Project MU - NS400 Bed-in process?
05-17-2013, 10:58 AM
#1
Project MU - NS400 Bed-in process?
Anyone here have these brake pads? I need to know what the bed-in process is for these particular brake pads?
Yes these are different apparently for bed-in than normal procedure since there website claims they are pre-baked.
Also I searched Google and here and couldn't find the right answer.
No they didn't come on the box or in them.
I don't want to f**k-up $1,000 dollars worth of new brakes.
Yes these are different apparently for bed-in than normal procedure since there website claims they are pre-baked.
Also I searched Google and here and couldn't find the right answer.
No they didn't come on the box or in them.
I don't want to f**k-up $1,000 dollars worth of new brakes.
05-18-2013, 04:09 PM
#2
Answer:
Bedding at the track:
1. Make sure the pads are installed correctly and check the pedal is firm before driving the car.
2. Use light braking for 2 laps using about half normal pedal pressure. Apply the brake twice as much as you normally would. I.e. Apply the brakes once ‘between’ corners. You are now making sure the pad is in good contact with the rotor face.
3. Gradually increase speed and braking pressure for another 2 laps to progressively build up temperature
in the Discs & Pads until you are at 80 - 90% race
pace.
4. Cool the brakes by driving the vehicle for another lap with minimal brake use and then return to the pits.
Allow the brakes to cool to ambient. The pads should now be ready to race.
Bedding away from the track:
1. Make sure the pads are installed correctly and check the pedal is firm before driving the car.
2. Drive somewhere with no traffic.
3. Do around 15-20 light brake applications from 80kph(50MPH) to 10kph(5MPH). Do not come to a complete stop.
4. Drive for approx 5 minutes with minimal brake use to allow them to cool slightly.
5. Do another 15-20 brake applications, this time from 100kph(60MPH) to 10kph(5MPH). Do not come to a complete stop.
6. Drive for at least 15 minutes with minimal brake use to allow the brakes to cool.
7. Park the car and allow the brakes to cool to ambient.
8. The pads should now be ready for use.
Notes:Always carry out a visual inspection of the brakes after they have cooled. Make sure the rotor face is in contact with the pads and no signs of glazing are present. If unsure of bedding result, re-do them.
================================================== ====
ABOVE IS FROM PROJECT MU - Edited ( 5/20/23 )
================================================== ====
1. Make sure the pads are installed correctly and check the pedal is firm before driving the car.
2. Use light braking for 2 laps using about half normal pedal pressure. Apply the brake twice as much as you normally would. I.e. Apply the brakes once ‘between’ corners. You are now making sure the pad is in good contact with the rotor face.
3. Gradually increase speed and braking pressure for another 2 laps to progressively build up temperature
in the Discs & Pads until you are at 80 - 90% race
pace.
4. Cool the brakes by driving the vehicle for another lap with minimal brake use and then return to the pits.
Allow the brakes to cool to ambient. The pads should now be ready to race.
Bedding away from the track:
1. Make sure the pads are installed correctly and check the pedal is firm before driving the car.
2. Drive somewhere with no traffic.
3. Do around 15-20 light brake applications from 80kph(50MPH) to 10kph(5MPH). Do not come to a complete stop.
4. Drive for approx 5 minutes with minimal brake use to allow them to cool slightly.
5. Do another 15-20 brake applications, this time from 100kph(60MPH) to 10kph(5MPH). Do not come to a complete stop.
6. Drive for at least 15 minutes with minimal brake use to allow the brakes to cool.
7. Park the car and allow the brakes to cool to ambient.
8. The pads should now be ready for use.
Notes:Always carry out a visual inspection of the brakes after they have cooled. Make sure the rotor face is in contact with the pads and no signs of glazing are present. If unsure of bedding result, re-do them.
================================================== ====
ABOVE IS FROM PROJECT MU - Edited ( 5/20/23 )
================================================== ====
Last edited by Xcalibur; 05-20-2013 at 10:15 PM. Reason: These are the Project Mu bed-in process instructions
05-19-2013, 03:59 AM
#4
Administrator
Are these for the Akebono Calipers or do you have an aftermarket BBK?
05-20-2013, 10:03 PM
#5
I have the Standard Sport Brakes Sam with Stop Tech Rotors. I got the Project Mu NS400 pads to go with it and am happy with the setup except the right rear paint came off the StopTech rotor where the pad doesn't touch, just flaked off like 5 miles in, but since I'm painting my calipers currently I'll repaint the rotors centers as well as the rusty axle ends.
I got the info sent by email from Project MU, I edited my info above and added there info. Thanks anyways!
I got the info sent by email from Project MU, I edited my info above and added there info. Thanks anyways!
Last edited by Xcalibur; 05-20-2013 at 10:10 PM.
05-21-2013, 11:47 AM
#6
OMFG!!! The StopTech Rotors Suck A$$!!!! after it rained last night, they look 2 times worst than the stocks since every drilled hole and slot has serious rust!!!! I'm going to write a review about these rotors in the coming days. This is one of the worst coatings I've ever seen for protection!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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05-26-2013, 10:49 AM
#8
OMFG!!! The StopTech Rotors Suck A$$!!!! after it rained last night, they look 2 times worst than the stocks since every drilled hole and slot has serious rust!!!! I'm going to write a review about these rotors in the coming days. This is one of the worst coatings I've ever seen for protection!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Here's what you do to get rid of it: Drive, then brake a little. Boom! Rust gone.
It's just surface rust, it won't affect the performance and is completely normal.
As ash said, other than cosmetic appearance.....it's fine.
**edit*** not EVERY rotor will rust. Ceramic rotors wont rust, but unless you wanna spend like $6k on rotors....... Ceramics are mostly seen on super cars like Ferrari, Lamborghini, etc.
Ceramic rotor below on Ferrari.
Last edited by Rad_Slinger; 05-26-2013 at 10:55 AM.
05-17-2015, 09:02 PM
#9
Chill out man. Every rotor will rust to a certain extent. Even the nickel plated ones will rust after a while. It happens.
Here's what you do to get rid of it: Drive, then brake a little. Boom! Rust gone.
It's just surface rust, it won't affect the performance and is completely normal.
As ash said, other than cosmetic appearance.....it's fine.
**edit*** not EVERY rotor will rust. Ceramic rotors wont rust, but unless you wanna spend like $6k on rotors....... Ceramics are mostly seen on super cars like Ferrari, Lamborghini, etc.
Ceramic rotor below on Ferrari.
Here's what you do to get rid of it: Drive, then brake a little. Boom! Rust gone.
It's just surface rust, it won't affect the performance and is completely normal.
As ash said, other than cosmetic appearance.....it's fine.
**edit*** not EVERY rotor will rust. Ceramic rotors wont rust, but unless you wanna spend like $6k on rotors....... Ceramics are mostly seen on super cars like Ferrari, Lamborghini, etc.
Ceramic rotor below on Ferrari.
You both didn't read what I said! I'm not an idiot! I'm talking about sections the pads don't touch have rust where paint should be. Been doing this for 35 years and these are great rotors with one of the worst single stage paint jobs I've seen due to bad prep. Also they didn't paint the drilled holes or the sweeper slots like most companies do. NEXT TIME READ THE POST CAREFULLY!!!
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