good question: Toe vs Camber relationship

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Old 02-16-2014, 02:42 PM
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JC-RH
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good question: Toe vs Camber relationship

From my research, camber adjustments and toe adjustment are inversely affected. I'm currently dropped about 2" in the rear on stock suspension arms/bolts. Due to my wheel offset choice, my alignment shop currently maxed out my rear arms to about -2.7 for better clearance with the fender. My toe is set perfectly to 0. However, my rear wheel doesn't fully clear the fender when fully compressed, and I'm afraid it'll actually hit the fender on a very big dip/bump on the road.

I have ordered the SPC rear kit (arms/bolts). I'm confident that I can install the arms myself, but I know the toe bolts are going to be a bit of a pain. All I need is an ADDITIONAL 0.5-1.0 degree of negative camber with the SPC arms. Since my toe is currently at 0, will the change in additional camber allow me to dial toe back to 0 WITH STOCK CAMBER BOLT?

I understand that the majority of people try to get everything back in spec. Going from -3 to -1.2 is a big difference, and usually they can't get back to zero out toe. That's not my situation.

Please don't tell me to raise my car, switch wheels, or that my tires are going to wear in 5000 miles. All I'm asking is outlined in the second paragraph.

Thanks guys!!
Old 02-16-2014, 03:22 PM
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blnewt
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Originally Posted by JC-RH
From my research, camber adjustments and toe adjustment are inversely affected. I'm currently dropped about 2" in the rear on stock suspension arms/bolts. Due to my wheel offset choice, my alignment shop currently maxed out my rear arms to about -2.7 for better clearance with the fender. My toe is set perfectly to 0. However, my rear wheel doesn't fully clear the fender when fully compressed, and I'm afraid it'll actually hit the fender on a very big dip/bump on the road.

I have ordered the SPC rear kit (arms/bolts). I'm confident that I can install the arms myself, but I know the toe bolts are going to be a bit of a pain. All I need is an ADDITIONAL 0.5-1.0 degree of negative camber with the SPC arms. Since my toe is currently at 0, will the change in additional camber allow me to dial toe back to 0 WITH STOCK CAMBER BOLT?

I understand that the majority of people try to get everything back in spec. Going from -3 to -1.2 is a big difference, and usually they can't get back to zero out toe. That's not my situation.

Please don't tell me to raise my car, switch wheels, or that my tires are going to wear in 5000 miles. All I'm asking is outlined in the second paragraph.

Thanks guys!!
2" rear drop is pretty deep w/out using the toe kit, Since you already have the arms and toe bolts I'd install both, the toe bolt install isn't too bad, I used a dremel thin cutoff wafer to get the slot wider, it took about 45 minutes to do the pair of slots on each side. If you've got an alignment guy that won't charge you much to try just the arms, then align again if you must use the bolts that may be an option, even though you may think it'll be OK at -2.2 unless you really want to run that much camber being in spec will be better in the long term, IMO.
Old 02-16-2014, 04:23 PM
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JC-RH
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That's not really answering my question. Let me clarify a bit more.

Most people drop their cars. This leads to natural negative camber. It's when the try to add positive camber (straighten wheel) that they run into issue with toe. In my case, I'm ok with the natural camber but I want to add an addition -0.5 or -1.0. I have a feeling that because I'm going even further with negative camber that I won't have to bother with the toe bolts.

Does anyone have experience with this same scenario? I've had a lot of free time at work over the weekend, so I've been reading a lot of articles about DIY alignments. My car is pretty low, so I might give it a shot to avoid the ramp. Saves a lot time and money...and I don't trust the techs.
Old 02-16-2014, 06:24 PM
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blnewt
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Originally Posted by JC-RH
That's not really answering my question. Let me clarify a bit more.

Most people drop their cars. This leads to natural negative camber. It's when the try to add positive camber (straighten wheel) that they run into issue with toe. In my case, I'm ok with the natural camber but I want to add an addition -0.5 or -1.0. I have a feeling that because I'm going even further with negative camber that I won't have to bother with the toe bolts.

Does anyone have experience with this same scenario? I've had a lot of free time at work over the weekend, so I've been reading a lot of articles about DIY alignments. My car is pretty low, so I might give it a shot to avoid the ramp. Saves a lot time and money...and I don't trust the techs.
Sry, I thought you were wanting to go less negative by .5, wanting to add an additional .5 should be possible w/ the arms while being able to control the toe w/ it's OEM slot. I've read of a few Gs that have done what you're wanting w/ just the arms, this was done to keep the tires inside the fender edges which sounds like your situation.
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