I was tracking at Autobahn CC's south config on Saturday and lost my brake pedal after going 10/10ths for 5 laps. Had to pit early because of this. The track support crew took temps of my tires and brakes to see what was up. They noted a caliper temp of 850F. Now, I'm looking for next steps to see what can be done to prevent this.

My current config is:
- Calipers: Akebono
- Pads: Hawk DTC 60 front / DTC 30 rear
- Rotors: Z1 2-piece slotted all around
- Lines: Goodridge braided stainless steel
- Fluid: Motul RBF-600

Brake cooling ducts could be the natural next step, but I wonder if the car is just too much for the brakes. I am supercharged and run a conservative claimed 370 whp map for the track. What do you guys think?

 

What was the before setup? What condition pad rotor and age of fluid?

 

It's been the same setup as I've always used for track days.

The fluid was newly flushed a few days prior. The pads have seen a at least 4 track days prior and still have a lot of meat on them. The rotors have seen 3 track days. Everything is converted back for DD duties.

My DD config is:
- Pads: Nismo semi-metalic
- Rotors: Akebono blanks
- Fluid: Motul 5.1

 

You need a better pad.

 

What pad do you recommend for thermal management?

 

Ebc yellow stuff

 

10/10ths is racing, so you need racing pads.

 

EBC Yellow stuff will disintegrate if you're running those temps on track in these cars

DTC 60/30 is a race pad setup,

I'm not sure how much pad choice contributes to heat management, but you could always go upto a DTC 70/30 setup or an EBC Blue or Orange also Carbotechs 10/8 combo is also popular on these cars.

I run EBC blues but thats a personal preference, the carbotech and DTC 70/30 combos are much more popular on these cars...

Sounds like you boiled the brake fluid..you need to go upto the RBF 660, make sure you bled/flushed out the 5.1 out properly, maybe some was still in the system from your DD setup

Cooling ducts will def help...

what tires were you running? stickier tires should be doing more of the braking work...you may need to go to R comps if you're not already...between this and the fluid I would say the the biggest helpers here

There are also available titanium shims that you can get for the brake pads that may help with cooling too but I'm not sure how much so

Also could try lighter/more open wheels?...you're getting into diminishing returns here...

 

You should look into titanium brake shims.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...rt-brakes.html

 

Spot on with the fluid. I didn't get fade, but lost pedal pressure so I definitely boiled the brake fluid. Cooked off all the high temp silicone on the pad backing plates too.

I use the Motive pressure bleeder using 3 litres of fluid every time. Bleeding the rears use almost 2 litres just to make sure everything is out. We'll see the next time around, but then I'd be using RBF-660 (so expensive).

Going to be looking for ducting placement. It's getting so cramped in the bumper.

The tires are Michelin Pilot Sport 4S 245/40R19 and 275/35R19. I'm thinking stickier and wider tires on lighter 18in wheels. Most likely RE-71R or Cup 2 tires.

Been looking for Ti shims for ages. Can't order from Hard Brakes and they have not been responding to my emails https://hardbrakes.com/index.php?mai...WGQCpBV3MMBmZ1

Great tips guys.

 

Stickier tires may not necessary alleviate your problems.... if you're driving hard enough to overheat the brakes, you're likely also going to be good enough to utilize the extra tire, meaning you're going to carry more speed into corners and subsequently into braking zones. This is only going to tax your brakes even more.

I think brake cooling is going to be your best bet. You've already done the most efficient/basic mods to the brakes and it's unlikely you'll be able to achieve more than that as the others have said, the gains will be marginal. Higher temp pads may also help as they'll heat soak better, and the heat won't get into the fluid as quickly. 18 inch wheels are great for selection and price, but you also run into the issue of the wheels capturing heat more effectively than a 19, as there's simply less room around the rotors to dissipate.

 

need a lighter car.