf
FWIW the last number in parenthesis is the ft. lbs if it's a black box w/ a white wrench, or inch lbs if it's a white box, black wrench. All will be foot lbs except for the bleeder screws.

I would do a complete fluid flush as well, a synthetic dot 3-4 is fine. Be sure your master cylinder is full all the time while bleeding the system, and for our Infiniti ABS system the sequence is as follows~

passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front.

Also be sure to use caliper grease (I like the CRC caliper grease, you can find it at most chain auto parts stores).
Use the grease on the back of the pad plate and if you use shims a light coat between the shim and back plate and a bit heavier coat on the side of the shim that hits the pistons. Also a thin coat on the sides of the backing plates. If you have floating calipers the sliders also should get greased.

If you have pads that require bedding, be sure to follow the companies bed-in procedures.

 

BLNEWT-- thanks for the heads up.

 

after you get everything put back together, start the car and pump the brakes like 10-20 times before you put the car in gear. If you just throw it right into gear you WILL run into something because you have no brakes

 

Good luck getting the rear rotors off. I couldn't get mine removed. There isn't a screw hole to help get them off. I hammered at them a bit with a rubber hammer and no dice.

 

I just ordered some more aggressive pads and better brake fluid. I'm still deciding whether or not I want to order some new rotors or just resurface them. I'm at 20k and will check the thickness later, but I'm pretty sure they can still be turned.

 

You should be fine as far as turning them, as long as you didn't overheat them. At 20k you should have plenty left, especially w/ the conservative OEM pads.

 

Those rears can be a bitch, just make sure the e-brake is backed all the way off and if you need to, use a long 2x4 to hit the back of the rotor from the other side.

 

I'm pretty sure they never overheated but my upcoming track day might do the trick. LOL. It's basically a beginners course so not too hard on the car, but still a track day nonetheless.

 

Cool, sounds like a fun day ahead