Camber kit needed for Swift or Eibach springs?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 97
Likes: 11
It's a balancing act, right now you're sacrificing camber to keep your toe OK, with the new arms you'll get your camber anywhere you want it but toe is still only adjustable to a small range. Can't argue w/ wanting the beefiest parts for your suspension. You could get the SPLs and hopefully you can get both camber and toe in range, and if not the bolt set alone is only about $40, but yes, it does involve some cutting 
That makes sense. I would be ok with getting the SPC kit if the quality is good.
I basically need 2 of these right?
I'm just very reluctant to use cheap suspension parts on my car. I'd never want something like this to happen: Ichiba rear camber arms almost killed me - G35Driver
I've heard that the Ichiba camber arms are complete trash, I hope the SPCs are much better made.
I also made a slight error in the camber numbers I gave in the previous post. My actual camber numbers are as follows:
Front -1.25 -1.30
Rear -2.24 -2.30
As mentioned the toe is zero in the front and very close to zero in the near (just a hair of toe in).
How bad are these numbers? I'm thinking the front is just fine but the rear seems excessive. Are there are safety issues with driving the car with these numbers until I get the rear camber fixed?
My understanding is that the main problems with the current setup are excessive inner tire wear from the significant negative camber in the rear, less straight line grip in the rear and more understeer at the limit of traction since the front will have less grip in the turns. Anything else?
Thanks for your help blnewt.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 97
Likes: 11
Eibach prokit installed with 20X9 up front and 20X10.5 rear. No camber kits of any kind. front camber is -1.5 left side and -1.6 on right side. OEM max is -1.2 so slightly out up front. Front toe is within OEM range It does make a difference on tire wear but I'm using hankooks and I only drive about 5k miles a year so I'll just throw some $100/side rubber on the front when needed. Original Bridgestones only lasted me like 18k miles anyway. Rear camber is -1.5 on both sides and toe is well within spec on the rear as well. Money not being an object I would get the front fixed, but my wife gets pissed when I spend money on the car, ha ha. Oh, it's a 2010 Journey coupe by the way.
At least from the research I've done, those numbers should be pretty good. More grip in the turns and probably not much more tire wear than normal as long as toe is good. I wish my rear camber was -1.5 without any camber kit haha.
Given your modest negative camber and low amount of driving, I doubt the money you spend on a camber kit and alignment would be made up in tire money anytime soon.
Halfshaft, here's the SPC application sheet, might check w/ TH Motorsports for the kits (they're an on site vendor), they should be about that price but w/ free shipping
Specialty Products Company | SPC Alignment | The Automotive Alignment Leaders
Specialty Products Company | SPC Alignment | The Automotive Alignment Leaders
Registered Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 172
Likes: 13
anyone with any doubt on lowering their car and getting an alignment,...had my 2012 g37xs aligned today heres a few pics plus specs lowered on eibach pro kit plus 20mm spacers plus front and rear camber kits everything plus alignment was $1174.00 and my uncle installed the parts so that's without labor....ride is just like oem the only difference is it takes the bumps a little harsher...I had them align it for maximum tire life it handles good already so I didn't want any negative camber...hope this helps...
Attachment 143420
Attachment 143421
Attachment 143422
Attachment 143423
Attachment 143420
Attachment 143421
Attachment 143422
Attachment 143423
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
stpncaV37
Brakes & Suspension
4
Aug 10, 2015 08:05 PM