Brakes & Suspension Reviews on brakes & suspension for G vehicles.

Review Z1 2-Piece rotors, braided lines and Nismo pads

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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 07:19 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Hashim
20lbs unsprung >20lbs sprung so its actually an even better value
To further put it into perspective, it's 20lbs of rotational unsprung weight, right at the very corners of the car. It's worth a great deal more than just stripping the car.

And if you track at all, it reduces heat soak into the hubs due to the floating design, resulting in wheel bearings that last longer. It was one of the primary considerations I had when buying the rotors over anything else.
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 12:09 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by VenomGT9
$430 for 20lbs is fairly cheap in comparison to switching wheels or seats
good set up OP
Yes!! Lawd●♤♡
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 12:22 AM
  #18  
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Well it was $430 more, if the price I saw was for a pair of rotors. I probably should have bought more brake fluid, but I ended up ordering ATE Typ 200 with a dry pt of 536 and wet point of 375 f, that should be sufficient. I got the Akebono ASP Pads, I don't know what is the bed in process. I plan on changing the diff fluid too. I wish the factory stuff was made more like the audi r8s their rotors are 20lbs, they took a lot of metal out of the non-essential parts. I found Audi rotors for 275 each, but they won't fit.

$64 Each Hawk Rotors
$65 or so Akebono ASP1346
$17 1L Ake Typ 200
$20 2L Mobil 1 LS Diff Fluid

Being Able to stop...priceless.

I will probably need new front tires by end of year. Perhaps another pair of Hankook S1 Nobile 2 they're alright.




Would love to have these



Should be fine, should get rid of the vibration
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 07:42 AM
  #19  
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Audi rotors aren't all that. Take the ones you have pictured. They LOOK like 2-piece rotors but they're actually 1-piece. Lots of complaints from owners and many end up swapping in aftermarket rotors for improved wear/braking performance.
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 10:38 AM
  #20  
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Obviously they aren't 2 piece, but they are around 275 a rotor which isn't bad, when you get the weight savings. The brake rings are less than buying a full two-piece. I can't imagine a true 2 piece being less than 275 each on a R8. I wish they had done something like Audi or BMW M when it came to the rotors on the G37s.

A good part of me wishes that I had gotten the 2 piece. 20 lbs is pretty significant at the wheel. They are around $550 delivered to me. If they had been around 100 more a corner rather than 200, I probably would have done it. My Akebono's didn't come with any parts, just the pads. I hope that the old shims and pins will be fine.

Last edited by ezbme; Apr 16, 2017 at 02:21 PM.
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Old Jul 20, 2017 | 09:22 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ezbme
Obviously they aren't 2 piece, but they are around 275 a rotor which isn't bad, when you get the weight savings. The brake rings are less than buying a full two-piece. I can't imagine a true 2 piece being less than 275 each on a R8. I wish they had done something like Audi or BMW M when it came to the rotors on the G37s.

A good part of me wishes that I had gotten the 2 piece. 20 lbs is pretty significant at the wheel. They are around $550 delivered to me. If they had been around 100 more a corner rather than 200, I probably would have done it. My Akebono's didn't come with any parts, just the pads. I hope that the old shims and pins will be fine.
Rear R8 rotors are 20lbs, but the fronts are about 25lbs. Looks like the carbon ceramics save some serious weight.

Carbon Ceramic Brake Conversion weight loss
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Old Sep 2, 2017 | 05:23 AM
  #22  
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I did this whole exact same setup and the brake brace. Big difference but more dust is the problem.
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Old Sep 2, 2017 | 09:45 AM
  #23  
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I've gotten used to the dust and they don't seem to dust as much as they first did for some reason. Everything good in your neck of the woods FPVJAY? Had a friend come up from Houston last night. He has no idea if all his co-workers are safe, can't get into work, etc...
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Old Sep 2, 2017 | 11:49 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Ape Factory
I've gotten used to the dust and they don't seem to dust as much as they first did for some reason. Everything good in your neck of the woods FPVJAY? Had a friend come up from Houston last night. He has no idea if all his co-workers are safe, can't get into work, etc...
Yes thank god. I'm in the Bellaire area and it didnt flood here at all. I guess I'm part of the 10-15% that didn't flood. I was blessed this time. I did take special precautions and put the wife's Mercedes and my G in a 3 level parking garage.
I could have left the cars on the ground and they would have been fine. Who would have known though?

The only thing I'm complaining about is my mail!!! Where the hell is my hebi bebi tommy kaira shift ****? Thanks Harvey you assho*le! Now we have to pray Irma doesn't screw us up or screw up Florida.

Anyways back on topic.
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Old Dec 11, 2019 | 08:02 PM
  #25  
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Ape, just found this thread. I know you bounce back into the forum from time to time, so if you catch this...

Hey, Ape. Hope all is well, and I miss watching your build here.

I've got a full set of Z1 two-piece rotors waiting for Spring. In the meantime, I'm looking around at pads, waffling between OEM and Nismo and Hawk. When you say "softer... with more modulation", are you saying you interact more with the brakes, and it's a better driving experience?

And reading your OP, it occurs to me SS brake lines can be sliced out of the project into its own upgrade mod down the road. And I've read enough about the MC brace to not really want it. But the pads... IDK yet. Do you have any more advice there? It's a low-miles, 100% street car, but it's pretty tight and has a fair amount of grunt.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...rt-brakes.html
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Old Dec 11, 2019 | 08:30 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Ape, just found this thread. I know you bounce back into the forum from time to time, so if you catch this...

Hey, Ape. Hope all is well, and I miss watching your build here.

I've got a full set of Z1 two-piece rotors waiting for Spring. In the meantime, I'm looking around at pads, waffling between OEM and Nismo and Hawk. When you say "softer... with more modulation", are you saying you interact more with the brakes, and it's a better driving experience?

And reading your OP, it occurs to me SS brake lines can be sliced out of the project into its own upgrade mod down the road. And I've read enough about the MC brace to not really want it. But the pads... IDK yet. Do you have any more advice there? It's a low-miles, 100% street car, but it's pretty tight and has a fair amount of grunt.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...rt-brakes.html
Check our the Carbotech 1521. You’ll like them and if you decide to go with a more aggressive pad their track stuff is compatible and no need to re-bed the brakes.

the Nismo pads, from what I can remember, didn’t have killer initial bite but you could really modulate the brakes with pedal pressure. Was very intuitive.
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Old Dec 12, 2019 | 08:11 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Ape Factory
Check our the Carbotech 1521. You’ll like them and if you decide to go with a more aggressive pad their track stuff is compatible and no need to re-bed the brakes.

the Nismo pads, from what I can remember, didn’t have killer initial bite but you could really modulate the brakes with pedal pressure. Was very intuitive.
Researching now. Thanks!

$300 for a full set.. certainly a premium 2X price, but not crazy.
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Old Dec 15, 2019 | 02:37 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Researching now. Thanks!

$300 for a full set.. certainly a premium 2X price, but not crazy.
Just be glad you are not getting race pads for a much less common set of calipers. When I was getting race pads for my JDM WRX 4/2 pot calipers they were about $350 just for the front?!? And that was a much smaller brake pad than what we have with the Akebonos.
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Old Jan 23, 2022 | 09:48 PM
  #29  
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How did you get the noise down on the NISMO pads?

Im beginning to think I made a mistake switching from Centric to NISMO R TUNE.
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