good question: Toe vs Camber relationship
#1
good question: Toe vs Camber relationship
From my research, camber adjustments and toe adjustment are inversely affected. I'm currently dropped about 2" in the rear on stock suspension arms/bolts. Due to my wheel offset choice, my alignment shop currently maxed out my rear arms to about -2.7 for better clearance with the fender. My toe is set perfectly to 0. However, my rear wheel doesn't fully clear the fender when fully compressed, and I'm afraid it'll actually hit the fender on a very big dip/bump on the road.
I have ordered the SPC rear kit (arms/bolts). I'm confident that I can install the arms myself, but I know the toe bolts are going to be a bit of a pain. All I need is an ADDITIONAL 0.5-1.0 degree of negative camber with the SPC arms. Since my toe is currently at 0, will the change in additional camber allow me to dial toe back to 0 WITH STOCK CAMBER BOLT?
I understand that the majority of people try to get everything back in spec. Going from -3 to -1.2 is a big difference, and usually they can't get back to zero out toe. That's not my situation.
Please don't tell me to raise my car, switch wheels, or that my tires are going to wear in 5000 miles. All I'm asking is outlined in the second paragraph.
Thanks guys!!
I have ordered the SPC rear kit (arms/bolts). I'm confident that I can install the arms myself, but I know the toe bolts are going to be a bit of a pain. All I need is an ADDITIONAL 0.5-1.0 degree of negative camber with the SPC arms. Since my toe is currently at 0, will the change in additional camber allow me to dial toe back to 0 WITH STOCK CAMBER BOLT?
I understand that the majority of people try to get everything back in spec. Going from -3 to -1.2 is a big difference, and usually they can't get back to zero out toe. That's not my situation.
Please don't tell me to raise my car, switch wheels, or that my tires are going to wear in 5000 miles. All I'm asking is outlined in the second paragraph.
Thanks guys!!
#2
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
From my research, camber adjustments and toe adjustment are inversely affected. I'm currently dropped about 2" in the rear on stock suspension arms/bolts. Due to my wheel offset choice, my alignment shop currently maxed out my rear arms to about -2.7 for better clearance with the fender. My toe is set perfectly to 0. However, my rear wheel doesn't fully clear the fender when fully compressed, and I'm afraid it'll actually hit the fender on a very big dip/bump on the road.
I have ordered the SPC rear kit (arms/bolts). I'm confident that I can install the arms myself, but I know the toe bolts are going to be a bit of a pain. All I need is an ADDITIONAL 0.5-1.0 degree of negative camber with the SPC arms. Since my toe is currently at 0, will the change in additional camber allow me to dial toe back to 0 WITH STOCK CAMBER BOLT?
I understand that the majority of people try to get everything back in spec. Going from -3 to -1.2 is a big difference, and usually they can't get back to zero out toe. That's not my situation.
Please don't tell me to raise my car, switch wheels, or that my tires are going to wear in 5000 miles. All I'm asking is outlined in the second paragraph.
Thanks guys!!
I have ordered the SPC rear kit (arms/bolts). I'm confident that I can install the arms myself, but I know the toe bolts are going to be a bit of a pain. All I need is an ADDITIONAL 0.5-1.0 degree of negative camber with the SPC arms. Since my toe is currently at 0, will the change in additional camber allow me to dial toe back to 0 WITH STOCK CAMBER BOLT?
I understand that the majority of people try to get everything back in spec. Going from -3 to -1.2 is a big difference, and usually they can't get back to zero out toe. That's not my situation.
Please don't tell me to raise my car, switch wheels, or that my tires are going to wear in 5000 miles. All I'm asking is outlined in the second paragraph.
Thanks guys!!
#3
That's not really answering my question. Let me clarify a bit more.
Most people drop their cars. This leads to natural negative camber. It's when the try to add positive camber (straighten wheel) that they run into issue with toe. In my case, I'm ok with the natural camber but I want to add an addition -0.5 or -1.0. I have a feeling that because I'm going even further with negative camber that I won't have to bother with the toe bolts.
Does anyone have experience with this same scenario? I've had a lot of free time at work over the weekend, so I've been reading a lot of articles about DIY alignments. My car is pretty low, so I might give it a shot to avoid the ramp. Saves a lot time and money...and I don't trust the techs.
Most people drop their cars. This leads to natural negative camber. It's when the try to add positive camber (straighten wheel) that they run into issue with toe. In my case, I'm ok with the natural camber but I want to add an addition -0.5 or -1.0. I have a feeling that because I'm going even further with negative camber that I won't have to bother with the toe bolts.
Does anyone have experience with this same scenario? I've had a lot of free time at work over the weekend, so I've been reading a lot of articles about DIY alignments. My car is pretty low, so I might give it a shot to avoid the ramp. Saves a lot time and money...and I don't trust the techs.
#4
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
That's not really answering my question. Let me clarify a bit more.
Most people drop their cars. This leads to natural negative camber. It's when the try to add positive camber (straighten wheel) that they run into issue with toe. In my case, I'm ok with the natural camber but I want to add an addition -0.5 or -1.0. I have a feeling that because I'm going even further with negative camber that I won't have to bother with the toe bolts.
Does anyone have experience with this same scenario? I've had a lot of free time at work over the weekend, so I've been reading a lot of articles about DIY alignments. My car is pretty low, so I might give it a shot to avoid the ramp. Saves a lot time and money...and I don't trust the techs.
Most people drop their cars. This leads to natural negative camber. It's when the try to add positive camber (straighten wheel) that they run into issue with toe. In my case, I'm ok with the natural camber but I want to add an addition -0.5 or -1.0. I have a feeling that because I'm going even further with negative camber that I won't have to bother with the toe bolts.
Does anyone have experience with this same scenario? I've had a lot of free time at work over the weekend, so I've been reading a lot of articles about DIY alignments. My car is pretty low, so I might give it a shot to avoid the ramp. Saves a lot time and money...and I don't trust the techs.
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