Snappingturtle

I'm looking to get a RWD G37/G37S rear sway on my car. I'm located in the NY/NJ area. Is there any shops that you guys recommend to do it at?

canucklehead

iTrader: (9)

just FYI - the sway bar installation is extremely easy to do yourself. i'm sure there is a thread in the DIY section somewhere. the front was easier than the rear, but even the rear was a 30 minute swap. i had to drop a muffler hanger for access but that was dead simple. no special tools required other than a torque wrench - which every guy should have anyways.

Snappingturtle

Does the car have to be lifted from the jack points or from the tires? Is the torque wrench only for the unbolting of the existing rear sway and bolting of the new rear sway bar? Will I have to unbolt the exhaust? If I can find a shop that can do it for $50-60 then I don't mind also.

HoldmyMouse

Read up on this https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...r-install.html

It's quite simple. Only need a pair of ramps and basic hand tools. For that price you might want to try to solicit members for help

canucklehead

iTrader: (9)

if memory serves i just jacked it up using the rear diff housing and a front subframe cross member - one at a time though, not all at once. this unloads the suspension to re+re the bars.

the torque wrench is NOT for unbolting anything. it is used to torque the sway bar bolts back to factory specs (available in the DIY thread). just regular sockets and wrenches used for re+re of the bolts. i also used some thread lock to prevent the bolts from backing off. 2 years later and the bolts are still at the correct torque.

i did have to lower just the rear muffler portion of the exhaust, just one hanger on either side. very simple.

the nice thing about DIY is then it is much quicker to adjust the sway bar setting in the future. if you have someone else install them you will be at a disadvantage if you wanted to change the stiffness of the aftermarket sway bars. just a thought...

G37Xtreme

I've read conflicting information on this. Some say that it's hard to remove the end link bolts on an unloaded suspension. The DIY doesn't get into this at all, and is written based on ramps. My Hotchkis are due in this week, and I plan to install them this weekend, so I am wrapping up any loose ends that I can before I go in for automotive surgery.

I have a thread about my install in the Sedan forum. If you look at my exhaust mid-pipes, you will see how bad they are at the large junction after the Y-pipes. I was going to remove it there, but now I don't think that's a good idea. Do you think I'll be able to manipulate the sway bar by just undoing the mufflers?

canucklehead

iTrader: (9)

^ on further reflection i know 100% that i did not use ramps, jack points only. i do not own ramps. i had no problem with the install using a jack.

all i did was lower the rear section of the exhaust to get enough room to work with. i didn't remove anything, just loosened. you'll see once you get going on the install. if you need to lower a bit more, just loosen off another hanger, no big deal.

G37Xtreme

Ah, so you didn't break the "seal" on your exhaust at all? Just removed a hanger bracket to two?

stockae92

$50-60 is great price. I was quoted $120 for both front and back

Snappingturtle

If I manage to find a place that is willing at that price. I just want to do the rear. You wouldn't happen to know of a place in NY would you?

G37Xtreme

What are your capabilities? I put my sways on this weekend, and it took me longer than expected due to an issue getting my muffler back on. Everything else was simple. I had some tools that made it easier (impact wrench) but I could have done it with hand tools.

I had a shop quote me close to $200 to install my sways. I bought a sweet impact wrench with that money plus some impact sockets instead.

My goal is to install all of my mods if possible. High flow cats, catback exhaust, cold air intake, coil overs...blah blah blah. If it bolts on, and doesn't require special tooling, or rebuilding a transmission or engine...I'm going to try it myself. I am however limited to 2 days of downtime (weekends only).

Snappingturtle

I was checking part numbers of infiniti parts websites and I have come to a conclusion that the RWD G37 base model sedan and G37S sedan use the rear sway bars. The G37S coupe and IPL G Coupe also use the same rear sway bars. Is there a huge difference between the G37S sways and base model sedan rear sways? I of course would like the best that I can get without going aftermarket - ie hotchkis, eibach, etc.

Part numbers
RWD Sedan (Journey/Sport): 56230-1EA0C
RWD Sport/IPL Coupe: 56230-JL01B
Journey Coupe: 56230-1BA1B

Is this right or is there a hidden part number for the sedan sport rear sway bar?

also, will all coupe rear sways fit on sedan?

G37Xtreme

Does anyone know if snappingturtle will have oversteer if he upgraded only the rear sways?
Infiniti must have put a smaller rear bar on there for a reason on the awd.

Snappingturtle

I think after upgrading the rear sway, it would have oversteer. Your hotchkis setup should be the same if not more oversteer. If you have the g37x, the hotchkis sway compared to the oem front sway has a slightly larger diameter. The rear hotchkis compared to the oem rear sway has a significantly larger diameter. I wanted to do rear sway only to keep it "oem" and price-wise should be much lower.

G37Xtreme

I don't think I have oversteer. Oversteer is from an imbalance between front and rear stiffness. If the rear is stiffer than the front, you have oversteer.

With my Hotchkis, the front are not only upgraded, but also on the stiffest setting. The rear, while upgraded, are on the middle setting.

If my research is correct, if I put my rear on the stiffest setting, it should be relatively neutral...and while the rear is at the stiffest, if I move my front to the weakest position, I'll have oversteer.

Not 100% on this though, so I was hoping someone else would chime in and clear things up for you.

I don't know why Infiniti went with really small sway bars on the rear. It may be that being AWD, there is already a better chance of oversteer (if the front wheels kick in), so they had to keep the rear weaker than the RWD models. I can't really justify why they would do this, unless they thought it was best.

So you're changing the balance by only making the rear stiffer. What I did was make both stiffer, so the balance was (hopefully) preserved.

At least, I think that's what I did Again, anyone who really knows this stuff, please feel free to comment

EDIT:

On second thought...perhaps keeping the OEM front and switching to RWD rear sways will make your steering neutral instead of oversteer.