Does anyone have the Brembo 6 piston front calipers?
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Late to the party, but just wanted to add... the akebonos are aluminum, correct? You could get them actually anodized.
I think the akebonos, like most mass-production calipers, are cast and therefore the edges are not crisp. Compare to wilwoods or some brembos - those are machined, and much more crisp lines on the outside.
I think the akebonos, like most mass-production calipers, are cast and therefore the edges are not crisp. Compare to wilwoods or some brembos - those are machined, and much more crisp lines on the outside.
Anodizing aluminum involves exploiting the surface aluminum oxide coating that bare aluminum forms, thickening it enough to make it protective. It's like hot rust blueing for steel firearms.
You can get stuff colored because you can trap dye particles in the anodize bath.
Quick Turn Anodizing - HardCoat Anodizing and Black Oxide (quick google)
and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodiz...considerations
I've had aluminum firearm parts that were anodized and subjected to very very high heat (muzzle brakes, for instance) that had no discoloration. But they were anodized hardcoat black.
On our race calipers, we used exhaust paint from POR-15. It fades some over time, but never melted or otherwise had issues after it was cured. Some folks used Jet-Hot ceramic coating, but had to ream the piston bores after getting the calipers back from the company.
You can get stuff colored because you can trap dye particles in the anodize bath.
Quick Turn Anodizing - HardCoat Anodizing and Black Oxide (quick google)
and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodiz...considerations
I've had aluminum firearm parts that were anodized and subjected to very very high heat (muzzle brakes, for instance) that had no discoloration. But they were anodized hardcoat black.
On our race calipers, we used exhaust paint from POR-15. It fades some over time, but never melted or otherwise had issues after it was cured. Some folks used Jet-Hot ceramic coating, but had to ream the piston bores after getting the calipers back from the company.
Note that Yellow Speed Racing offers anodized finishes.
http://yellowspeedracingusa.com/coll...big-brake-kits
6-piston replacement calipers, too, it seems.
http://yellowspeedracingusa.com/coll...big-brake-kits
6-piston replacement calipers, too, it seems.
Also - are you able to lock the brakes (with ABS off) while braking hard on track? If so, you have enough caliper. If you have not enough bite or fade over a track session, that is a compound issue. With heavy cars like ours I'd think Hawk DTC-50 would be better than any commonly available street-ish pads. That's assuming you're racing at improved-touring performance levels. If we're talking HPDEs, then somewhere between that and Blacks.
I've not tracked my G37, so YMMV. But with my track-only RX7s, we used Blues all around. That is with the bigger 4-piston Mazda calipers in front from the Turbo cars. With my daily driver RX8, I used HP+ and it was fine, but without cage, race seat and race harness I wasn't driving 10/10. My buddies in Miatae used Porterfields with good effect. All on stock calipers and good rotors like DBA. We used ATE super / superblue in rotation, Motul RBF, or Ford Heavy Duty DOT4, and some sort of stainless braided lines. My RX8 had commercially available lines, the RX7s we used AN hardware and hose.
Having said that, the bigger calipers are verrra sexy. But $1000 sexy? I'm not so sure.
I've not tracked my G37, so YMMV. But with my track-only RX7s, we used Blues all around. That is with the bigger 4-piston Mazda calipers in front from the Turbo cars. With my daily driver RX8, I used HP+ and it was fine, but without cage, race seat and race harness I wasn't driving 10/10. My buddies in Miatae used Porterfields with good effect. All on stock calipers and good rotors like DBA. We used ATE super / superblue in rotation, Motul RBF, or Ford Heavy Duty DOT4, and some sort of stainless braided lines. My RX8 had commercially available lines, the RX7s we used AN hardware and hose.
Having said that, the bigger calipers are verrra sexy. But $1000 sexy? I'm not so sure.
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Anodizing aluminum involves exploiting the surface aluminum oxide coating that bare aluminum forms, thickening it enough to make it protective. It's like hot rust blueing for steel firearms.
You can get stuff colored because you can trap dye particles in the anodize bath.
Quick Turn Anodizing - HardCoat Anodizing and Black Oxide (quick google)
and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodiz...considerations
I've had aluminum firearm parts that were anodized and subjected to very very high heat (muzzle brakes, for instance) that had no discoloration. But they were anodized hardcoat black.
On our race calipers, we used exhaust paint from POR-15. It fades some over time, but never melted or otherwise had issues after it was cured. Some folks used Jet-Hot ceramic coating, but had to ream the piston bores after getting the calipers back from the company.
You can get stuff colored because you can trap dye particles in the anodize bath.
Quick Turn Anodizing - HardCoat Anodizing and Black Oxide (quick google)
and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodiz...considerations
I've had aluminum firearm parts that were anodized and subjected to very very high heat (muzzle brakes, for instance) that had no discoloration. But they were anodized hardcoat black.
On our race calipers, we used exhaust paint from POR-15. It fades some over time, but never melted or otherwise had issues after it was cured. Some folks used Jet-Hot ceramic coating, but had to ream the piston bores after getting the calipers back from the company.
Note that Yellow Speed Racing offers anodized finishes.
http://yellowspeedracingusa.com/coll...big-brake-kits
6-piston replacement calipers, too, it seems.

http://yellowspeedracingusa.com/coll...big-brake-kits
6-piston replacement calipers, too, it seems.

Also - are you able to lock the brakes (with ABS off) while braking hard on track? If so, you have enough caliper. If you have not enough bite or fade over a track session, that is a compound issue. With heavy cars like ours I'd think Hawk DTC-50 would be better than any commonly available street-ish pads. That's assuming you're racing at improved-touring performance levels. If we're talking HPDEs, then somewhere between that and Blacks.
I've not tracked my G37, so YMMV. But with my track-only RX7s, we used Blues all around. That is with the bigger 4-piston Mazda calipers in front from the Turbo cars. With my daily driver RX8, I used HP+ and it was fine, but without cage, race seat and race harness I wasn't driving 10/10. My buddies in Miatae used Porterfields with good effect. All on stock calipers and good rotors like DBA. We used ATE super / superblue in rotation, Motul RBF, or Ford Heavy Duty DOT4, and some sort of stainless braided lines. My RX8 had commercially available lines, the RX7s we used AN hardware and hose.
Having said that, the bigger calipers are verrra sexy. But $1000 sexy? I'm not so sure.
I've not tracked my G37, so YMMV. But with my track-only RX7s, we used Blues all around. That is with the bigger 4-piston Mazda calipers in front from the Turbo cars. With my daily driver RX8, I used HP+ and it was fine, but without cage, race seat and race harness I wasn't driving 10/10. My buddies in Miatae used Porterfields with good effect. All on stock calipers and good rotors like DBA. We used ATE super / superblue in rotation, Motul RBF, or Ford Heavy Duty DOT4, and some sort of stainless braided lines. My RX8 had commercially available lines, the RX7s we used AN hardware and hose.
Having said that, the bigger calipers are verrra sexy. But $1000 sexy? I'm not so sure.

First I'd heard of Yellow Speed Racing, too. Let us know what your research pans out. The forum here is all about Akebono, with occasional Brembo parts, and even Wilwood. But Yellow Speed Racing... that would be cool.
Last edited by Rochester; Feb 2, 2019 at 05:14 PM.
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How did you stumble upon this company?
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I just called Yellow Speed Racing and the guy said they have been around since 2004 and their brakes are forged and on a lot of drift and rally cars. He said their calipers are designed just for their rotors and they have a 356x32 size which is damn close to our 355x32 front rotors. He did not recommend doing this with just calipers, but I would have to find the hub offset of their rotors to see if it would match up. He said the founder of the company would be back next week and he would know for sure. The crazy thing is that they offer basically the same sized rotors for front as rear so you could literally run 15" 6 piston calipers front and rear. That would be insane!
Random google images searching for anodized calipers.Designed solely for their rotors? That's an odd business decision. If they made a 6-pot specifically targeted as an upgrade for the Nissan/Akebono BBK, there's a two decade market of Z/G cars to sell to.
Good luck with your research, OP. Seems like there are possibilities here worth spending time on.
Last edited by Rochester; Feb 2, 2019 at 05:17 PM.
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That's exactly what I thought, but they probably realized they could make more money off of a full bbk compared to just calipers.
A standard B2B practice is to lock you in to one brand forcing you use that brand for repairs and upgrades. Different brands offer similar but not same products so while it's less expensive to cherry pick across an industry, it's difficult as salespeople won't offer help if they know you're doing that. Yellow Speed Racing is following that practice.
I was running DTC-60's on my car and I think it was about 2 years ago that the ABS sensors mounted on the rear differential melted and I flat spotted a front tire because my brakes locked up. Now I run Carbotech XP pads (I believe 10's and 11's) and I like them a lot better. The bite is a lot more progressive and the wear is much better on the pads and rotors. I also run brake ducts & Z1 2pc. rotors up front as well as Motul RBF600 fluid and Z1 stainless braided lines all around.

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My middle name is "hardcore."
At the time the melted ABS sensors caused the ABS light to come on so I figured I lost my ABS, but I was not sure as I had driven a few laps without locking the brakes by making sure that I was very smooth modulating the brakes. When I flat spotted the tire I had a friend in a GT-R finally catch me and I went a touch too deep into the corner. I heard the tire lock up and I actually thought it was him until I saw a puff of smoke and let up on the brakes instantly, but it was too late. Lesson learned.
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I spoke to Donald at Yellow Speed Racing about their calipers today. He also was not sure if their 6 piston calipers would fit our stock rotors. However 14" converted to mm is 355.6 and their rotors are 356mm. I bet they would work just fine if the hub spacing is the same. He said they are working on "compact" calipers to help with wheel clearance. He claims that their calipers are billet aluminum (instead of forged like I was told earlier). He also said all of their parts are made in Taiwan which I think is strange since they have USA all over their web page. Donald said once their corporate office opens on the 10th he will get some templates and more information for me so I can check fitment.
The fact that their answers seems to change and no one seems to know if their calipers work with stock rotors makes me a bit skeptical. The fact that I have never heard of this company before also makes me wonder. I am trying to keep an open mind, but they are not making it easy.
The fact that their answers seems to change and no one seems to know if their calipers work with stock rotors makes me a bit skeptical. The fact that I have never heard of this company before also makes me wonder. I am trying to keep an open mind, but they are not making it easy.









